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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Very disappointed

I sandblasted and degreased my handguard the same way I would for Cerakote and ended up with a glossy bumpy mess that looks like roll-on bedliner. Now I have to sandblast this garbage off so I can apply something else. What a waste of my time and money.

by Justin on November 10, 2023

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Rough finish

Despite following all the instructions and shaking the can very throughly, the can repeatedly started throwing globs of paint. The first attemp was so bad that I had to strip it off. The second attempt was better, but still wound up looking like bed liner. I think I can sand the worst of it once it cures, but it’s never going to look Krylon would have been a better choice.

by DAMIAN S. on October 29, 2023

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Don’t bother

Not as durable as Cerakote. Save yourself the headache and just pay to have it done. The heads clog up fast. Replacement ones they sell don’t fit and sometimes the spray comes out smooth, other times it spits out and ruins whatever you’re doing.

Sometimes it doesn't work...

I've used Alumahyde quite successfully a number of times in the last 20 years. Great finishes that have lasted for decades. I must have gotten a really old can. It would not mix. Thick, ropey discharge, then granular. Then clog. I had i bought a pack of clearing nozzles, usually do, when i bought the Alumahyde, but could never get it to mix after a zillion shakes and tries. Ended up using the can for target practice with an FAL build. Disappointed, but was a fitting end. Be careful before you apply to your work. Sorry, Brownells, but my last can must have rolled under pallet shelves for a few years. I know you can do better. Cheers, Gaspipe

by Crawford on August 29, 2023

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Trash

I've been using this for years and always wonder why because half the cans are dead on arrival and the other half spray like garbage and you can rarely empty a can. The coating is great, but the delivery is trash, so, it's trash. About half the product is thrown away every time. This time it blew out big blobs before the half full can stopped spraying, so now I have to strip my parts again and start over. Don't buy this.

by MW on August 13, 2023

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Bad paint

I have a lower receiver for an AR15. I I had an AR15 lower that was raw. I worked very hard to get the lower to a pristine condition. When it came time to finish it with the Aluma-Hyde II finish that I got from Brownells. I shook the can right side up and down. As I started had to spray it to get all the lumps out and finely started to spray a good pattern but after I started to fully paint the piece it started to spray clumps of paint. I could not get a good finish no mater how hard I tried. The finish came out like the skin on a basketball. I have never had a paint product that has done like this Aluma-Hyde II

Matte Clear is not Matte

I used the Matte Clear as a over cover for a stock project. At the time of purchase (3 weeks ago) it was listed Matte Clear. I see now that it is just listed as clear with the Matte word only in the description. I made sure I watched Caleb's video on how to apply it properly since I have had an issue with Matte Black in the past. I shook the can as directed on the can with what the video in my mind about making sure I got the talc that makes it matte mixed up. I was not able to get it to spray properly with the white nozzle that came on the can. Lucky I ordered the red replacement ones. It sprayed fine with that one. I coated the stock and was pretty disappointed that it came out semi-gloss clear. I briefly ran a heat gun on it to aid in curing once it was dry to touch and waited the 14 day cure period to re-coat it. This time I made and dedicated effort to make sure that I shook the can properly. I shook it every way imaginable for 5-10 minutes. It is a Semi-Gloss finish!

Magpul TAN is NOT Magpul FDE

I just received a can of Magpul Tan instead of Magpul FDE. Contacted CS & I was told that the vendor said the can (whole batch) was mislabeled??? It still is the wrong color. It is NOT FDE. Tan has a greenish hue, seems like an old batch not FDE mislabeled. Lesson learned... As far as the paint goes, blah. For the cost, it is not worth it. I needed the Magpul FDE color - only option available. I will not recommend this product, nor will I ever buy this again.

by Anthony on June 27, 2023

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Horrible Finish

I don't know how durable it is because it hasn't been on long enough, but I spent three days sanding and bead blasting an expensive item only to ruin the finish with this product. As other reviews have mentioned (I should've listened), the spray tip and aerosol can is inconsistent, despite shaking well and perfect temperature. Cheap nozzle threw droplets instead of a nice, smooth finish. Ruined a nice item that I had 20 hours of paint prep into. Will never again use this product out of an aerosol can.

Worst Finish I've Seen

I'll save $8 a can by going yo Wal-Mart next time. Waited a full 24hrs to apply a second coat and it spider-webbed up as soon as I started spraying. It peeled like a diseased foot soon after. All directions followed, DON'T BUY.

by Joseph N. on May 22, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 12