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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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I love this product! Pics of my AR:

I baked it on @ 200* for 5 hours. The base is Earth Brown and then I applied stencils and the top coat it Coyote. It is very hard and resistant to solvents including bore cleaner and acetone. I bought tons of new spray nozzles and it goes on thick but after baking is ready for use.

The high desert meat and potatos paint

Where I live everthing is faded from the wind and the weather. Whether its a rock, a bush, or the ground it is faded. This paint color does ok with any of those three in the background. Perfect up against rock- no- perfect in vegetation - no perfect in grass no but it works against all three. It does Ok in all the seasons except of course snow when only white works. Perfect no but it does ok. Its tough as nails, I use it as a base coat for everthing then usually add a little arevoe earth red and sand. I have not found a paint that works better across the board in the high desert ponderosa country. The best color of the alumnahydes IMHO. One of those brownells products that is above and beyond.

Awesome Product

Used this on a 1987 Remington 11-87 that has been my go to gun for 26 years. Follow the directions and it will last. The finish has seen 3 years of hard use and is holding up very well. In some high use areas it has worn but it is still protecting the metal from rust. Wear a mask and cover your skin and clothes, it will stick to those as well as it sticks to the gun. Will be purchasing more to do an AR for coyote hunting.

I don't know why you's use anything else

I love this stuff. I've re-finished AR parts with it to get a uniform matte black appearance and even used it on household projects, such as re-finishing outdoor house numbers, where a tough, long-lasting, consistent finish was needed. It's great on phosphate steel and, of course, aluminum mags. After applying, I bake parts and mags in a toaster oven after it flashes off to speed the cure. It is tough when bake cured. By the extra nozzles though and use a fresh one for each project.

GOOD STUFF

I used this product several times and learned some things along the way. Read and follow directions. Clean with laquer thinner than denatured alcohol. Alcohol must be used because laq. thinner has petroleum in it, it must be completely removed. This why 90% of people have trouble with finish, poor prep. I accidentally over heated a can of this stuff one time in front of a heater, shook it for about 5 min. and began spraying. It came out perfectly no splatter maybe that's the secret because everytime I use it I heat can until warm to the touch, and I get great results. You still need to keep extra nozzles on hand. You must let it cure at least a week. I actually like spraying in a warm garage in the winter than put items near heating duct in house. Three coats using heat gun in between each coat. Plug all pin holes or tape off where there are tight tolerances. This is really good stuff just give it a chance. Outcome is only as good as preparation.

Works great!

I finally broke down and bought the Aluma Hyde II, I used another brand to paint some factory furniture and, although good, I was not completely happy with the color. The nozzle did clog, I took a safety pin and scrapped the inside of the nozzle and piece of dry paint came out then it worked fine. I am ordering another can in desert tan so I can do a two tone paint job on my Ruger P85. Now that I am aware you can add some extra nozzles I am going to do that. Like other said put on in light coats. I put mine in the oven for 4 hours at 150-200 degrees.

BEST AEROSOL GUN FINISH

Degreased a completed 80% anodized AR lower with a can of wally world break parts cleaner, heated the part in a little chief meat smoker to 165 degrees. No abrasive blasting necessary. Degrease 100% and handle only with gloves. Applied a thin coat over the part and let dry for 10 minutes, then a second light coat. Let air dry for an hour. Then baked in the meat smoker at 165 degrees for 8 hours. Then assembled the small parts and upper. The finish came out as hard as a rock, does not chip, peel, scratch, or fade. It is resistant to all gun solvents and oils. The dark park finish matched fairly well with a vintage 1970's colt upper. You can't tell the difference when oiled. Much cheaper than reanodizing. If you can spray paint and have a week to wait or a meat smoker or oven you don't mind stinking up, this is easy.

Works as advertised

Used to refinish a Ruger Blackhawk grip frame. Worked great with nice finish with no orange peel.

excellent product,the stuff in the can

the color i ordered was as it said, it does NOT need a primer,just clean surface.it turned an old has been into a new creature,totally recreated it.love this stuff.bought another bottle.

Aluma-hyde Coyote = MAGPUL FDE

Although this isn't exactly coyote, this is a perfect match if your looking for MAGPUL FDE. I just finished a customer's glock frame, and it looks amazing. Aluma-hyde is an awesome and durable product when applied propperly.