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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Aluma_Hyde II

Received the can of Aluma-Hyde on 7/5/2019. Noticed the expiration date on the can was 06/19. Got all my parts ready to paint, then shook the can for about 5 minutes. When I removed the cap, there was no spray nozzle (Tip). Got tip off another can of paint that I had. Evidently, the hole in this tip was not the right size. I made a spotted mess. I've gotten good products and service in the past from Brownells, but I would not recommend Aluma-Hyde. Order# 114-7747546-4580234

Paint color does not match cap color

The color shown on the cap of the FDE spray paint is not even close to the color of the paint in the can (see attached photo). I was looking for something close to the tan shown in the advertisement. Which is the true FDE? Brownells needs to change either the cap or the paint.

OD Green, not Gray

Finish came out OD green, not dark gray.

Wack

Can nozzle was spluttering, no fine mist, but it dried cohesively and the texture didn't end up being too bad. The color does NOT match dark park at all, very disappointing and I shook the can for a very long time to get the ball moving freely. I had an old colt M16 kit and used a new lower receiver that was closer to black. Hit it with AHII and it was at least 2-3 shades lighter than the Colt upper and has a green hue to it.... Unimpressed.

Not recommended

I have been in the finishing industry for many years. With that said I am very experienced at not only paint application, but formulation and chemistry as well. This has to be some of the worst paint I have ever used. It does not flow out at all. Orange peels and solvent pops something horrible... the spray nozzle applies way too much paint to be usable on small parts. It's virtually impossible to get a light even smooth coat. I was coating an aluminum receiver from a cheap 22 that had been properly stripped, glass bead blasted and cleaned. I stripped this paint off a total of 3 times before giving up on it. Will spend the extra coin for Cerakote. I do not recommend it be used on anything metal. It may work fine for synthetic stocks etc. but horrible on metal.

Not even close to the right color

I'd hoped the Dark Parkerizing Gray would be a close match to my USGI M16A1 upper receiver. I sprayed it on my expensive NoDak Spud A1 cut and custom engraved 80% lower I milled out. This color couldn't have been more OD green. I don't know if the can was mislabeled or the paint was bad. But either way I'm stuck with a hardened epoxy A1 clone in the WRONG color. This $12 can ruined basically $250 worth of lower receiver (for aesthetic purposes). Very upset with this product. Not even close to the color described.

Takes forever to Dry!!!

This was My First Time Using Aluma Hyde II, I applied it to a Properly De Greased and Cleaned Galil ARM Mag and after 2 coats within 5 minutes of each other it still isnt Dry!!! Like 2 Hours Later... Minutes to dry to the touch My Butt!!! SMH... Mind You its 105 degrees out here today so Usually stuff dries pretty quick..

Garbage product.

Dont waste your time on this product, youd be better served with a parkerizing kit. I prepped my pistol by taking all the way down to metal. Baked it to get all the oil out. Waited for a warm day to spray it, degreased the pistol yet again. Warmed the can and shook it vigorously for about ten minutes. Went to do a test spray and the first thing to come out was a paste. After clearing that out and cleaning the tip I conducted yet another test spray. The paint came out clumped. I figured it clear out after it flashed so I applied the first coat. After it flashed it still looked like garbage. I applied two more coats and no matter how far or close I got it came out looking like garbage. The nozzle clogged half way through the third coat. Stay away from this garbage and get a parkerizing kit. Those are labor intensive and take a bit longer however you only have to do it once. Now I have to take my pistol all the way back down and start over again. If brownells wants to give me a refund the order number is 1471071500, Id gladly send you back whats left.

Earth Brown is not Brown

This paint is not brown and not even close to it. It is magpul FDE which is a mixture of green and tan. If you are looking for a brown coating, look elsewhere!

Complete Garbage!

I only bought this stuff because they were out of spray PTFE/MOLYCOAT. This junk spit and spewed chunks all over my rifle ruining many hours of prep work. I followed all the directions to the letter and it made no difference.It looked like I was spraying a textured ceiling. It took about 2 hours, 20 rags, and about 50 cotton swabs to clean the mess off. Never again! If there was a negative star rating I would have selected that!