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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Turned out great

Very satisfied on how it turned out. Sanded all my parts really well then sprayed with brake cleaner. I did 4-5 very light coats and used the blow dryer between each coat. Then I put all the parts in the oven for 3.5 hours. Turned out great! Not glossy at all. Now I'm just waiting for brownells to get the rest of the colors restocked so I get paint the rest of my guns!

Shake plenty and prep well.

Good substitute for Duracoat or those wanting a more oil resistant alternative to krylon. Shake the living hell out of the can before spraying. Buy extra nozzles and sand and blow dry heat the object you are spraying if you want to minimize touch ups and recoats. I use it hastily to mark my magazines. On Magpul polymers I usually take some 200 grit sand paper and lightly run over the surfaces I'm painting heat it up and spray 2-3 coats because the mags are going to be abused anyways. Done several test carry guns to wear out the finish and after a year it's still holding up very well. The magpul FDE is very close and I imagine if I wanted to take the time to 1200grit wetsand the gloss on it then it would match perfect. My OD green was very bipolar at first would clog with every nozzle and spray like globs and a year later the same can sprays perfect. Never had that problem with the FDE or blacks. Good finish for the cost and those unable to use a compressor or wanting a quick and easy finish.

Only alternative to cerakote

If you don't have the time, money, or equipment to cerakote this is the stuff. Don't listen to the other reviews about it being thick or not spraying right. The earth brown from brownells is more of an OD green then brown (which i guess is a normal issue, the sand color matched the lid perfect). Which is why i posted the picture, this color is the fist under coat. Just follow the instructions! I hung the parts outside to heat them up (95-100 degrees) and left the spray can there as well before using. Make sure you work fast and clean the tip with thinner as needed. Every couple of sprays shake the can and do a test spray. Buy extra tips from rustoleum if you don't like the fan spray or you don't want to clean the original tip. This one can will go a long way, probably be able to do 3-4 projects. Let cure for the directed amount of time before applying stencils or adding a second coat. The stuff is great!

Dark Parkerizing Gray

Dark Parkerizing Gray is more of a Gray Green and is not all that dark in comparison to some black finishes, but does look pretty good. Mine has scratched in a few spots but over all has held up well. Make sure to degrease properly and give plenty of time to cure.

The Secrets

1) If you don't want a glossy finish keep your distance. It's fine to put on multiple coats but stay at least 15" from your part for at least the last two. Wait almost the entire 30 minutes recommended for the followup coats. READ the directions. I know that's tough but DO IT! 2) Shake, shake, shake and then shake some more. 3) Don't buy tons of extra nozzles. One pack of spray and one pack of cleanout nozzles will last you forever. Follow #4 and I doubt you will have nozzle clogging at all. I'm on the same nozzle on my current can and the one on my last can lasted the entire can. Turn the can over and spray until clear and wipe the opening with a rag, then put on a cleanout and spray a second or so more. 4) The directions clearly say it must be 70 degrees to use this. You know, those directions you didn't read. But, wait until it's 75 or higher, warm the part in the sun and leave the can outside in the sun until it's hot or heat it for an hour in hot water. THIS will prevent clogging. Did I say shake, shake, shake? 5) If you don't shake enough the color will turn out lighter and lighter as you put more coats on, Shake! 6) No, the color is not exact. It's a tad lighter and has sort of a green/grey hue. If your handguard came in Cerakoat FDE and you paint your receiver with this, the difference will be obvious. People who say the match is spot on are obviously color blind. If your picky, it will bother you so, spend the money to have your parts Cerakoted for a perfect match. The color difference prompted this 4 star rating by me. Other wise it's VERY durable if you followed the directions as far as prep and application.

Durable, cheap, easy...ISH.

Have used fde and dark earth for all my AR platforms and black to refinish my Kalishs'. Just like any paint job prep is everything, never used primer or blasting on my items just degreasing and light scuffing. Bought extra nozzles in case the ones on the cans clog (which they do). Been utilizing this product for years and have learned patience when it comes to cold curing. My small parts that I need quickly I have cured in the oven at low heat (despite my wife's threats). Overall lots of bang for the buck but there is a learning curve to dealing with nozzles. Totally useful, easy, cheap.. I also painted parts on my motorcycle as well as exhaust parts with minimal issues.

OD Green Color

Great product. The color is an OD greenish, similar to the old WW2 parkerized color. The standard Alumahyde Parkerize is closer to modern grey-black color.

Good product. . . not the color stated

This is an awesome product.I painted a hand guard last night and it is a darker shade of OD green and not park gray like stated.The finish needs time to cure,after 24 hours its able to be handled as long as you do not put pressure on the painted parts or it will dent easily,will need to cure and dry for a few days.The finish is very nice but sticky until it cures im sure.I painted my pistol on Magpul FDE, i do not plan to use it right away so the cure time doesn't matter to me.

almost perfect match

I have been looking for a spray can color to match Magpul FDE. I did not want to wait 2-3 months until Brownells FDE became available again. After reading several reviews, I decided to try their Coyote color. It was so close to matching the Magpul FDE pieces I already have, it would be hard to believe that their FDE color could be much closer. After proper prep work, I applied a couple of light coats and set the items aside to dry/Cure for several days. I am absolutely thrilled with the results. I had no problems with splatter. plugging, or anything else. I would definitely recommend this product!

Pretty dang close.

The key to a good finish is prep and patience. I was doing a B5 SOPMOD stock, I wanted it to match my Magpul fde and KAC fde furniture on a recent AR build. I started by disassembling the stock and sand blasting it. I used acetone to degrease it before applying. I had a shot glass filled with acetone to soak the tip after each coat (clogs fast but only needed one). I used a heat gun to warm the part before each coat, not after. Applying a light even coat with no runs is key to getting a nice matte finish and a slightly rough texture. Stay at least 14"-16" inches away when spraying so when your nozzle starts to clog and begins to spit rain drops they don't make it to your part and cause glossy areas. If you spray heavy coats it's going to be glossy it just a fact. So be patient and use multiple coats. I let the stock cure for a week before I assembled and installed it. It seems durable enough, a lot better then krylon. It's been about 3 months and hundreds of rounds with no signs of wear. Yeah it's not that easy to apply and has a long cure time, but it matches Magpul/KAC fde and that's what I was looking for.