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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Great product

I gave this product four stars as it could use some improvements, but overall a great product. When using AlumaHyde shake it very well before use and spray a few light coats, covering lesser covered spots on each coat - this will prevent runs in the paint; using a hair dryer or baking in your oven, about 125 degrees for a while will help cure the paint faster. I painted a knife to test it out on and then a raw upper receiver to get an idea of how to best apply AlumaHyde. I'd recommend using light pound test fishing line and hanging objects to be coated - the more you can do at once, the better it is to prevent splatter. If you must stop after a single use, hold the can upside down and spray until you get clear gas coming out of the can. This will help prevent clogs and splatter for future use. I would also recommend soaking the tip in 90% rubbing alcohol or paint thinner immediately after use and then cleaning it out with a tooth pick, or something of the like. I still need a little practice, but so far that's all I've discovered about how best to use AlumaHyde.

Impressed!

I purchased the product due to the price point & ease of use. I started by a thorough decreasing with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, upon drying, taped the sight areas that I didn't want painted & suspended the slide outside with wire in 85-90temperature. I followed directions on can, thoroughly shaking as described & test sprayed the nozzle to ensure any spatter was cleared from the nozzle & a consistent spray was achieved. I sprayed the entire slide with a even coat letting it dry for 20-25 minutes, repeating the process for three coatings & then allowed to dry for 24 hours before handling, 48 hours before assembly. I did not heat the components or bake the paint between coatings. The paint coated consistently without running utilizing the product as purchased. I only rated the product a 4 due to not knowing the durability, with that being said, it appears to be resistant to normal use of holstering.

Satisfied, but not what I expected

It's an affordable, durable, and lasting change of color to your firearms. However, wears out where there's friction. i.e. where AR upper and lower meet, mag well, fire control pocket, etc... So, it should not be used as a protective layer against corrosion in the interior of the firearm. Besides that, it's a very good product, it's tough, does not chip, and not much glossier than a Cerakote finish. P.S. This is a lighter color than Cerakotes Magpul FDE. It almost looks olive in indoor lighting.

Tad bit too glossy

Product works great when fully cured at preventing chips and scratches , but it was a tad too glossy and not a complete flat color, that didn't bother one bit all I did to remedy the slight problem was hit it with a layer of matte clear, as for the color, it matched perfectly with my magpul fde accessories

Better have time

Used on aluminum trigger guard on a pistol. Old finish completely removed, acetone dip and air nozzle dried. Pre-heated item to 95'F, sprayed 12"-15" away, went on well. Did not apply enough and buffed through in a spot. Scuffed with scotch pad, wipe with contact degreaser pad, air dry, then sprayed again, ended up with wrinkle finish. Started over but applied heavier coat. Buffed with Flix then Meguiars autopaint finescratch removal compound, finish looks as good as blued steel. This coating has to be very dry, 4-5 days at 75'F is barely enough time to harden and chemically bond. BE PATIENT

Good product, but cookies don't match up

I used this product to coat my AR-15, and if prepped properly it's comes out great. Get the extra spray nozzles because it will spatter of left alone for a time, and thoroughly shake in-between uses. Color is maybe between 1-3 shades lighter than expected but still a good product. I'm not a fan of the long cure times, so I baked each part at 250 degrees for there hours, 1 hour of cooking, then another 2 hours at 190 degrees and it came out rock solid. Preparations are very important, and correct prep gives you a strong, solid finish. I've tried to scratch the finish and it hold up better the the anodized costing had so far. I will be buying this product again. Picture uploaded is with Magpul SL stock in FDE and BlackHawk grip in FDE.

Good match on Arsenal AK rifle

The semi gloss is a good match for an Arsenal AK if you do it right, do a light mist as a final coat for the correct texture. The semi gloss tends to clog less than the matte black. Make sure to get clean out nozzles and extra spray nozzles. This stuff clogs up nozzles like crazy!!! Also let it cure for a long time or bake in an oven to fully cure it.

Mine didn't match but it looks ok

I've used a lot of the colors they offer here and they change from batch to batch I think. I was hoping to have an easy to match fde but it turned out almost identical to the coyote they offer only more glossy

First Time User

I used this to redo the receiver and trigger guard for an old Marlin model 60. I tried to redo it on the cheap about 10 years ago with some high temperature auto paint, but it ended up chipping and not lasting long. This time, I took my time, cleaned the metal really well and left the receiver and trigger guard slightly scuffed up from the sandpaper....I want to say it was 280 grit sandpaper, but it was rougher than the first time I tried it. I cleaned it up well, then I let the parts sit for about an hour in 9% vinegar, then finally I cleaned it one last time with denatured alcohol. Prior to painting, I let the can sit outside in near 100 degree heat in August for atleast an hour and I shook it extremely well in different motions (up and down, side to side, etc.) for about 10 minutes. Right before painting the receiver, I heated the receiver with a MAPP gas torch it get it nice and hot. Make sure to start spraying before moving it towards the metal parts so that you don't get splotches or drip marks. I let the first coat sit for a week in a hot garage, then washed it, baked it at about 300 for half an hour before applying a second coat using the same process as the first except that I put the second coat into the oven after 15 minutes of air drying. After baking the second time, I left it outside for a day, then baked it one last time at 300 degrees for an hour. It isn't coming off this time and is very tough. It's more matte black than I would have liked, but my main concern was durability and it looks good with the newly blued barrel. I only give it a 4 star instead of 5 because of how it comes out of the can through the nozzle. I also bought extra nozzles and used one for the second coat. I can't stress enough to let it spray 1-2 seconds before applying it the metal, and if it seems chunky to not spray it on the metal until it starts spraying smooth again.

Aluma Hyde is great, nozzles suck

I have used alumahyde II for years and it has always performed great. The most recent can of matte black I received came with a red nozzle. Previous cans always came with a white nozzle. These red nozzles just don't hold up. I went through 5 nozzles just to finish spraying one barreled action. I think Brownells should include extra nozzles with every can or redesign them.