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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Good but not as durable as Cerekote

Rebuilt a 20 year old Mossberg 500 that was in pretty bad shape. For 13 bucks it was worth a try. Sand all scratches in the barrel and then hit them with a filler primer. Excellent results. Based on previous reviews I heated the paint and shotgun parts.horrible results. I originally coated the shotgun with flat black and I believe because the paint was heated, the finish ended up being extremely rough, rough as 220 sandpaper. I decided to sand it down and recoat with Magpul FDE. Did not heat the paint or shotgun and the finish came out beautiful. 3 light coats followed by a final coat within an hour. Let the parts hang for 24 hours and then baked at 195 for 4 hours to speed cure. The Magpul FDE matches perfectly with the ATI shotgun furniture. Love the way this turned out.

Color is perfect

The shade of grey is perfect! (About 2 shades darker than "haze grey" for you squids.) Looks like this will blend in nicely to the background in the Mid-Atlantic/Appalachian regions for sure; and probably other regions of the U.S.

Easy product to use

Purchased a 590a1 barrel/magazine for my tired Mossberg 500A. I wanted to do a different finish on the aluminum receiver. Disassembled. De greased with brake cleaner. Applied two coats within 15 minutes. Easy.

Brownell's Matte Black Aluma Hyde

I have used this product before so with that in mind, I shook the can really hard for 5 minutes and made sure it was warmed up properly. After prepping the rifle as directed, I pre-heated the metal with an electric heat gun, very warm to the touch. I first sprayed some of paint out into the air to make sure the nozzle was up to the task of delivering the paint properly. After the first few spurts and squirts, it finally started spraying just right. Once I get it going I like to keep it going until I finish the first coat. After the first coat is on, I like to go over it with the heat gun again, but on the low setting. Once it starts to dry, I stop, put the project up for at least 24 hours to dry. They say it resists bore cleaners and solvents, but it don't. I got some Montana Extreme bore cleaner on the end of the muzzle and it took the coating right off down to the bare metal. A quick touch up took care of it, so be really careful with your bore cleaners and solvents. OK.........it's good for what it's intended.

Brownell's Parkerizing Gray Aluma Hyde

Nice

Applies easily, seems lighter than the color of the cap. If you want to darken it, spray matte clear over it.

Works better than expected!

This coating is so easy to apply, just need to have patience and the proper prep work. For best results follow the instructions and put four or five coats on. I used one or two on some small parts and chipped the coating while reassembling the firearm. With four coats, I hit the surface with a two-sided hammer and it left no visible marks at all. Be sure to let it cure though. One to Two weeks is a must.

It's more "Olive Green" than "Park Gray"

The color on the cap isn't even close. It looks more Olive Green than Gray. Other than the color, the paint gets as hard as a rock when baked in an oven at 195 deg. for 3 hours. Good quality coating... But it's NOT Gray.

Pay attention to recommendations

I can testify to the fact that this product will be problematic to use successfully if you do not go the extra mile with it. The epoxy is quite viscous and clumpy. I learned a couple pointers which helped but still will have some frustrating issues. I purposely placed the can on the dash of my truck in direct sunlight to thoroughly heat the paint for the full day, occasionally shaking the can. It was pretty warm by the time I got ready to go home for the day. I then shook the can all the way home (30) then periodically shook it until I used it shortly after getting home. I could tell a noticeable difference in the viscosity of the paint, as the marble flowed through the paint much more easily. Then blew out the tube with a clean out nozzle from Brownells. Spray was much more fine in mist and coated well. You NEED to continually shake the can between sprays. The product will start to clump and the spray tip will start spitting. I got an acceptable coating but not perfect. I then placed the parts in an oven at 180 degrees for 50. The can recommended 195 degrees for 2 hours but I felt the slightly lower temp would allow the paint to self level a bit before hardening. Not sure if it had any effect or not. Will allow it to cure then decide about final quality. Ceracote may be a better option but cost more. Good luck with your efforts.

So far so good

My finished .22 rifle and scope project looks great. The Magpul FDE is a super color. The spray was so easy to use. One note: Turn the can upside down. Spray until paint stops coming out between each full coat. This will clear the nozzle and eliminate splatter from the spray nozzle when the nozzle starts clogging. Just waiting to see how durable the paint job is and how long it will last.