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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Worked for me

This is my third can of Alumahyde II Coyote and it was a little different than the last two. It's a little more green but more matte. The previous two cans were very close to Magpul's FDE but more of a semigloss finish. No issues with tip clogging since I always spray the can upside down for a few seconds when I'm done to clear the tip. This last can didn't seem to go as far as the previous two did, not sure why but not a major issue. Could have just been how I was applying it. All in all, I'm pleased with the results and work involved to use it.

870 Refinish

Read the other reviews and look up the [...] videos for Aluma Hyde II. Tons of good information there.Stripped and sanded all the metal parts with 400 grit sandpaper then wiped everything down with acetone. The finish went on very easy.Definitely spend the $3 on the bag of extra nozzles. The nozzle on the can didn't work at all. I'd recommend throwing it away immediately and using a fresh nozzle every for each period of application.Unless you have the means to bake the finish, don't touch your work for 2 weeks.

Great finish just needs a better can.

I was able to get my AR finished in it. Great durable finish. I didn't wait 2wks. I baked at 275 for 2hrs per coat and it is just as durable as the original anodizing. Couldn't give it 5 stars though. The derned tip on the can came clogged. IT ARRIVED CLOGGED! I had everything prepared and ready to go, pop the top off and instant disapointment. So after cleaning my only tip in lighter fluid I got it going smooth. Really Brownells you guy should just throw in a couple tips with each can if they are left to clogg when they are installed on the cans.

Great paint!

The color is top-notch. I am also impressed that this doesn't require any baking or heat-treating. It is very convenient in that regard. However, the spray can clogged a few times and when it did, it would spit large droplets of paint onto the work piece. Also, the can didn't go quite as far as I'd expected. Some reviewers were able to get three guns out of one can. I was only able to get one long gun, the furniture from another, and a holster. All in all, a good product. Ordering a few more cans to finish the job, but will be prepared for less than stellar performance out of the can.

Just applied yesterday

Ok first thing get some Laqueur thinner, you will need this to soak spray tips as this stuff dries quick and will foul spray tips quickly. Do that and you will be happy with how it turns out. Now I just have to wait for a week to cure which will be tough. Did 2 AK's, turned out very nice. Will need to touch up a little. Remember do not touch up till cured (one week). I hope that this stuff is solvent resistant after cure.

Refinished my 1911 with this stuff

Awesome stuff. I wasn't happy with the parkerization on my 1911 anymore, so I decided to spray it. I chose AHII over others due to the fact that it is a lot more convenient (except for the waiting time, that's TOUGH ;) ). I followed all the instructions to the T, and I got GREAT results. I was patient and waited a whole week before I reassembled the pistol and it looks darn good. I've hand cycled the pistol several times and there aren't any signs of wear.

Color Matching

Well I wanted to do my Mil-spec carbine. So I stripped all the plastic, acog and light off the rifle. I have a buddy who does powder coating so he has a big oven and a sand blaster I could use for prep. I used Gun-Kote for the rifle its self. You do not have to bake aluma-hyde II just the gun-kote. The OD green gun-kote and O.D. green aluma-hyde DO NOT MATCH. They are not even close enough to say the aluma-hyde is O.D. green its more like a cross between a foliage green and a o.d. green. I did bake the rifle with the Gun-Kote and it turned out perfect then I just went over the rifle with the aluma-hyde o.d. green and the used aluma-hyde earth brown to put the pattern on the rifle. I did coat the rifle with the o.d. green aluma-hyde over the gun-kote. I sprayed my acog, butt stock, rail covers, forgrip and surefire light with the the o.d. green aluma-hyde. I let that sit for about a week. I then mounted all of that stuff back on the rifle and went after it with the aluma-hyde earth brown. I just cut a simple pattern in a paper plate and used that as my pattern. I would suggest if you have a can of spray paint laying around cut out a pattern you want to spray and practice on some wood or something. They say to let it sit for 24 hours but I let it sit for TWO weeks and it has set up hard as a rock. I have tried to scratch it and you have to put a lot of pressure to scratch it. ( I did that on a test piece I did) The biggest thing I can say is prep prep and more prep. I'm not a patience person but on this you have to be. Brownell does have video to watch on it and I strongly advise watching them a couple of times. Then main thing I would only say to do is prep, prep, prep, prep and watch the videos and you will do fine.

Durable Product. It Helps to Bake Later

Finished a Disassembled AR-15 Upper and Lower. If you do a AR-15 in Color (I picked OD Green) You will need to use the High Temperature Masking Tape or Mylar Tape to covertop edges and holes. The whole process went fine and you will need to remove all overspray from all of the trigger, mag release selector holes, etc.... I baked after a week for 2 hours at 200 degrees F. It took a little work to use acetone and q-tips to remove overspray on inside and mating surfaces of upper and lower. The end result was well worth the time. Very happy with this product. The OD Green is almost a perfect match with Mil. Clothing OD Green.

great product; easy to use

This is good stuff. I refinished an AR upper, lower, forearm, and ACE Socom buttstock with it. It is called coyote but is close to FDE. Its a little lighter than Danner USMC/ MARPAT Coyote boots. Its also a little lighter than the brownells SOCOM tan magazines-still looks great though. Follow the instructions closely. I lightly bead blasted mine (no sand media in machine) and degreased with TCE (brake cleaner). Dried to touch in 12 hours (AZ June 108 degrees) and I recoated after 48 hours. Caution- the finish is not quite flat. I would describe it as satin. It finished just like the can's cap in the picture above. On the re-coat my buddy recommended "dusting" by moving the can back to apply a slightly uneven finish to reduce the sheen- worked like a charm. Carbine looks awesome and everyone I show it to wants to use it on their firearm. Finish is great-shake the can well, clear the pickup tube after use, and store upside down to keep the p/u tube clear. Thanks Brownell's for another great product!

Looks original

Used this color to refinish an Romanian AKM and it looked like a factory original. Good bond to the sandblasted metal but seems a bit softer than Duracoat. Much easier to apply.