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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Primer Grey, not stainless

Besides watching the Brownells application video, the most important thing to know is that this color turns out dull primer grey, and does not really look like stainless at all. Would work very well for multi-cam camo or for something you want to look battleship grey, but it does not have any metallic look to it. I recoated with matte black quickly rather than leave my firearm grey. Not recommended only because of the color, not the product quality.

Very pleased with this product

I've tried many products, this one was pretty straight forward and easy. Project turned out much better than I expected. Obviously if you take your time, clean the gun really well and use a little bit of painters tape to prevent overspray or paint where you don't want it, you'll end up with good results. Some of the poor reviews here have me shaking my head, especially the clogged nozzle review below, I mean really, never heard of tipping a spray can up-side down to unclog a nozzle? If you follow the directions, pay attention to the directions, follow the temperature recommendations and it'll all go smooth as butter. I wish I had some -before- picture of my 2nd Gen Glock, as this sidearm has seen it's fair share of use, I've had this Glock for 25 years and the finish was rough, this product did a nice job bringing it's finish back to life. PS, This is only one coat of Aluma Hyde II, tomorrow it'll get a second coat. Which may not even be necessary, but might as well do the best job possible.

Great for some things

It is very thick, order extra nozzles and be sure to stretch the wrist before you start because you need to shake the can like it owes you money before, during and after (OK, maybe not after but be sure to clean it out) the application. Best application is Choate stocks since the are so rough and works very well on most items made of plastic, fiberglass, etc. Works good on steel and aluminium exteriors as well but I would usually use some other products if I can bake it. Doesn't work on high wear areas like the magazine tube of a pump action shotgun or that require close tolerances

Super Easy and Good Looking

I just completed applying this to a SA 1911 slide. It's hanging out in the hot sun to dry now. I took a wire wheel to the slide to remove old Ceracoat, then soaked the part in acetone for 15 minutes. The Aluma-Hyde went on easily in two separate coats and left a perfect, unblemished finish. Now let's see how long it lasts.

Great Product

Used this product to refinish a gun with bluing that wore off. Worked better than expected. Did have some fits with the spray nozzle clogging. Not a big issue, I had extra nozzles around. Looks great!

Big results for Little Price

Used this one on a AK restoring project. Sprays thick! so thick that the spray nozzle WILL clog so be prepared to deal with that. was able to fill small pits in the metal. We let the parts hang in the garage for 5 days before truely handling. During reasembly, it flaked off in a few tiny spots, but that was expected. Hard to say that waiting another 48 hours would have made a difference.

Really nice look

Make sure you follow the instructions and fully degrease whatever you want to paint. Brake cleaner in the spray can for $4 from [@] seems to work just as good as the much more expensive 'gun specific' degreasers. Put on very light coats, one after the other, waiting a couple of minutes between each application. Don't try to cover the entire area in one coat, sure way to get runs. Just did my Mossberg 500 with Desert Tan (only the plastic parts) and the results look great. Be sure to resist the urge to handle the gun for a few days so the paint has time to cure. Took off one star because the spray head got clogged after a minute or so. Luckily I read the other reviews and ordered the bag of replacements.

looks, durability, and price

Aluma Hyde II is great. I've painted two guns with it now, and both look amazing. If you prep right and spray evenly, TAKING YOUR TIME and paying attention to detail throughout, your gun will come out just the way you want it. Two minor critiques: - the paint is slightly glossy--but this could just as easily be my fault for spraying the coats on too thick. - the paint is thick and WILL clog your nozzle. Brownell's was good enough to send me replacement nozzles when I wrote them, but for convenience's sake, I'd recommend buying a 12-pack with this paint. Still, though, it sticks to metal and plastic with equal ease, and no amount of scratching will take it off once it's fully cured (~2 weeks at room temperature, for me). In particular, Earth Brown is a very good match for the website picture. Looks a lot like Magpul FDE. Highly recommend this product. You get much more than you pay for.

Very impressed so far...

I left my 20 year old 870 Express Magnum in a damp case for too long after a hunting trip last fall and was later dismayed to find the receiver and barrel were covered in rust. I cleaned the rust off, but a lot of the bluing came with it and I knew that corrosion was going to be an ongoing problem. I couldn't justify spending very much refinishing an old 870 Express, so the price point of Aluma-Hyde II was the primary consideration in my "refinishing decision". I took the gun apart down to a completely stripped receiver and barrel. I used CRC Brakleen in the green can (acetone, heptane isomer and carbon dioxide propellant) to degrease. It doesn't flash off quite as well as chlorinated brake cleaner, but I think it actually works better for degreasing because it stays on the metal surface longer, YMMV. I thoroughly wetted the barrel and receiver with brakleen, then wiped both down with a clean rag, then doused both heavily, allowed them to dry, then doused them again. I let them hang for about fifteen minutes before taping any threads. I put a single piece of tape on the inside of the ejection port, another over each of the dogs, I very carefully taped off the barrel extension and I placed a tiny piece of tape on the sight bead. I spent about fifteen minutes heating both parts (they were hot to the touch through nitrile gloves) with my wife's hairdryer while shaking the can of AHII in every direction possible. The ball did not roll free through the can at first, but could be "rolled" at the bottom of the can, at the middle of the can and at the top of the can before I started to spray. I had the receiver hanging with a cardboard backstop and started a light dusting, holding the can about eight or ten inches away. This is NOT stuff that you want in your lungs, YOU NEED A RESPIRATOR. I should have had goggles, the small particles in the air got around my safety glasses and really irritated my eyes. I hit it for about thirty seconds with the hairdryer and coated again. Repeat. The next coat I started to cover, per Brownell's instructions on YouTube. Keep a bright flashlight handy for this process - it helps to find spots that you've missed or only have partial coverage. I ended up puttng about five coats on the shotgun, maybe six. I plugged three nozzles during the process, I think it's a VERY GOOD IDEA to get the $3 bag of extra nozzles. When satisfied that I had full coverage (it's tricky to get the inside of the vent rib without getting runs - requires patience and a good wrist) I let them hang for about an hour (that's how long it took for the tack to go away). I'm not patient enough to leave a refinishing project alone for 30 days so, at that point I put them on a foil lined grill heated to 300 degrees and let them bake. I checked on them every ten minutes or so and concluded that 300 is too hot (smoking! I think hot baking is what produces color darkening!) so I reduced the temperature to 250. Total bake time was about two hours. I let them cool and then inspected. Finish appeared to be completely cured; you could probably get away with less bake time - maybe an hour and a half would be sufficient. NOTE: If you bake, you need to find a way to suspend your parts in the oven or grill. The aluminum foil transferred it's texture onto the paint on the side it contacted. I was able to sand and recoat immediately due to the baking, then I just put the cured side down on the foil and baked again for an hour at 250. That time it was good to go. In summation: DEGREASE until you're satisfied that there is no oil on it at all then degrease again. Spray CAREFULLY. Use a hairdryer or heat gun. You can cure however you want, but I highly recommend baking at 250 for 90 minutes. I'm very impressed with this stuff so far, time will tell how it holds up.

AWESOME

Provided you prep properly, this is the best rattle can coating out there!