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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

Customer Photos & Videos

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Easy

It’s easy to use, but not as tough as I’d hoped it would be.

by JAMES HAWKINS on November 14, 2025

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So far so good

Very pleased with how the finish turned out. I did the speed curing in the oven at 195 degrees F for 3.5 hours. I will say that once you start spraying, build up of paint accumulated around the top rim of the can and the pressure coming out of the nozzle will then begin to splatter paint blobs onto the surface of whatever you’re painting. I figured out quickly to keep the can itself clean of excessive paint to prevent this from happening. I have a couple of Magpul FDE magazines gen 3 and this paint doesn’t quite match. The paint is a more gray and the magazines are more brown. It doesn’t bother me but just know that this isn’t a perfect match. I’m happy with the overall look of my rifle. I don’t have any other FDE Magpul products; just two gen 3 magazines so I can’t exactly guarantee that you’ll have the same outcome, but the paint doesn’t quite match my particular Magpul FDE products. I’ve put a few hundred rounds through my rifle so far and the finish has held up very well. Minor chipping only in the areas where contact with other surfaces has occurred. The only other thing I’d say is that if you autistically disassemble your rifle like I did you might find tighter tolerances when you put everything back together. This stuff does add a not insignificant layer of material to the surface of whatever you apply it to.

by Sean Meehan on October 01, 2025

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Messy Shots!

Bought the OD green and the matte black. The OD green had delivery issues. Paint came out well enough to get the job done, however, paint came out in liquid form, got all over the nozzle and my finger. The nozzle would stick to my finger and come off the can. Messy! Now before u think that I didn’t shake it enough, this ain’t my 1st rodeo. I shook the heck out of it! Now the black was the complete opposite. Came out smooth, no fuss no muss!

Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend

by THERON WING on August 08, 2025

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Hit or Miss

Okay, here's the deal. First can, ODG. I shook until I thought It was good, THEN shook it 10 minutes more. I did an inverted clear out, then a test spray on cardboard. NICE even spray and good cover. I painted an AR barrel, hand guard and upper all in the same session. The coverage was smooth and complete. I was very happy with it, STILL am. Second can, Dessert Tan. Evidently, I DIDN'T shake it enough. Inveted clear out. It came out like "silly string." Completely USELESS. So, I switched cans. Shake, shake, shake. Clear out and it was suitable to start, but about halfway through it started sputtering in spite of inverted clear out. LSS. I did complete the project after stripping sections and reapplied the error. A second project the matte clear top coat, I used on a Ruger LC9 I refurbished helped protect the finish, and gave "textured " finish that actually looks like I intended to "orange peel." I like the look. So, shake EXTREMELY WELL. Be patient and clear out FREQUENTLY to get acceptable results. OH! To accelerate and "cure" the Aluma-Hyde II. I hung or placed the parts on the dashboard or rear view mirror of my Jeep in the Florida sun. The interior temperature reached 130 F and two hours of that worked very well.

Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend

by DAVID BENDER on August 02, 2025

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Works well

Works well depending on what you’re spraying the paint on. It’s best used on rough surfaces or parts that will not be handled much. It’s very good on AR upper and lower receivers, barrels, flash hiders, etc. It doesn’t work as well on magazines as the paint tends to scratch off when the magazine is inserted or removed from the gun. I also use DuraCoat and that type of paint is similar. You have to take into account that the paint is on the surface and any parts that fit tightly together.

Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend

by ATTILA SZERENCSY on July 13, 2025

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Awesome, but…

This is as close to cerakote as you will find without all the mess. Brownells hear me!! Make more colors!!! PLEASE!!! The difference between FDE, Coyote, and earth brown is negligible. So make some more colors maybe a greener green and a burnt bronze please.

Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend

Good paint

I’m kinda new to this paint but it seems to be working well so far. Had one tiny little piece flack off Pmag but it could have been prep failure. Time will tell!

by CHRIS BIESTER on June 10, 2025

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Awesome on anadized.. Raw no

I have painted several firearms with Aluma-hyde. If the anadized surface is there it sticks amazingly. I had a handguard that was cerakoted, and had to remove it because you can't paint over it. The Aluma-hyde went on good, but I find it chips easily when applied to raw aluminum, especially on edges.

Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend

by DopeyFudd on December 11, 2024

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I love this stuff but dropped a star because of color discrepancy.

I love Aluma-Hyde, it comes out perfect as long as you follow the suggested prep and application process. I’ve used the ODG, Magpul FDE, Coyote, and Earth Brown. Each have always come out lighter than the shade on their caps. The FDE is far too llight to match Magpul’s. The Coyote is closer to FDE but still a shade lighter. My favorite and best results are with the Earth Brown. It’s a shade darker than FDE but nothing close to its dark brown cap. It’s closer to Aero’s FDE.

by SHANE LAHAIE on December 14, 2023

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Aluma Hyde II ,olive drab

If instructions are followed, project will turn out just fine. I did not use a oven ,let the sun do the job .After 7 days, I reassembled, seems durable ,so far so good!

by JEFFREY BUDZBAN on October 30, 2023

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