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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Easy application, durable, NOT A MATCH!

Very easy application, did not have a single nozzle problem or spattering that others spoke of. The finish seems durable and smooth, but thats where it ended for me. I built and AeroPrecision FDE with Magpul FDE Furniture. This is not even remotely close to matching any of that! It is a very light tan/grey. I warmed up the can and hand guard before spraying, and also sprayed it cold with no luck. Let it dry naturally and oven cured it on separate occasions and get the same color every time. Don't waste your money trying to match it to any FDE on the market. Don't have a pic of my gun but here is one of a magazine for comparison (left one is standard magpul, right is the aluma hyde FDE). This pic even makes it look more tan than it is, trust me it is nearly light grey in some lights.

Not very good finish

Having been in the auto body trade most of my life I figured I could handle a rattle can. Followed the instructions and the finish came out terrible. I even used the clean out nozzle prior to spraying the receiver and there is hundreds or tiny solvent looking dots. Re shook can the next day and sprayed two sacrificial pieces and the same thing again. The sheen is perfect but the solventy finish is not acceptable. I would not recommend this can. I do not have any experience with the other sheens or colors. The tiny dots almost appear to be debris but it is not. same finish when applied outside and inside.

NOT MAGPUL FDE

2 stars. This does not match Magpul FDE. As far as spray paint, I had no trouble. My main complaint is that is isn't even a close match. Its a glossy desert tan.

NOT COYOTE

This does not match any known coyote to me. it doesn't match Blackhawk coyote, Troy coyote, or B5 coyote. It is a matte tan. Spray paint is one item that is not returnable to Brownells. As far as spray paint its fine. I had no problems in that regard, only the color.

Use With Caution

Decided to try my luck. The end finish is okay, but the multiple reviews complaining of clogged nozzles are accurate. I very thoroughly mixed the paint, sprayed a test piece, and within less than a minute started painting the workpiece. The nozzle completely clogged almost immediately, right in the middle of the first pass. I wiped the nozzle off and luckily got it cleared in time to finish the base coat, but it was dicey. I'd say it might be okay for small area coverage and definitely recommend completing your work in one shot if possible. I wouldn't trust this product at all for large area coverage or multiple coats. Hold the can upside down and clear the nozzle thoroughly after spraying any amount. Still, use at your own risk if you want a blemish free finish, and it's definitely not a gunsmith grade product. Never had any other rattle-can paint gum up so quickly.

OD aluma-hyde

Brownells really needs to invest in a better aerosol system. I order a few different colors, the product itself is descent but my can of OD came with either a malfunctioning can, and a clogged nozzle or the combination of both. The other cans worked just fine, just so happens the OD was actually what I needed for my project. A little dissatisfied.

Better Watch Out

Followed Instructions exactly, heated paint, heated weapon, shook for several minuets, ball went around the bottom of the can per instructions, weapon was absolutely clean. The can started to spatter after about 10 seconds causing a poor finish, cleaned nozzle with thinner, started to spray and the can spattered again after several minutes of shaking again. Finally finished job with plans to refinish. Put gun in 90 degree oven after 24 hours, put gun in the sun per instructions. This is the part to watch out for: If you put the firearm on any surface the paint will creep and duplicate the surface even after two (2) days of curing. I would suggest that the firearm be hung until the paint cures before the finish is allowed to touch any surface. In general I was not happy with the product and would again say, Watch Out if you use the product.

Nothing like a TAN

Product is all it's cracked up to be, minus the color. It's more of a green/gray. Nothing near a TAN or FDE. Based on the color name. I would not recommend this to anyone looking for an FDE color.

Magpul FDE? Uh, not!

Should be called GDT. Glossy Dark Tan. Almost FDE but not quite right. Doesn't match my Magpul furniture. The worse part is that it's somewhere between full blown gloss and semi-gloss. I painted a mil spec stock and it covered well, looks like it's going to be durable but, it's glossy and looks completely out of place on the rifle. I thought maybe as it cured it would flatten out a bit but all it's done after two day is get shinier. What's with that? I can deal with the slightly off color but gloss I can't deal with. Tomorrow I'll use some ScotchBrite lightly on it to see if it will dull out. If not I'll put another coat on from two feet away and see if it makes a difference. Maybe a rougher surface will make it appear flat like the name implies it should be.

This can sage green

Uhhh this can sage green not coyote. Been using this stuff for years