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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Wish you had more instructions

Wish you had more instructions on the usage sheet about cleaning the spray nozzle or the need to buy additional nozzles. Nozzle plugged up and caused spattering and runs. Had to sand and respray. The Aluma-Hyde itself is GREAT!!

by Lawrence Smith on October 15, 2023

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Worked Great But

I painted a bunch of gun parts, plastic and aluminum. The paint went on great. I did a second coat even though it didn

by WILLIAM MORLANG JR on October 05, 2023

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Great product but very temperamental

Steps to get a good finish when using this product. 1. Steadily shake the cam for at least 10 minutes prior to use. The hardener will separate if the product sits for more than a few minutes. You gotta shake it up for a while or your first several sprays will be nothing but hardener, and look like you spilled syrup over wjat you are painting. 2. Use paint thinner, lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, acetone, etc. on the spray cap after each use. Do this even between applying coats. If you don’t, the epoxy will clog up the spray cap and you will get a jet stream coming out of the cap on the next application. Do this EVERY time. This issue could be solved if Brownells didn’t use the cheapest spray caps out there.

Works. Used 3 times successfully

I've used this Aluma-Hyde II stuff on 3 different rifles. 1st go around was a bit of a learning curve. If you cant bake it, be prepared to wait about a week to cure. Very first use was a number of years ago on a Savage Mark II FVSR. Still holding strong. Used on another reconditioned .22 and an AR since. Only used matte black.

Can be great but you need to know what your doing.

Have used it a few times to coat my AK, AR and my G3A3 clone. If used properly with light-medium coats and given time to dry after baking it create a very good durable coat. However if you don't know what you are doing you will have to spend quite a bit of money to get a professional to fix your gun then even more doing a new coat.

Solid Choice for a coating

Used a can of Flat Dark Earth, shook it up for about 5 min, sprayed upside down for a second, sprayed a nice even coat. Cured it in the oven for about 3 hours, and then let it sit on a shelf for 3 days before I touched it again. Besides some fitment issues with my magazine release, it turned out very well.

by Jesse on March 03, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 8

Updated Review

Posted a review under this color not long ago talking about everything being a different shade of FDE including this OD Green. My review shows a hand guard rail painted with this and Magpul OD Green M-Lok, ladder, and hand stop...the BUIS are black. Ordered a couple more cans and tried something different. Shook the can a good 10 minutes, pre-heated the items to be painted to 200 degrees for 15 minutes, and made a bowl of really hot tap water that I set the paint can in for about 15 minutes while adding new hot water every couple minutes. Removed items from oven, painted immediately with about 3 coats across 30 minutes while putting the paint can back in hot water between coats. Then oven cured items for 4 hours at 195. The OD Green I ended up with from this was darker, not Magpul OD Green dark, but a couple shades darker than in the pic I put in this review line. Came out more like Hogue OD Green and it's a near perfect match to BCM Foliage Green.

Good Product

Great product that I'd use again. I used it on a black anodized AR-10 handguard. The product applied very easily with good coverage and no runs or sags. I applied 2 good coats spaced 15 minutes apart. The "Magpul FDE" color is a bit lighter than the actual color of my Magpul FDE stock. I can live with it but really picky gun owners may have trouble with this. The curing time is listed as taking up to 10 days to fully cure. This could be an issue for some. All things considered I'm happy with this product so far. Even if it were to scuff off, I'll just hit the handguard with some fine steel wool and recoat in the future.

Tough, but not quite Magpul FDE

I did a ground-up build on an AR, and I wanted something than the typical black, so I figured FDE would be a good way to go. When I ordered the parts, I picked up a lower parts kit with a Magpul stock and pistol grip and decided that I'd give this Aluma Hyde II a shot - it's advertised as Magpul FDE, so I thought that would be my best bet. For the good - it seems to be very hard and pretty durable - time will tell, but it held up well to my fumbling while doing the assembly. I warmed the can and parts (based on some online tips) so it sprayed evenly, and it seems to have cured well. Would I use it again? Probably - especially since I have a good half of a can left. (I used 2-3 coats - some small areas got a 3rd coat on places where it was a bit thin.) For the bad. It's not really matte - it's more of a satin finish as a woodworker, I wouldn't characterize it as semi-gloss. It has a bit of a sheen, but it's not really glossy, hence, satin. I can live with that. What did surprise me though is that it' considerably lighter than the Magpul FDE. I'm not overly butthurt about that - it's an AR and a functional firearm tool, not a showpiece - so I felt the overall effect was still pretty decent. If I really want it to match, I suppose at some point I can pull the stock and pistol grip and coat those too. So, 4 stars because of the color, otherwise I'm pretty pleased with it.

Wolf Gray

Aluma-Hyde Wolf Gray is a perfect match for BCM accessories of the same color. I applied 5 coats to an Aero Precision receiver set and let it cure for a few days before assembling the rifle. I did notice some very minor flaking and peeling on some of the high spots, but Im not too concerned about that since I shoot a lot and expect some wear and tear from normal use anyway. I may not have had that problem if I had waited the full 10-14 days as recommended in the instructions. Now that more time has passed, the finish does seem harder and tougher. Overall, Im happy with the color and quality for the relatively low cost. I would buy again.