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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Not close to Coyote brown or FE-200

Not even close to real coyote brown or CeraKote FE-200. I bought this hoping it would be at least close to Coyote brown of my issued equipment. But no it's not even close to the federal color swatch sticks either. It's closer to a dark brownish gray with a touch of green hue. Glad I tested this first, even with 6 coats the color improved but still no match. Might be ok if it is the color you want, but it's not the official coyote brown. It did closely match my old USArmy issued plate carrier(obsolete equipment), but that is not coyote brown. Wish I could return it, waist of money. CeraKote FE-200 is the closest I have found. If you can find a photo of the old USArmy issued plate carrier, than you have a good representation of the actual color.

Doesnt match the cap at all

This is a coyote grey leaning towards green/bronze...

Not coyote

I gave it two stars because its a durable finish but it is NOT coyote brown. If I could describe it I would say it was a coyote green.

To shiny

This is not flat paint. I was doing a WWSD build and my ke arms polymer lower was fde so I bought this to make the whole rifle monochromatic. The color match wasnt perfect, but not as bad as some of the other reviews, but after the paint dried (2 full weeks according to the directions) it was shinier than the polymer was before I painted it. I ended up painting the whole thing again with good ol Rustoleum camo paint. If you want a semigloss look it seems like good paint. Not sure you would want that on a rifle though.

It's green

I just wanted to paint the black metal housing that came with my coyote colored Sig Romeo Zero sight to match. This does not match. This is green. Can you please add a better color sample to your listings?

Not recommended.

While using Alumahyde II, the paint began to come out of the nozzle in multi-color globs, and resulted in spotting on my rifle that I painted. The paint also began to glob onto the junction between the nozzle and can during this, which began half way through applying the paint. I watched the application tutorials on Brownell's website, and made sure to shake the can thoroughly for 15 minutes prior to application. I made sure to spray in low humidity and at moderate temperature (85 degrees Fahrenheit). I'm not really sure what went wrong (the nozzle didn't clog, and I was able to spray over the globs, so the finish is usable and looks decent, but is not satisfactory). My two cans of Alumahyde II were ordered last year, so perhaps they've gone bad during that time? Overall, the experience was quite frustrating, and in hindsight I'm wishing I would've gone with something else.

Green, Straight Up OD Green

I gave it 2 stars, because Alumahyde II is a great product. The reason I deleted 3 stars was because of the color. Years ago I bought dark grey parkerizing and ended up with a green M37 shotgun. Again, that was years ago and I read reviews that like it, so I assumed the color formula had changed; been corrected. Now I'm working on a retro AR15 and really wanted a grey parkerized rifle with black furniture (I have original furniture). But, as soon as I shot a coat on the receiver, I realized it's green. My options are to strip it and repaint it or repaint over it, because there is no way I'm waste all the money to get everything perfect and have it be green and black.

Not at all what I was lead to believe.

I received this product under the assumption that it was going to match my Magpul FDE AR build. Wasnt even close to the actual color. Very dissatisfied customer here. Not to mention, I couldnt get ANYONE one the phone to rectify this issue. I would not recommend this to anyone in need of a close match.

This is a Gloss finish, not Semi-Gloss

First off, this particular color has a very bright shiny gloss finish. It is not what I would consider, Semi-Gloss. The color of the cap on the can has a semi-gloss finish, but the cap has considerably less sheen than the actual product when cured. The spray is very thick. For best results, hold the can far away (at least 1 foot but preferably further) from the item you are coating and make several passes until you get full, even coverage. The end result will have a pebbly textured finish to it. The finish will not be smooth. If you spray too close, it will go on too thick and will not cure, and the finish will appear very bumpy and uneven. The biggest problem I have with this product, is that this paint may be solvent resistant, but it is NOT solvent proof by a long shot. I would barely consider it "resistant". After fully curing, the paint will have a hard durable surface. However, getting only a little CLP or gun oil on the paint will cause it to get soft and tacky. Once oils have been absorbed the paint becomes prone to rubbing, peeling or scratching off. This is no alternative to professionally applied spray on finishes like Cerekote or Duracoat. It is merely a step above hardware store spray paint. If you are OK with these limitations, than this is an OK product.

Not Brown

The cap indicates the color to be a darker hue of brown but this is not the case. It is only slightly darker than FDE. Not worth the money it cost and shipping. If you are looking for a darker brown, look elsewhere cause this is not it.