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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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NOT GREEN

alumahyde II is a great thing, i've used several colors from brownells with great success. the BIG problem with this product is it is listed as OD green... it is NOT in anyway OD GREEN in the conventional sense. it was a slight shade off from coyote. it was so similar that in the shade i thought i used the wrong can. using magpul products as a color example, if anything it looks like a mix between foliage and flat dark earth. hope this helps

Aluma-Hyde II Dark Gray

Thought color would be darker, more gunship gray. When it first came out of the can it was a good color. Once it dried it got too light. I've used aluma-hyde for years and love it. This doesn't change that.

Too much whiz and not enough bang

I really like the product itself. However, the color displayed doesn't match the color received. I've spent 13 years in the military. I practically bleed Olive Drab Green, with that said this is not OD green. More of a Gun Metal w/green tones. Good product, terrible color match. Brownell's needs to display the color screen size not the current color tile on their site.

Strong stuff

This stuff is tough, super tough. But it goes on too thick for me. I refinished my 1911 with it and it filled in the engravings on the slide, which is something I am not happy about. The good side is this stuff is extremely durable, so durable in fact that I cannot seem to get it off!! I have been trying sanding, chipping, and the most powerful copper removers I can find and none seem to even budge it. My only complaint is this stuff is too thick.

Good stuff, but a little glossy...

I used this stuff to refinish an AR-15 receiver, and while AHII is a tough-as-nails finish and this particular color is a very close match to Magpul FDE, it came out a little too glossy for me. It doesn't seem as nice and flat as matte black AHII. I'm still a fan of Aluma-Hyde II and wouldn't hesitate to recommend Coyote, that is if you don't mind a sheen to the finish.

Nozzle Clogs make it less than 5 stars

Seems like a tough, durable finish that can be used on many things but the nozzles clog way to often. This can result in splattering and a less than desirable finish. The OD color is a shade dark. Unless I can't bake it (certain plastics, etc) I'll stick to the Brownell's Teflon-Moly Oven Cure Finish from now on.

Even with extensive cleaning a prep this product is temperamental.

Product has peeled up even after extensive de-greasing, cleaning, and light scuffing.

by Brendan R. on August 03, 2026

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Coyote color

I have B5 coyote tan stock and I wanted my rifle accessories to match the same color. I tried it on several items and the color is more sand than coyote brown.

by ADRIAN M. on June 15, 2026

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Not the color I expected

I purchased the dark parkerzing grey. I expected a dark grey to graphite color. What I got after spraying the paint was almost an dark OD green.

by Robert S. on February 14, 2026

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colors not consistent and peels too easily

Given the good reviews of this product I was excited to try it but I am unimpressed. The color of the titanium is much too green and doesn't match phtos. The baked parts do not match the color of the air cured parts (that I cannot bake due to material temp. tolerance) and despite meticulously following instructions (degreasing, even extra brushing/roughing/buffing steps and repeated acetone cleaning plus powder thin coats, following timing, etc.) this paint takes much longer than listed cure times, baking left the coating malleable and then still fails later (fingernail scratch). And before anyone asks, yes, instructions followed to the letter, even stripped and recoated one piece to be certain. I've done coatings on auto parts, hunting bows and other things in the past and been more sucessful. The process has taken a month including curing time and I don't find this product to be even as durable as "anybrand" off the shelf enamels.

by Andrew V. on November 30, 2025

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