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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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PERFECT MATCH

I really couldn't have been more pleased with FDE Alumahyde II. I used this to coat my AR upper and was a perfect match to my FDE parts and polymer lower. I will admit, I made a few mistakes my first time using it, but not due to fault of the product. It seems to adhere better to anodized parts as opposed to "raw" finishes. Also, if you're going to oven cure, you should allow it to air dry to touch (or use heat gun) prior to. Of course, be sure to degrease the part before applying. Application was easy and only took about 15 min per part, and 2 hours in the oven @ 200 degrees. Will definitely be purchasing again, but will buy with extra nozzles.

Retired Gunsmith

Today was a day I was waiting for. It finally warmed up enough for me to apply this product to an AR 15 lower. If you follow the education Brownells provides you should get a perfect finish. I had never used this and it is a great finish. There is no reason to get a bad finish if your follow the directions. If I was not retired I would offer this finish as a professional finish.

excellent product

This is my "go to" for a durable economy finish. I have not used it on handguns yet but I have done many long guns. I de-grease with acetone, this is most critical step.....2nd is allowing to cure long enough, 3 is masking and/or cleaning any close fitting parts. I do several light coats while letting it flash off in between. I have tried heating/baking and it does speed the flash off. but I find the coating cures to max hardness over several weeks, that could be because of my method. But once fully hardened it is very good. I started using it for truck/boat guns that get used very hard, it holds up great. I have even touched up one shotgun that had a large scratch from being dropped in a boat and 18 months after the finish was applied..... didn't strip it, just good work over with 0000 steel wool and spray it. this stuff fills light scratches and shallow pitting really well. one area that takes extra effort is covering wood stocks. I did a complete Winchester mod 67 22cal from the early 50s. It had suffered a lot of abuse. The issue with the stock was it was oil soaked in one spot and it took a month of drawing out oil then a good sanding to get any finish to adhere. that was 2 years ago, saw it last week and it still looks good. i hope get a chance to used it on a handgun soon. I realize this product may not not be everyone's cup of tea but it is great product and used correctly it is hands down the best economy finish that i know of. BTW this review is for all colors not just the black

2yr update

Ok i coated my upper 2 years ago when this color first came out and i wanted to share it with you all, i have run this gun hard for 2yrs and stored in either my house or trunk of my car and it has held up very well and i continue to use this coating on my long guns

Perfect For That Old School Tiger Stripe

In July of 2016 I used binder twine to hang my AR 15 between two bird feeders. I let it sit in direct sunlight for 1 hour. Also left the Aluma Hyde out in the sun. I followed the directions and shook the snot out of the paint immediately before application. I finished within 1/2 hour. This rifle is not a safe queen and has been used monthly. The camouflage job still looks perfect. I let the finished product dry for 1 hour in the sun. I only had a small place come out glossy. I think I held the nozzle too close during this part of the application. (My fault, not the paint.) You can go with the higher priced options on the market but why bother. If you get tired or don't like your own results, you can always redo it the next week. No oven or heat gun required for professional looking results.

Propper Prep

There is a secret to using this finish, I did a lot of reading before purchasing. I wish there were more color options but it works well when you prep properly. The secret to an even coat, to easier spraying and over all better applications requires you to heat the surface being coated and also the rattle can. Most electric ovens only go as low as 170 deg fer, this is a bit hot to handle the rattle can but it will not blow up while warming up (surface and the paint need to be at least 90 deg). Also most polymer parts can easily with stand the 170 with no ill affects, if you are worried contact their manufacture. -I made a wooden mag-well stand from a block of 4x4 I had and placed my rifle and paint in the oven for half an hour, pulled it out and wiped down with acetone, placed back in for another half an hour. NOTE: I pulled the can out about 20minutes prior and shook the living tar out of it for the full 20min! (if I could find a cheap paint shaker that would fit a rattle can I would buy it) -Pull your rifle out of the oven, take it to where you are going to paint it (I don't suggest painting it in an air conditioned environment it will cool too quickly) -Before you spray with your regular nozzle use the clear-out nozzle (seems to always be some gunk that comes out on first spray) tilt can upside down and spray a short burst, remove clear-out nozzle -Put on your spray nozzle and hold back about 6 inch and spray in slow even sweeps. -Making sure to shake the can every two or three sweeps to keep it from clogging -Remove the spray nozzle and put the clear-out nozzle back on hold upside down and spray a short burst -Carefully pick up your rifle and put it back in the oven for about 2 hours. Yes, I know it says it doesn't have to be baked but I tried it both ways and at least your prep should include raising the temperature of the item being coated and the rattle can to AT least 90 degrees, and the after baking just sets the finish so much better than not. I know for those doing long barrel guns an oven is not practical but we are a creative lot.

There is NO light pink!

I normally don't write reviews but I just had to comment on the review that said that there is a shade of pink to the color. That's simply not true, the person that wrote that didn't actually *use* the product. Yes, the can top does have a shade of pink to it but, as other reviews have noted, do NOT go by the color on the can top. Once you actually use this product you see that it's a very nice tan, almost khaki color. Personally, I think it's a fantastic color and looks very nice on most firearms. I oven cure my items and when they come out of there you can really see the benefits of using an epoxy-based paint, its looks fantastic and it almost serves like a "coating" on there. I'm very happy with this purchase.

Great product!!!

I have used a few different colors on dozens of guns and have never had a problem. I recommend heating the can in the sun for 20 to 30 min to soften the epoxy elements for better mixing and shaking for 5 to 10 min and you wont run into any clogging problems. Prep is 75% of proper application.

Works as a it should

After reading many reviews about this, I bought both sets of nozzles as a "just in case". I haven't used any of them yet. So here's the down-low that has worked for me. First, I media blast (as applicable) and clean my parts in warm water and dish soap, using an old toothbrush to get in the small areas. I DO NOT touch them after this! I use a paper towel to lay them on and a paper towel to dab them dry. Then I throw them in an old mini oven i use for this purpose and bake 'em for an hour or so to make sure it's good and dry. Afterwards, whatever you use to paint 'em so you don't touch them is up to you. I've used wire, screws, etc... Now, I shake the can while watching tv or listening to the radio for awhile to make sure it's good and mixed up and then I spray 'em. When done I turn it upside down to clear the nozzle. Now I bake it around 200-250 and go up about 100* every hour until I get to 450 (my highest Temp) for about 30 min. I have used it on a lower and an upper that didn't quite match in color as well as an old knife that needed a touch-up. It has proven fairly durable. Not Cerakote or Milspec but it'll get the job done for a good price. I recommend this stuff for a harder coat than spray paint and as a touch-up. One last thing, it is really a "MATTE" finish, which means it will have a "sheen" to it thats not quite Semi-gloss but not flat either. I say this because some have complained it's not flat. Matte is an in-between of flat and semi gloss so it will shine a little bit.

Tough finish, very satisfying results

I have used Alumahyde II (AH) on a Heritage Rough rider pistol; two WASR AK47's; and several rifle magazines. The results have been excellent. The appearance of an Alumahyde II finish is very much like parkerizing, and with similar durability. It's probably best NOT to use Alumahyde II on internal parts like the bolt. Alumahyde II is durable but will not stand up to lots of friction, it will wear away in no time. Also Alumahyde is very very thick. If it is used on internal parts that move, they are likely to stick. Although it does work nicely on magazines. I was not satisfied with the cheap looking and scratched, original finish they called "Bluing" that came on the Heritage pistol. And the WASR AK's. had been parkerized at the factory - but they still looked rather shoddy. I decided i wanted to fix the finish so I chose to use AH II.. I watched the Brownell's videos before even stripping and masking the guns; and first thing i did after I had my "plan" was to sand the scratched and uneven parkerized finish on the WASR's - (I roughed the finish, cleaned with brake cleaner and cleaned them off with compressed air). On the Heritage pistol i did strip off the old bluing down to bare metal, mostly using sand paper and a de-bluing kit solution (a waste of money if you ask me)I I did use a heat gun (maybe the most important tool for getting a good finish) as recommended. The heat gun is important not only to warm the parts, but to chase out the solvent and crud from out of the nooks and crannies! It is equally important, to heat up the can of ALumahyde itself until it to is warm enough! Alumahyde is extremely thick - and if the can is not warm it is very likely to spatter and spit over your gun and even clog up the nozzle, bringing your refinishing project to a grinding halt! For safe heating of the can I soaked it in hot water for 10 minutes, heated it up with a hair dryer (no heat gun here, didn't want any 'splosions) and shook it til my arm was numb - for over two minutes. Take care not to apply too much AH paint in one pass, or it will run! The way the gunsmith does it in the video is perfect, apply many light coats, heating with the heat gun in between coats -no more then 4 or 5 total, maximum.If you notice a run in the paint, all is not lost! Just wipe the run off quickly with a lint free cloth, and hit it with the heat gun. Even though Alumahyde II is a cold finish, I baked anyway (so I wouldn't have to leave all the parts lying around for 2 whole weeks). I set the oven for 200 degrees using an oven thermometer, removed all but one of the oven racks, attached the parts to cut off coat hanger wire (even the AK fit in the oven, with the stock removed and sideways!) and baked the parts for 4 hours. After cooling i reassembled. Even after baking, I still let it dry an additional week, the longer it dries, the harder Alumahyde gets. While probably not as hard as other baked on finishes such as Cerakote, it is still plenty hard enough! And what is more, if it gets scratched or chipped, Alumahyde is easy to touch up and usually any repair will not show! For easy retouching of small areas that have already cured, I just spray some Alumahyde into some foil and apply with a brush and this works well. In my experience, if care is taken during prep, cleaning, and heating the surface and the can of paint, good results are almost always achieved.