GUN-KOTE™ OVEN CURE, GUN FINISH Reviews & Ratings

Brownell's Gun-Kote is my go to for a DIY finish that is economical, easy to apply, tough, permanent, can be layered, works on polymers/plastics & looks great when done. I've been on a Camo kick lately & Gun-Kote is perfect for the job. You will have the best results if you have a blast cabinet & airbrush. No need to thin or strain. Alwats shake, shake, shake until you are sick of shaking then shake some more. I've found matte black covers everything really well with one coat, very rarely will two coats be required. OD Green on the other hand is not my choice for a base coat. It works fine on blasted bare metal with a minimum of two coats but on plastics, like Magpul stocks, test first. I found two 16oz cans of discontinued Brownell's Liquid Moly Gray that worked great for the base coat on a black Magpul stock. After curing sprayed with OD Green, cured again & it looks great. On a Magpul PRS in Desert Sand two coats of OD Green covered completely & looks great. You can completely cure the base color, apply a second color, cure it, add a third, cure it & it works perfectly. IOW, unlike Cerakote, Gun-Kote will stick to itself after curing. I have one oven, I've had no issues. I usually blast with glass beads, never has Gun-Kote flaked or failed in any way for me.

I cleaned the part with CRC break cleaner, heated it up to hot to touch, sprayed 2 coats, DO NOT hold the sprayer to close, yes about 16 in away, baked it in over at 325, for 1 hr, came out perfect,,, no problem,

Works well with an airbrush. Two coats products a smooth,shiny surface.

Looks great color is very much like bluing!

First off you use an airbrush to apply this stuff and not an HVLP. Second you don't let it hang in a room with the air conditioning on. If you actually read how to apply it, it tells you to not apply it when the room temperature is below a certain degree. It also doesn't make a single difference on the distance it is applied. if that was the case then people would have matte and glossy camo jobs from the different distances they hold stencils when spraying, which they don't. It also flash dries once it is applied and the reason for it being tacky is probably because you put it on without heating the part first and kept on throwing coats on your product. Try using a heat gun like you are supposed to. After spraying down your project, let it sit for 30 minutes and then bake it for 1 hour at 300 to 325 degrees. Once it is completely cooled down to room temperature then it should be good to go.

I cleaned and blasted the surface of several AR parts that had wear on them and baked the parts like the label says. May be too glossy but very hard and scratch resistant. Other colors in matte worked the same and don't reflect as much but are just as hard.

I used this product to coat both a Remington 870 and a Century Arms Golani. The product was easy to handle, covered evenly with minimal drips or splattering. It dries within a few minutes, but must be cured in an oven, so if there were any mistakes, I could have simply removed them with acetone. Unlike other finishes, you do not have to mix two separate components before painting, so any unused product can be poured back into the jar, which is nice.

I am a first time user of bake on finishes, that said, my first attempt went flawless! I have a Winchester 1300 defender that needed a new barrel, I found a new factory SS marine variant on the net and bought it, the rest of the gun is matte blue. Since the new part was factory glass beaded stainless, all that was required was a degrease with acetone, heating, and coating with the Gun Kote. I read other comments here about the "sheen" so I did around 4 light passes with the airbrush around 8~10 inches away from the surface to try and achieve a very flat matte. I got exactly that, it feels like 600 grit emory, which is exactly what I was wanting. I liked it so much I used the Gun Kote on all of the rest of the steel on the shotgun, and it all matches perfectly. I have seen no evidence of chipping, peeling, etc, time will tell. I did not blast the other steel, I am curious as to how the adhesion will hold up over the matte blue factory finish. NOTE, I did this in a regular kitchen oven, DO use a second (or third) thermometer to check the oven's temp. Mine turned out to be almost 40 degrees off (hot). I used one of those hand held IR units, about evey 10 minutes or so I would crack open the door and shoot temp on my other regular baking thermometer that was sitting on the shelf, it was also way off... Go digital! Cracking the door to check temp didn't seem to have caused any problems.

Never used an oven baked finish before. I was a Duracoat guy. Not anymore. Prep it right and you'll get amazing results. Yes, you can blast with very fine play sand if you want a matte finish. It does a nice job and the coating doesn't change the texture. Gives you a nice finish on stainless. If I didn't want it matte I would probably use the 180 AO. Also watch the K-Phos if you decide to use it. Any runs or imperfections you have will still be there when you a ready to bake. Ask me how I know that!! The only con I can come up with is now all my gun buddies want me to do some work on their guns!! Only time will tell if it wears well.

I decided to test this product before using it on my project. I prepped a piece of scrap steel plate, no sanding, just acetone for prep, preheated, gave it 2 coats, then into the over for an hour. After it cooled I oiled it up. I went over it lightly with a screwdriver to simulate the kind of accidental tapping that might take place in a gun bag or bumping with a mag. Then I dropped a socket on it from one foot up. These items did not do anything to the finish so I took a hammer to it. This abuse produced no chips, no mars, no nothing. The only way I could scratch it was to scrape on it with a sharp object. This also scratched the metal itself. Follow the instructions on the can, use a good air brush, and remember that any scratches in the bare material are going to come through the finish. It will build if you want a flat dry coat type finish. I did not try to build, dry, and wet coat, but it might work. Follow the instructions on the can. You will get amazing results!