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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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OD Green

Always had a love/hate relationship with Alumahyde. Have used it over past 20 years. It's always a 50/50 gamble when you order it as to whether you'll get a good batch of it that will properly spray or you'll get a clog-o-matic. Gambled this time and lost. Prewarmed the spray can and did all necessary vodoo rituals. Shook it for a minimum of 5 minutes. Heck, even shook it while spraying. Got the splatter finish, which took additional coats to somewhat smooth out. This as I refinished an HK stock set, which was not cheap. I do not know why quality control is so poor when producing this product. Especially when this problem has existed since it's inception. Better yet, instead of making profit for extra replacement nozzles, how about including them with the product.

Loses aerosol

Used on some grips and planned to use it to paint a stock went to use it the aerosol was gone had no propellant at all can is almost totally full of paint

Not Matte

Not matte, way too shiny. Waste of time and good money.

Not even CLOSE to Coyote

"Coyote" Aluma Hyde is actually a light Sage Green. It will not even remotely match anything tan/earth/coyote/brown/FDE, so dont bother. I can't believe there's no quality control before this stuff gets canned and shipped out.

Color on cap / in can not remotely close

The color on the cap is not even close to matching the color that comes out of the can. The result was a very light khaki tan color. I called and spoke to customer service and was told that they were really sorry, but there was nothing that they could do about it. I've still got 80% of the can left. Like others have stated, save yourself a headache and purchase the extra nozzles. Just take your time, have a lot of patience, use a few light costs. Remember, prep is the key here. But, if your looking for a darker brown, look for something else. This isnt even remotely close to matching the cap.

TIPS ARE JUNK

I watched the video on how to do it properly but on the third coating the tip began to spurt and spit globs. Not sure about the product but the tip last two coats and then began spitting the epoxy. I am very disappointed that Brownell's would use such a TERRIBLE tip. Thought it was a company that made sure the products were of quality and this lasted nothing at all. I am not happy.

Worst coating I've ever used!

This is the worst coating I have ever used. I waited the full time to cure as recomended by both the directions on the can and the brownells channel video: https://youtu.be/b8oCh_all-Q . Still putting pins in place for normal functioning and re-assembly caused the coating to flake horribly. Never purchasing this again.

Don't Use The Supplied Nozzle!!!!

Might as well ship it without any nozzle. Guaranteed to clog within a minute. Shake the can until you are blue in the face but it will clog and spit drops on your work. They have had plenty of time to spec a better nozzle but haven't. I have been using this product for years and it holds up fantastic. Buy spare nozzles, good ones. Tired of the same stuff.

Splotchy, blotchy product, poor nozzle

Tried two different cans of Matte Black inside a paint booth with 80 degree ambient temperature. The nozzle clogs after three or four shots requiring constant clearing in acetone and compressed air. The product comes out thickly and tosses blobs and splatters on the surface to be coated. Complete waste of time, had to strip and bead blast then used Duracoat instead. Do yourself a favor and go with Duracoat from the start.

Really?

I purchased a can of this to refinish a rifle. I made it through the butt plate and muzzle device barely. Then the nozzle clogged up causing the paint to splatter thus causing me to strip the finish yet again, and long term leading me to duracoat my rifle instead. Alumahyde finish is terrible compared to duracoat.