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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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GREAT PRODUCT!!!

i asembled an AR-10 with a 24" stainless steel barrel. Because this rifle will be used for countersniper and competition, I needed to "hide the barrel" and make it match the rest of the weapon. I applied two coats according to the instructions and It did a fantistic job. I did not experience any problems what so ever! GREAT STUFF

I would buy this product again!!

Easy to use, and very durable.

GREAT PRODUCT, MUST HAVE FOR GUN SMITHS!

great product if you follow the instructions. watch the youtube vids and do exactly what he says and you will be golden. just got done painting my S&W MP 15-22 and it looks solid. don't hesitate to buy. if the tip does clog, just take a rag and wipe the tip and cont spraying, easy enough.

GREAT PRODUCT

I USED THE S/S GRAY AND GLOSS CLEAR COAT TO FINISH A SHOTGUN, AND I MUST SAY SO FAR IT SEEMS TO PE A GREAT PRODUCT. I DO HAVE TO SAY IT IS MORE A GRAY COLOR THAN A TRUE STAINLESS. WENT ON EASY AFTER I REMOVED THE OLD FINISH FROM THE SHOTGUN.

Great stuff--shake like mad

Refinished a fiberglass stock--nothings perfect but this stuff comes pretty close!

great stuff

follow instruction's and it work's like a charm.used on a old ak that was really beat up, looks like new and the paint hold up great.

Great Stuff

redid mine and a buddies 870 shotguns they look outstanding, just have to be patient with them, follow directions closely, and dont touch it for a week!!

Good product, have done 3 rifles already

Follow the Instructions and you can't go wrong. I prep all my guns (barreled action) with a light glass beading. I follow up with a good air blowing and a wipe down with lacquer thinner. Let dry between coats and you are done. The longer it sits the harder the paint seems to get. The paint seems to be solvent resistent, I have got Montana 50 bmg cleaning solvent on the paint and no problem and that stuff is loaded with Ammonia.

Excellent Product!

Decided to try this product on one of my pistols after all the good reviews from the other users (Thanks guys for all the good advice!) I watched the YouTube video & followed their instructions to the letter. I first diassembled the gun completely & then wet sanded & steel wooled the surfaces of both the slide & frame a little, just to make sure there would be a smooth surface, & then bought a can of auto body de-greaser to clean with. After painting, I kind of baked the pieces in front of an electric heater for 2 days at about 120 degrees to speed up the curing process. The paint finish was a little grainy right after I painted the pieces, but subsided a bit after the 2 day baking. After about a week I decided to try an experiment to see if I could smooth the grainyness down a little more. What I did was I rubbed the surfaces of the frame & slide very lightly with extra fine steel wool (extreme emphasis on the word LIGHTLY!) It actually smoothed the surfaces down even more almost to a factory look! Didn't even scratch the finish! Just be very careful to avoid rubbing the steel wool on the finish for too long, or on the edges of the metal! After 2 weeks, I reassembled the pistol & it looked like new! As I've said, this is great stuff if you follow the instructions & all the advice that everyone else has written about it. If you have time, try to experiment with the paint first on a piece of scrap-metal before using it on your gun.

Great product, but requires prep!

This product is very easy to apply if you follow the directions and it drys to a very hard finish. However, due to its hardness it will chip easily if you dont sand or blast the surface you are painting. Either sand the firearm being coated with 400 grit sandpaper, or blast is with aluminum oxide (120 or 240 grit will do fine) so the paint has something to grab on to.