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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Good Stuff

It's hard to beat this stuff for the price. I sprayed an AK, a couple of Blackhawk Serpa holsters and a couple of SOG knives with this stuff. Provided you follow the directions (degrease, thin coats, let it cure), it is very tough. I tried to scratch the stuff off of the plastic I shot and was unable to do so. It seems hard as a rock. I'd recommend you buy some of the spare nozzles as they do clog after while.. NOTE: DO NOT get this stuff near Gun Scrubber or Easy Off. It removes enamel finishes!!!

Great for synthetic stocks!

This paint worked great on my synthetic stock. My advice is to buy the additional spray nozzles. When you get the paint, discard the white nozzle it came with and put on a black one. Shake the can vigorously and apply in three to four light coats. Let your item bake in the sun and don't touch for a week. I would have tried to bake it (210F) but the stock would not fit in the oven. I may have damaged the stock if an oven was used.

Very Nice

Used this on an AR to match the dark earth anodized free float tube to the MagPul MOE stock and pistol grip. I took the plunger and spring out of the stock and wiped all the plastic down with acetone and scrubbed the hand guard with soap and water, used several light coats to cover with within the half hr drying time and hung by a wire in front of a portable bathroom heater for a few hrs. Results were excellent! Color was excellent! It did take a few weeks to cure good and hard but after that its durable and it doesn't scratch off. I did spay a plastic forward grip without wiping with acetone first and it did scratch right off, but after re-doing it and using the acetone to prep it with its there to stay now.

great alternative to bake-on finishes

I've used this product on barreled actions, AR mags, moving pistol parts, and just parts in general that see a lot of frequent friction. I even did the bolt on my bolt action and after 100 rounds or so it doesn't even show wear marks. In fact, a coat on the bolt tightens it up in the action a little, giving a better fit. I used it on mil issue aluminum M16 mags and there is no wear on the portion that goes in the mag well. I find that impressive from a spray-on coating. For the price, this stuff can't be beat.

Great alternative to bake-on finishes

Excellent for refinishing Barrels

I used this and the park dark grey for refinishing 6 old shotguns, barrels and recievers. Easy spray on and short bake on cure time, finish is hard as a rock, and beats reblue by a mile. Talk about puting new life back into these old guns! They look better than new now, and the Alumahyde dont rust or wear like reblue does.

Good stufff

Shotgun - Rifle Sticks pretty good to bluing. None that I can see.

EXCELLENT COATING

EASY TO USE COVERS VERY WELL VERY DURABLE REQUIRE PATIENCE ( NOT TO TOUCH UNTIL CURED ) THE HARDEST PART IS WAITING UNTIL YOU CAN CONTINUE WITH YOUR PROJECT

Read the directions, buy extra nozzles..

I have all the colors and use them on everything from stocks to suppressors and their firearms with great results but don't re-coat after the 30 minute time until it is completely cured..I know it says 90 degree circulation of warm air helps but what I have found out after extensive use since I hate cure times is "let dry completely no matter how thick you put this on or how many coats you apply for 24 hours, then BAKE the daylights out of this at 350 degrees in the oven for how ever long you want!" I do it for about 3-4 hours. This proceedure leaves a completely cured rock hard excellent finish and a lot more durable than if you wait out the full one week cure time...

great product

Applies wonderful to metals. Prep work is everything. Degrease, degrease, and degrease. Apply paint to prepped surface. Desert tan works great as a base coat for a camo job.