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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

Customer Photos & Videos

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Spray can will it work and no response from Customer Service..

I have purchased a CNA of Wolf Grey (the best color) and had no issues using it on an AR pistol build. I wanted to try this color out, but the can would not spray even after warming and trying other known working nozzles. I reached out to customer service for resolution and received no response. I expected more from Brownells

by JAKE L. on January 16, 2026

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Bad, NOT Coyote

Order says Coyote, can says Coyote, but when i put what i sprayed next to something Coyote, it definitely aint Coyote. So incredibly disappointing. Disnt catch it in time. Even if I did and tested better, if you havebto test something it means you dont trust them. I definitely wont trust this product or Brownells again. On a positive note this is a better FDE than the alumahyde i used on another rifle. Its more than hit and miss with this product, its more miss than hit. (In pic: sprayed scope, stock is B5 coyote)

by Joshua on November 01, 2025

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Spatters huge droplets no matter how you use it... Nope!

Tons of experience w/ Duracoat and never has such a disaster. Tried several methods and followed directions to the T but this still spattered big drops all over a brand new upper no matter how slow/light I tried to go. Took ~1hr cleaning it (mostly) off with solvent. That upper will end up looking worse than a Krylon. Never again.

by steve b. on April 10, 2025

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Unreliable spray process, orange peel finish, expensive. Can't recommend this product

I've used two consecutive cans of matte black Aluma-Hyde II recently on some small rifle parts, for which the spray pattern/quality was only acceptable for about half or less of the can's content (acceptable only if you don't mind an orange peel finish). At that point, the spray pattern became weak and sputtering, and finally stopped altogether. I immediately used a cleanout nozzle (2 good long blasts) and changed to a brand-new replacement painting nozzle, but the cans still would not spray. This is despite following Brownell's product directions to the letter. This is very disappointing performance, not to mention that much of my prep work went to waste, and the cost is $20 plus shipping per can. I can't recommend this product. I have one more can left, and I hope it works better. After that, I'll just use home-center rattle can epoxy paint.

by GH on March 19, 2025

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Was this review helpful? 3

Going back to Dura coat

I was restoring an old gun and removed all the old bluing and rust. I used a really good brand of cleaner-degreaser. The paint puddled on the metal and glumped. I followed the instructions to a T. There was not, one smooth coat of paint on the barrel or receiver. I should have asked for a refund, but I bought it back some time ago, as I was working on other jobs that came in before this one. Dura coat is definitely my choice from now on. Yes, my shop is very well heated, so that was not the issue, plus I shook the death out of the can. I'm not a rookie!! very disapointed.

Bad Paint

Paint sprayed out in streams and is not usable. Old

by ANTHONY D. on January 23, 2025

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Was this review helpful? 4

trash

this is the third time using this product. I am a gunsmith with almost 30 years on the bench refinishing firearms. 3 out of 3 times following directions to the letter and all I get is black garbage out of the can ,sprays like undercoating instead of a firearm finish. I spray all current finishes and have excellent results. But everytime I give this canned tar a try all I get is a reprep job.

by Bill C. on October 31, 2024

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Why is Coyote Brown not even close

Let me begin by saying that there is accountability from my end to be had. One of the 2 photos depicting Coyote Brown is beside a magazine that it presumably painted and shows how light the color really is. I can accept that if I looked a bit harder, I should’ve know that this was not the product for me. Thats where my accountability ends. The primary photo that the site defaults to when searching up the color shows a can that is way darker. Perhaps the lighting was off when they took the two photos? More importantly, the default photo is *way* closer to the commonly expected color of what we all think when we imagine of coyote brown. A darker, vibrant orangish hue. AR-670-1 boots are coyote brown. The issued SOPMOD B5 stocks are coyote brown. Issued Marine gear is coyote brown. They may not all be the same shade, but they are all characterized by those same 3 things I listed. Brownells seems to think that a khaki that is just another attempt at trying to get Magpul’s FDE is coyote brown. Why did you guys do this. Why did you make yet another khaki color. Coyote brown is not khaki. FDE is khaki. Why were the two cans listed on the photos taken in such different lighting? Do better

by Jun K. on September 04, 2024

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Alumahyde terrible results !

I have used many finishing products in my career and found the Alumahyde to be the worst ever. The spray splattered and ruined my project. I'm going to have to bead blast it off. Yes I followed the directions exactly.

by Mike on August 16, 2024

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Came Out Dry and Too Much Overspray

I previously used the Dark Earth and Coyote colors and had great experiences with the application and durability. However, I purchased the OD Green color recently and it was a horrible experience. After shaking the can for 15 minutes I tested the spray on my cardboard backdrop and it was a lot of dry spray (where there is too much air and not enough paint). I started to apply the finish to the three PMAGS that I wanted to cover and the finish was way too thin. Even after shaking the can every 30 seconds to continue to mix the paint it still was way too much dry spray. After about five minutes the can was almost empty and the mags were barely coated. For comparison, the Dark Earth AH2 can that I used months ago has covered about a dozen magazines and is still about half full. I still have enough to use it on future products. The final icing on my horrible experience cake was that as I looked down I was completely covered with dry OD Green dust and so was the plastic drop that I covered my garage floor with. But whatever was not covered by plastic was now covered in this OD Green film. So I'm just hoping to get my money back for this one can because the other cans I have have worked fine and continue to cover a lot of work pieces.

by Steven on July 17, 2024

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