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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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S/S Gray Alumahyde

I used the SS Gray aluma-hyde on a AR pistol build. This was my first time using the aluma-hyde and overall very satisfied. I didn't find it as difficult to apply as other reviews had stated and didn't have nozzle issues as reported. I prepped well with acetone and what small issues I had were mostly due to my inexperience. I had one small area bubble on top of the rail where I applied heavier than needed. I had a chip out when installing the pivot pin, and one other mark where I got impatient and moved it before it had fully air cured. I knew this process was going to be my learning piece and and am ok with my mess ups. Doing it again I would use silicone plugs in the holes in the lower as well as the magazine release hole. Apply light coats and be patient if air curing. Other wise I'm satisfied with the outcome. So far durability appears satisfactory. After approx 100 rounds only a very small mark on the brass deflector.

Great Product for the DIY gunsmith

I read all the reviews on this product before I purchased it, and I was very nervous because of all the reviews about clogged nozzles and spray issues. SO I purchased all the replacement nozzles and clean-out nozzle. Live and learn, shake the can as directed & turn it upside down when down to clean out the nozzle and you will be fine. I sprayed my parts on an 81 degree day in my shed. The paint covered like a dream, sprayed 3 light coats and it looks like a pro did it. Now time to wait 10-14 days, might be faster as my shed when closed up is about 95 degrees in the summer and has great air circulation. I will post again once parts are cured and ready to build!

Excellent refinish at affordable cost

I changed the color of a 10/22 receiver, barrel, and trigger housing using the Coyote color. It can best be described as a lighter shade of O.D. green. Do not be dissuaded by some of the reviews that claim it is hard to use. Follow the instructions and you will have no problems at all. I like the fact that it blended well without runs if you use light even coats and steady strokes. The finished results are durable, attractive, and much less expensive than paying for a Cerakote refinisher. Unless you mistreat your rifle this finish will last for years. I sanded the finish with 1200 grit sandpaper which was wet and contained a drop of liquid dishwashing soap. It gave me a professional satin appearance on the rifle barrel and receiver. VERY PLEASED with this product.

Battleship Gray

I went in knowing that it wasn't a shiny stainless color like the name implied. Exactly what I needed. The nozzle doesn't clog as quickly as some reviews seem to say. I used mine for a total of maybe 20 min. As with any spray paint, the key to keeping a clear nozzle is to clean it out when you are done. Hold it upside down and spray until you see only propellant coming out. For the speed cure, I only baked for about an hour at 200 degrees because I was impatient and it came out fine. The hardest part of using this was probably getting the cap off. It wasn't very intuitive, and I ended up cutting the whole thing off instead. Also, attached a picture for you all below. Compare the frame color to the white "Olight" lettering on the WML.

Great for AR builds / projects!

Excellent product, just bought my third can of the matt black. I read a lot of reviews saying "how difficult" this stuff is to use..BUT I didn't have any issues with paint running, globs, clogged tips, ect. Just watch the instructional video on the Brownells site (they have some of the best informative videos on their products) and make sure your parts are properly prepped and degreased. The paint adhered great on both my sandblasted parts and those that were just degreased. I did 4 coats on my lowers and let them cure for about 2 weeks. This stuff works great and holds up to the abuse. Follow the directions and it won't let you down.

Hey Brownells, make more colors!

Lots of whiners leaving reviews on here. IMHO, for the price of a can of this stuff, it's ability to be used as needed and put back on the shelf and used again a month or so later coupled with it's durability, it's worth it's weight in gold to me. My only issue is some of the color's shades are very similar and don't contrast well, limiting the products ability to be used to come up with some really unique patterns. So, more colors. It's a wonderful companion to cerakote to save some money doing small parts or basic solid coverages (attached pic Creedmoor in bazooka green and AH ii MagFDE). As far as matching another company's color (MagFDE) stop whining. Of alllllll my coated arsenal, I've never seen two different companies colors perfectly match. As far as some complaints of to glossy, very lightly buff with 0000 steel wool before it's fully cured and bake again. Smooth every time for me. I like some gloss to some of my rifles though, I'm retired now so they'll never see the desert. I've given my AH stuff as much abuse as my cerakoted and duracoated stuff and really can't gauge what holds up better. They all get banged against climber stands climbing and jarred against the door of the UTV on the nice paved roads driving out to hardwoods and food plots, etc. None of the famed coatings are an alternative to your Army issued Pelican hardcase but put AHii up there with the big guys. So, Brownells, more colors guys.

Great product

The only issues I've had with AlumaHyde have simply been because I'm a novice. After some practice and figuring things out I've found that metal really needs to be bead blasted, sanded, or scuffed up a bit for AlumaHyde to really adhere and help reduce the possibility of a glossy finish; one problem I have is I tend to spray a bit thick. I wait for the late spring to start applying AlumaHyde as that's when the temps where I am really start getting into the 80s and the summer months we'll get up to about 115. AlumaHyde is rather easy to use, but I recommend finding some junk metal to test a can out on and try different techniques to familiarize yourself before starting a firearm or other object of value. If you get runs you can always soak a piece of metal in paint thinner to get the AlumaHyde off, but if you can deal with slight imperfections, it is pretty forgiving and will usually smooth out. Tips: Be sure the medium is well prepped for painting; bead blasted, sanded, anodized, etc ..; clean medium well and be sure to wear latex/vinyl gloves; don't apply to thick (familiarize yourself with how to paint); let dry for at least 30 minutes before touching, the dryer and warmer the climate the better for application; get a few extra nozzles; and TAKE YOUR TIME.

Best guncoat for your money

I've tried other canned paints for firearms, mostly Duracoat. However, they are very pricy and once you mix, you have to be used immediately or within a few days, or they go bad. I've had this stuff for a few months now. I did custom stencil on magazines, painted an AR buttstock, painted an AR grip, a dust cover, and even stencil work over an upper/lower. This thing has worked great. Some pointers... 1) Follow Instructions 2) Shake, shake, and shake the can some more. I go about 10 minutes. 3) Have a blow dryer at hand. Warm up the surface to be painted and even the can a little as you shake it. 4) TWO light coatings is ALL you need. Use more and you may overspray causing your stencils to chip the paint when you remove them. 5) Before removing stencil use blower to help with flash drying the paint You'll be satisfied with this product.

Great paint if used properly!

This product is absolutely great! All the negative reviews in reference to the nozzle, splatter and whatnot are likely due to inexperienced with painting. To make this stuff work and work properly, thoroughly degrease metal (I mean scrub the life out of it with acetone, breakfluid and scotchbright pads), heat whatever product you intend on painting. 180 degrees is sufficient, put the spray can in hot tap water (no hotter than the hot tap water) for at least 15 minutes or when the can is warm to the touch, shake the life out of the can (2 to 5 minutes is plenty), start spraying the paint prior to contact with the piece your painting to insure paint is evenly spraying, light coats! It'll take roughly 3-4 coats for optimal coverage, let paint dry in between coats for around 15 minutes. In between coats, remove spray nozzle and spray a heavy coat of break cleaner on and in nozzle AND, while spraying, pay close attention to the paint that gathers up at the nozzle and wipe it away. After your done with painting, allow piece to flash (20-30 minites), then bake product for 1.5 - 2 hours at 180 degrees (yes, polymer will be fine at this temp), allow product to cool in oven until room temp. PUT PRODUCT UP for another 24 hours, carefully put weapon together and then forget it for 2 weeks. When the smell of paint is gone, you'll be golden! The picture I provided is the difference in color between the Magpul FDE and the desert tan. I've painted several firearms with this very paint and ALL have been sweet as ever using the above directions.

Fantastic!

Very nice easy to apply and hard as a rock when fully cured ! Make sure anything your trying to coat is prepped properly