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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Aluma Hyde

I make a dagger similar to the Gerber Mark ll and use Aluma Hyde as a coating on the aluminum handle as a replacement for the "Cats tongue" finish which is actually sprayed molten metal. It has held up as expected from Brownells. Sprayed from a distance ( 2 Feet ) it leaves a rough finish which is perfect for a non slip handle coating.

AAA+++

This was my first time to use this product, It was easy to use covered very well and matches the magpul flat dark earth perfectly! The only thing i have to say is follow the directions and when you order spend the extra couple of dollars and get extra nozzles. I had everything preped and ready to go and the nozzle was clogged luckily i had extras.

aluma hyde

This stuff works great and easy to use. Need extra spray tips to keep it a smooth spray.

great product

Just a bit more expesnive than Krylon but its a LOT tougher. Prep is key, i reccoment brake cleaner, great degreaser/cleaner leaves no residue for prep work and its a lot cheaper than the reccomended degreaser. goos stuff if you can't do the bake on.

Great Stuff, but you must be patient!

First of all, this Coyote color actually matches almost exactly with Magpuls Flat Dark Earth Furnature. Second of all, you must be PATIENT to use this properly. I speak from experience, and if you don't wait for it to completely cure, this stuff won't bond properly and you will know it. Sanding off the part and starting over sucks. Follow the directions on the can. Sand or Abrasive blast the part, then degrease it. Heat the part with a blow dryer and apply a coat. Heat again and apply another coat. Repeat. Once you're satisfied here, comes the patience part. Hang the part in a dry place as long as it takes. The key for me was smelling it. After the recommended 7 days, it still smelled strongly. After about 2 weeks the smell was gone, and the part had taken on a dull satin sheen. The stuff is as good as duracoat in my opinion when applied correctly. Use light coats, they seem to bond better anyway and the cure time is shorter. Heavy coats may come out glossy, but as someone else pointed out, once it's cure, just give it a light dusting and problem is easily solved. I've refinished two AR-15 Carbine receivers with this and couldn't be happier with the results. The brass has yet to chip it off of the brass deflector on the upper. One last thing... Buy the extra set of nozzles and replace them after each use. That will prevent a can getting blocked up.

shake the can!

Very close match to Magpul "flat dark earth" -just slightly darker. It covers very well & looks very professional once dry. Make sure you shake the can well during your work, and don't take too long. Mine got clogged and needed a thin wire to get it flowing again. One can covered 3 guns and scopes.

Hard to beat

I acquired an old beater Mossberg 500 that was in poor condition (finish in bad shape, missing parts, stocks ugly). I ordered the parts and some Matte Blk AH2. I didn't want to use heat to remove the magazine tube, so I scuffed the receiver with emery clothe and blasted the barrels and stocks with aluminum oxide. The whole gun; lock, stock, and barrel, is painted with the stuff and the results are very satisfying. It is a uniform color, which looks very much like BLACK parkerizing (though you'd never get parkerizing that black). The stuff cures HARD. I'm amazed that repeatedly working the slide has produced no wear whatsoever on the magazine tube. Maybe it will with time, but after approximately 40 cycles, no wear - none. Though it came out well, it was not perfect because the directions are not great. Here's what I learned along the way: After sanding/blasting, degreasing and hanging the parts, paint in a well ventilated area that is as warm and dry as you can make it (and wear a respirator). Heat the contents of the can using a ceramic heater to 90-100 F, and shake vigorously before and during the application. This will help keep the "spattering" problem at bay. One can of AH2 did not adequately cover a shotgun with two barrels. Have a second can ready just in case. The stuff goes on really thin, which is a good thing if you expect it. Spray in high intensity and uniform light for best results. Plan on five (yes, five) coats. The first just a dusting, then set with a hair dryer (don't try to cure it - just enough with the dryer to let the solvent flash off); second coat also a dusting, hair dryer. Third coat, try to cover but don't get runs. Set with hair dryer. Fourth coat, dust whatever you've missed, hair dryer. Fifth coat, the rest you missed (the stuff is thin - after you've "gotten it all" you'll discover you haven't)and hair dryer to set. If it's not humid leave it outside during the day to cure - the hotter the better. If it is humid, bring it in as you run the risk of the exposed metal (i.e. bore) rusting. Leave it hang for two weeks - better safe than sorry. In the winter, consider four weeks if inside temps are in the 60's. Other reviews have said that aggressive bore cleaners like MPro7 will take the finish off. I don't plan on finding out. For a field shotgun, Breakfree and a brush, a jag, and some patches will do the job.

Matches my Magpul FDE almost perfect.

This stuff is sooo good. It matches my magpul FDE stuff almost perfect. It's just a tad darker but that might be because the stuff I painted was black. Just make sure you CLEAN the stuff to be painted and wait about 3 days before handling. My brother didn't and I can see where he touches the magazine we painted, it looks like the sweat on his hands made it turn darker and smuggie looking.

I will use this product again.

I used this product just like the directions said on and Remington 1100 that was beat up, and it looks great now ! Easy to use no problems. This is the first time I ever used it and I would highly recommend it for anyone to use. I now have a great looking field gun.

Camo Paint Made Easy

I camo'd my 870 last week and was very pleased. It was my first time painting a gun, and will be doing a couple others in future. I didnt have any problems with the paint. It does go on thick, my base color was tan, and one coat covered the original black. No sticky finish like with other paint. Follow the directions on the can and you will be fine. I hope they will come out with a lighter green to add more vegitation contrast and depth.