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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Definitely not Magpul FDE

Goes on easy and the instructions are clear. I should have listened to my eyes and take notice to the cap. This color is absolutely not Magpul FDE. It is too light. The only paint that seems to match Magpul FDE is from Cerakote or Duracote. This "Magpul FDE" is ok if you don't have anything to match with actual Magpul FDE.

Durable but doesn't match

This paint seems to be durable, but the dark brown does not match the cap at all. It is like 5 shades lighter than what the cap is. Useless to me now.

Reccomended for safe queens

This coating is superb for your safe queen. If you plan on admiring your firearm from afar, this coating is perfect for you. If you actually oil and use your firearm, this coating will dissapoint you. Krylon is similar, except you have more color options and it's about 3x cheaper.

Pain to use, wouldn't buy again.

Bought to repaint a magnesium lower and a few other parts off another gun, bought extra tips as I read it can plug up easily. Followed the directions exactly but this is a poor performing product. When its coming out, it will randomly sputter and send globs of paint on to your part, making it look like truck bed liner spray. You'll typically get a 5-10 seconds of clean spraying before it sputters, which then you basically have to paint nothing until it clears up again. Fortunately if it does that you can wash it off with acetone before it cures so you can start all over again. Took me about 3 times on the lower, and on a rail it messed it up about 3 times before I just gave up and used regular paint. Once its on and cured, it seems to be tougher than regular paint, but not by much. If you can paint the part in 5 or so seconds, it can work well, as on the smaller parts. Anything large and your gonna have a bad time.

Like spraying molasses

Bought this to use on lower parts kit in an attempt to save time. I am pretty good with Moly Resin but this seemed like a decent alternative. I was wrong. This is extremely thick and goes on like the old white school glue that rhymes with Felmers. I feel pretty confident that the tolerances for my lower parts kit will be way off thus rendering the parts useless or requiring sanding, scraping or media blasting to get them to fit. By attempting to save time I cost myself much more time in the long run.

Far from my favorite

Almost every part I've done with this stuff I've had to re-do. Either it doesn't coat well or has minor defects resulting in the need to strip and do again. Even after baking to speed cure you need to be careful with many chemicals to avoid damage. No where near as good as the old baking lacquer.

matte black?

the last can of matte black I used did not go on like it should, the first pass was spotty and started to show buildup on the parts right away and the spray tip clogged up very fast. cleaned everything up and gave it another try and got a high gloss black spotty finish, not the matte black I was looking for never had trouble with Aluma-Hyde before must have got a bad can.

Not gray

Bought this in hopes of coating a "retro H&R" lower that I milled out over the winter. Sprayed it on. The color was closer to WWII Garand green than gray. Disappointed to say the least.

Perhaps a 'bad' can...

...followed each and every direction to the letter: prepped properly, pre-heated, shake the death out of the can & continued shaking it to death, used plenty of nozzles, etc, etc - should add that work was performed in professional automotive spray booth as to have no particulates in the air; however, the end result is an appearance that looks as if it has some type of "fuzz" mixed in with it. I can live with its appearance as it's uniform across all the parts I did. Although parts are still curing, the only hope I have is that they'll be very durable since everything was prepped correctly. Have always used Duracoat via airbrush and now & then, Duracoat aerosol, both with excellent results. I'm still willing to give the AlumaHyde II another shot as I still have a new can of the FDE waiting around. That stated, I've read many reviews regarding those who swear by AlumaHyde so perhaps this was just bad can / bad mix.

Not a match, light tan/grey!

Mo-usa is correct...alumi-hyde II magpul FDE is not even close...it is a light tan with some grey. Maybe bad batch? I ordered mid January 2018 and painted within a week following all reccomendations...acetone clean, preheat, shake forever, clean out nozzle when done, heat cure at 200 f. Pain worked well and has good finish, but just not a match. Picture shows can cap matches results of California compliant grip, genuine magpul FDE handguard, and Strike Industries AR grip in magpul FDE.