SQUIB ROD Reviews & Ratings

Very easy to use. Everyone should have one. Three hits with a hammer and the squid round fell out. No cons.

Helping at various shooting events where reloaded ammo is allowed they have been very handy.

These fit and work well. You need one of these in your tools and range bag.

I purchased this set a little while back. I have had 2 squibs(1-45, 1-40) since and they were factory loads. No tool box should be without them. They work PERFECT, easy to use, already paid for itself. THANKS!

I use the Brownell's Squibb Rod Kit often in my duties as a range safety officer to clear bore obstructions and to dislodge stuck cases. A bullet stuck in the bore, caused by inadvertently loading and attempting to fire a round with primer-only and no powder can be a serious hazard if not properly handled. A few drops of Kroil down the bore quickly reduce adhesion of a stuck jacketed bullet with the bore. The appropriate size squibb rod and adapter are threaded onto the Dewey cleaning rod and the obstruction tapped out the breech by multiple light taps of the rod only. No hammer is needed. Occasionally you experience a stuck case in an AR which cannot be removed by pulling the charging handle. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, and the breech cover open, place the squibb rod against the bolt carrier and rap with a mallet to drive the bolt carrier to the rear, unlocking the bolt so that the jammed round or case can be removed safely. A bullet-in-bore malfunction in a revolver often jams the cylinder, so that it cannnot be opened. A wrap with the squibb rod quickly and easily drives the stuck bullet back into the cylinder, clear of the forcing cone, so that the range can be declared clear. To determine the proper size of cast bullet to load in an antique military or cowboy rifle it is necesssary to upset a throat "slug" to measure the diameter of the forcing cone ahead of the chamber. This is done by filling a sized case up to its mouth with molten lead from the casting pot, then filing the lead flush. Chamber an inch long piece of bore-diameter, soft, pure-lead wire in from of the lead-filled case, and use the Brownell squibb rod to upset the slug so that it conforms to the forcing cone and throat. Knock out the upset slug with a fired case from your rifle to send to the mold maker.

Got out my progressive press after a few years and loaded up some wadcutters. Went out to the range to test them. After a few rounds, my gun locked up. I could see a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the forcing cone. Took the gun home and got out my squib rod kit. Followed the directions, took out the mainspring and hammer. I measured the the squib rod in the barrel and them tapped it with a plastic hammer. A few taps later, the cylinder opened and I was able to remove the cartridge and bullet. It appears there was no powder, just a primer in this one; a hazard of using a progressive. Saved me a trip to the gunsmith. If you shoot more than one caliber, buy the whole kit. "Be prepared."

This is the third set of .40 squib rods that will not work. They will just fit down a Glock barrel but will not fit down a .40 S&W M/P barrel (tried it in multiple different pistols). If you really want them, plan on turning them down yourself to a diameter that works in your pistol.

I returned a set that were too big to go down the barrel with a comment on the appropriate diameter. The replacement set is also too big. In order to fit easily down the barrel they should be .385, plus or minus. .389 is apparently the absolute max diameter to fit inside the rifling. The first set was .392. The second set was .390. Somebody's tolerances are not being checked.

It is too tight and can't fit any of my 40SW STI barrels.