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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Poor Quality

I have tried three cans of the matte black and cannot even complete one project. Parts were thoroughly prepped, degreased and wiped twice with acetone. Paint heated with heating pad and thoroughly shaken. Parts were heated to 100 degrees in an oven. Application from all three cans was disappointing with frequent spitting of paint. I have completely redone twice and have mess on my hands. Also tried the OD which works fairly well. The matte black is the worst paint that I have ever tried to spray. If you are going to sell the matte black then please improve the quality of the product and the application. Would not mind paying a little more for it if it were any good!!!!!!!

by Ron on November 26, 2015

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not durable

I purchased extra nozzles, sandblasted and brakecleaned parts let sit in hot sun and was expecting the worst so didn't have many issues with application. I was disappointed when a week later minor handling was damaging paint. Long story short my ak project is finished but five weeks after application I can still make an x in paint with my thumbnail. When hot after shooting paint on gastube isn't any harder than wax. My biggest supprise is anybody gives it good reviews. I paint things all the time with spray paint, sometimes with no prep at all and it always at least dries

Snake oil

This is the first time that Brownells has sold me a bad product. I bought 4 cans of this stuff, and it was a waste of money and time. I tried to use this product on raw 80% Lowers. I cleaned with Simple Green, Mineral Spirits, baked them in the oven, etc., and then buffed the lowers with 600 grit paper before going through the cleaning & heating process again. I wore gloves, and went way over board with prep. I did one (1) lower at a time, heating them with a heat gun. The spray went on well, and it looked good. The black looked more like a parkerized. finish. Kind of burnt looking. After drying in my shop for the first day, I moved my lowers outside in the sun everyday for two weeks. I live in a very dry, super hot area, so I have no doubt that the lowers were baked in the August Sun. When it came time to install the parts, the upper & lower would not pin. The paint was too thick on the top of the lower (where the upper and lower make contact). I attempted to "sand" the top of the lower, but this "paint" is more like a sticky gum that does not like to be sanded. It turned into a sticky, tar like mess. Similar to a truck bed liner spray. Also, at the pivort pin area, the stuff just pealed off like a bad sun burn. Similar issues in the selector area, and the mag catch. It was a mess. I had to remove paint from these aras to get the parts to work. Looked really bad. The stuff is more like a thick, rubber coating that never dries. On the up-side, a can of "Aircraft Remover" removed the stuff in two two (2) applications. I tried again, and attempted to apply thinner coats. Same result. The stuff is just too thick from a can! Perhaps it can be thinned, and used in an airbrush, but I don't have that type of gear. The take-away here is the might stuff might work for some applications, but I would not suggest using it on an 80% Lower.

Extremely disappointed

Heed the reports of everyone complaining about how quickly this stuff clogs up! I also rolled the dice and gave this product a try. While the finish itself may be okay, the fact that the nozzle clogged up 4 times during the first coat on my AR-15 barrel tells me that this is NOT a product you want to gamble with if you have an expensive piece. I will not likely be buying any more Aluma-Hyde II products, and I have already requested a refund from Brownells for this can of junk.

Aluma hyde

Got about 3 presses on the nozzle and it plugged! You better buy the blow out nozzles because your going to need them. But soon as you put regular nozzle back on it immediately plugs up! Don't waste your money. Brownells offered to refund everything but its more effort to me than it worth. Brownells as a company is tops but this paints not worth it.

GARBAGE

I can't understand how anyone gives this garbage a positive review. I ordered a can, immediately had clogging issues despite shaking it up. Ruined the finish on a gun and I had to sandblast and redo it (I parkerized it instead). Decided I maybe hadn't shaken it up enough, so I bought another can to try on a different rifle. Shook it up for around 10 minutes solid. Just sat there watching TV shaking it. Tried it out on some cardboard until I thought it was going good. Started on the rifle, halfway through - clogs and begins spraying out chunks that stuck to the rifle barrel. I was shaking it the entire time I used it as well. I essentially have now RUINED the finishes on two separate projects that I have to re-sandblast and re-do, costing hours of labor not even mentioning the 30 bucks for the cans. Do yourself a favor, use Gunkote instead. It actually works.

Unreliable nozzle

I bought 4 cans of matte black and 3 out of the 4 had serious issues with the nozzle. They either wouldn't spray or would spit paint in globs, giving an uneven, runny finish. The paint itself is great, but the nozzle/flow system is terrible.

Never again.

I used my first can of Aluma-Hyde II weeks ago to refinish an old rifle. I followed the instructions for use.. shook the can for probably 5 minutes before trying to apply. The nozzle on the can clogged often, making for drips and uneven spray patterns, and then eventually broke completely. I ordered a second can last week to try to finish the restoration project but was disappointed when this can also spurted out uneven chunks and eventually started spewing out of the top of the can. The material itself seems durable enough though after drying in front of a fan for about a week.

Not Bad. When the Nozzle Works.

The product clogs in the nozzle, even though it was shaken for a full 10 minutes prior to application. I got half way through refinishing a rifle and then it just stopped spraying. I cleaned the nozzle with Gumout spray carb cleaner and the nozzle began working for another 20 seconds. It screwed up my entire project and now I have to strip this fecal matter off and find another coating. I think I'll try Krylon spray paint. At least that sprays when I push the nozzle.

Don't waste your money

Used as directed, didn't even get one coat before the nozzle clogged up. Had to keep cleaning the nozzle with a needle then after 2 coats the can clogged completely.