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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Very good, when all goes well

You can get a good durable finish with this stuff. But! The gun MUST be cleaned properly. The temperature must be right. The can has to be shaken very well. The distance must be correct. You need extra nozzles so you can change them as they plug up. Brownells sells nozzles for this application. A hair dryer is useful between coats. Expect to wait two weeks to a month for the finish to cure. There are tutorials on Youtube. Yes, you Can get a good finish but all must be done correctly.

Good product, horrible nozzle.

I am impressed in the over all finish of the Aluma-Hyde II paint but the supplied nozzles are horrible, one star deduction for the nozzle! Given it was a colder day, 60 degrees roughly, I had problem after problem with the supplied nozzle. It would clog after 5-10 seconds of short burst sprays. Keep some brake cleaner handy to clean out the nozzle often! A primer size nozzle might work better if you have one laying around, it might be worth trying if you run into the same problem with the spray nozzle. Black Matte finish turned out better than expected, looks very much like duracoat. Goes on easy with little prep. and perfect for the D.I.Y.er.

pretty good

My coyote definitely has a green look to it, in person. my pictures it looks pretty tan. I re-used the same nozzle. Soaked it in nail polish remover between coats. Strongly adhere to the re-coat window for the best results. I would hold a heat gun to the bottom of the can before I would spray it. When I could notice a difference in the can temp, it was time to spray. I let it air dry. Waited 10 days to re-assemble, should have waited more. I got a chip and blemish on it from assembling too soon. I sprayed LCP, Shotgun, & a flashlight over 3 separate occasions. still have plenty left.

Buy 12 spare nozzles per project.

You should purchase 1 pack of 12 spare nozzles per project that you plan use Aluma-Hyde II on. Some nozzles clog after seconds of spraying or turn to a splatter finish or no flow at all. My project consisted of 3 parts that I put 2 light coats and one heavy coat on. I had to use 9 nozzles. The paint dries very nicely and is smooth and looks great. The nozzles leave a lot to be desired.

Works but complete the project fast

Painted my handgun with it (steel and aluminum). Always start spraying away from the gun to make sure that you have a nice flow of paint as you paint over the gun. Do so evenly, in controlled motion. As the product says, if you must make a retouch later, it must be fully cured. If you must make the retouch, don't spot retouch. Instead, repaint the one side of the weapon and cure because spot retouching leads to, well, visible "spots". Curing: I placed the gun in an oven at 200 degrees for a couple of hours. It looked great. Now for the bad: I had to throw away the entire can after a couple of weeks because the paint wouldn't come out anymore. Thus the 4 stars instead of 5. Now I have to rebuy one. I suppose they must make some profit somehow.

Finally An Exact Match to FDE

It's about time someone made an exact match to Magpul FDE. This stuff is great and easy to use. Never had the nozzle clog. Turn the can over and spray till clear and it won't. I also soaked the nozzle in solvent after use and blew it out with my compressor. The finish is a little semi-gloss though so it gets a 4 because of that.

Great product, but not as drab as O.D.

As with the Matte Black ALII, the finish is tough. The color is more field green,, or closer to foliage than O.D. Would not match Magpul O.D., but worked great to paint hunting equipment, such as D-rings, to get it to blend more with the tree & tree stand.

Shake...Shake...Shake

I used this product to refinish an Ithaca 37. If you buy this item, make sure you shake it for several minutes. I made the mistake of shaking it like a standard spray paint can and the paint initially spayed out uneven. I continued to shake it between coats and noticed the spray came out more even. Either way, the squirts of paint were barely noticeable after the paint dried. You have to look really close. I sprayed outside and hung up the gun parts in my garage to cure. I'm in California and my garage isn't insulated, so it gets pretty warm in there. Today the parts are completely dry, but I intend to leave them hanging for at least a week.

Oil to get the right Parkerized Finish

When I first built my AK kit, I was going to go with a matte black Duracoat or Alumahyde all over. But the worn Parkerized finish on the rest of the kit grew on me so I started looking for a way to do the receiver to match. I saw this and thought maybe it would come close to matching. It's just about spot on. After letting it dry about a week, it still looked too light but I read on a forum that oiling the surface would darken it up. It worked beautifully and now the finish matches really well. I'll give it another week and reassemble the rifle. A few range trips and I'm hoping it wears a bit so it'll match the 20 year old parkerized surface of the rest of the kit. We'll see how it does durability wise, but it's an AK so a little "patina" is alright we me.

works

This is really close the Magpul FDE. I have used several cans of aluma-hyde 2 and I am happy with the results it is a durable spray on coating. Does take a few days to fully cure. Only complaint is that brownells doesnt send extra nozzles or the unclog nozzles I recommend purchasing them with any can. Some of the cans I have purchase clog easily others have no problems. I have used them on several different projects just replace the nozzles.