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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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great product; easy to use

This is good stuff. I refinished an AR upper, lower, forearm, and ACE Socom buttstock with it. It is called coyote but is close to FDE. Its a little lighter than Danner USMC/ MARPAT Coyote boots. Its also a little lighter than the brownells SOCOM tan magazines-still looks great though. Follow the instructions closely. I lightly bead blasted mine (no sand media in machine) and degreased with TCE (brake cleaner). Dried to touch in 12 hours (AZ June 108 degrees) and I recoated after 48 hours. Caution- the finish is not quite flat. I would describe it as satin. It finished just like the can's cap in the picture above. On the re-coat my buddy recommended "dusting" by moving the can back to apply a slightly uneven finish to reduce the sheen- worked like a charm. Carbine looks awesome and everyone I show it to wants to use it on their firearm. Finish is great-shake the can well, clear the pickup tube after use, and store upside down to keep the p/u tube clear. Thanks Brownell's for another great product!

Looks original

Used this color to refinish an Romanian AKM and it looked like a factory original. Good bond to the sandblasted metal but seems a bit softer than Duracoat. Much easier to apply.

Use with Semi-Gloss color 4 matte effect

People say the matte colors aren't as durable as the semi-gloss and what I did was used semi-gloss black, let it fully cure, then applied layers of clear matte over it for a tougher matte finish. The matte seems to spray better than the semi-gloss. Follow the directions in the video instructions and you'll be fine.

Basically this is a duracoat substitute.

This isn't super easy to use, but shake it well and keep it around 90F. I used a hair dryer and follow the directions in the videos about aplying this. Okay, this liked to glob up and spray an uneven "texture" - little blobs because it's an aerosol. If you are looking for something perfect, use Duracoat but this will suffice if you have to. I used it on a ruger 10|22 reciever and it screwed it up with runs and blobs. I sanded and degreased the reciever and probably didn't have to. Hold the can about a foot-and-a-half away when you spray, and spray on carboard or something first to make sure the globs works themelves out. Make sure the nozzle is clean also. Definately not a professional thing but for something like a beat-up AK, this works fine. This gloss black is supposed to be tougher than the matte so what I did was sprayed this first, let it cure fully, then sprayed matte clear over it and let that cure. I would say this is slightly above average for an aerosol epoxy paint. Hard to find and costs mmore than it's worth to me. Still reccomendable though.

Darkens Color

I just refinished an old 870 in Parker Grey and wanted to put a topcoat on it for some protection. The matte clear darkened it a few shades. Might want to be careful on lighter colors. I actually like the color a little better. Use in a well ventilated area. Stong fumes.

heat up the parts

Great product. One thing I did pre-application was to heat the part with a propane torch by wafting the flames on the metal to warm it up. Then I sprayed the object. Next, I used a space heater placed about 1 ft away from the object and used a digital thermometer placed next to the item to adjust the heat until I had 90 deg F. I left this setup in my garage in the winter time for a 7 days before handling. Do not handle prior to curing. Best on rough surfaces.

Good finish

Decent match to other FDE parts out there. Agreed, get extra nozzles if you aren't going to empty the can in one use. Degrease, warm, spray, dry. Easy, though if it is humid out it'll take a little while longer to dry. Harsh solvents WILL break it down easily though, be careful!

great product

Easy to use and the end results are great. I painted my pistol and rifle magazines they all seem to be holding up great after about 6 months of use at work, as long as you follow the directions there should not be any problems.

Great product for the money

I have used this on shotguns,1911's and now a ptr91. It is very resistent to chemicals and holster wear.

MATTE BLACK LOOKS GREAT

I PAINTED AN OLD SHOTGUN AND HAVE PLANS TO COAT OTHER GUNS/PARTS AS WELL. THIS STUFF COATS WELL AND LOOKS GREAT. IF I DID NOT KNOW ANY BETTER I WOULD SAY MY 12GA IS A NEW GUN. WATCH THE TUTURIOL VIDEO ON THIS SITE IF YOU PLAN ON USING. THE ONLY REASON I GAVE IT 4 STARS INSTEAD OF 5 IS BECAUSE I AM NOT SURE YET HOW IT WILL HOLD UP.