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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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tough and somewhat self lubricating.

This stuff is much tougher than any rattle can enamels or acrylic. The Surface is slick after full cure. I put it on a worn charging handle. If it is an item that can take 195 degrees pop it in the oven at 3 hours 30 minutes otherwise it's a 14 day full cure. I baked my charging handle and it looked like new and I noticed it glides quieter and smoother and the Alumahyde has not started to wear even during or after cleaning.

Great product!

I used Flat Black, Magpul FDE and OD Green Aluma-Hyde II to paint a tiger-stripe camo pattern on my Micro-Roni. I was concerned because other products did not wear as well or required that their product be baked on (not a good idea to put polymer parts in the oven). Aluma-Hyde will cure completely without baking, is longer lasting than other spray-on products and is easy to use! I am very happy with the results and I'm trying to figure out what to do for my next project!

Tips for your Aluma-Hyde journey

First off, this stuff is great. Seems like most people are struggling in the application or remove. 1. The can clogs very easily. Get an eye dropper and a bottle of paint thinner. When the can goes dead or sputters, remove the nozzle and drop some paint thinner into the port of the can itself. Start spraying (some should come out), then redo the paint thinner one more time. It won't clog again for the rest of your spray. It will clog the next time you use it, but repeat the process. People are claiming the cans lose aerosol, but this trick will bring cans back to life, I promise it's just clogged at the tip of the can. 2. Some nozzles are unsaveable. Buy spare tips from Brownells. These have a larger port than regular rattle cans, so don't try the standard replacement ones from the store. 3. When you want to remove Aluma-Hyde, search YT for a video about removing it. Basically, you put Kwik-strip paint stripper on it, wait for it to bubble, then it wipes off like wet paper. Scrub it with warm water and soap. No sanding, filing, or sandblasting. It should take less than 20 minutes. Careful using paint stripper on plastic parts. I've only removed this from metal parts, so YMMV. This stuff goes on easy, it's tough, and it's not permanent if you don't want it to be. Good luck everyone. Brownells, you should put these tips in your description.

Good Adhesion, Great Customer Service

The color match is near perfect. It was easy to apply if you've ever spray painted anything in your life until it started clogging. I nearly finished the entire gun. I emailed customer support on the weekend and they responded the following Monday. After explaining my situation they informed me that they would send me a new can to finish my gun. Make sure you wear a mask in a well ventilated space, this stuff is thick and gets everywhere but atomizes pretty quickly so the dust that settles can be wiped off any surfaces that get dirty. I spent time prepping prior with isopropyl and heated up all metal parts to about 200 to cook off any residual oil, then some steel wool and another wipe down with alcohol on a microfiber cloth. Be diligent with prep. I did bake it after paint at 220 for 3 hours and that hardened it up pretty quickly. It's been a week and I've been getting great compliments and it seems pretty hard. Went on to bare aluminum.

Dries fast and smooth

This can of paint sprays on thick at first, but give it a few minutes, and the finish smoothens out and it becomes dry enough to touch after 15-20 mins. Not bad for something that is a fraction of the cost of Duracoat aerosol. Only gripe i can think of for this product, is that I wish Brownells expanded their color palette and made more colors to choose from. Otherwise, this stuff is good to go in my books.

Matches Magpul FDE Very Well

I read all the reviews saying Coyote worked better to match Magpul FDE but a few said Magpul FDE worked for them, so I decided to buy the Magpul FDE instead. I coated a black handguard and Leupold Mk 4 scope on my Mk12 "clone" to match FDE Cerakoted U/L receivers and Magpul FDE stock, Hogue grip and mags. While the non-Magpul FDE receivers look slightly darker, my eye can't tell the difference between the Aluma Hyde coated and Magpul FDE parts. I followed directions as far as thoroughly degreasing the parts, applying multiple light coats, and allowing to cure thoroughly. Having worked with epoxies, I know that temperature is critical so did not ignore this crucial step. The minimum temperature stated is 70F but directions imply that warmer is better, so I made sure that handguard, scope and paint were all well above that before painting. I have a small closet housing my water heater that typically stays around 90F with the door shut so after painting at 75F I left the painted parts suspended with coat hangars for roughly 72 hours for full cure. This rifle has been well-used and shows no chips or scratches, although it has not been on any tactical missions, just normal range use. It may not be as durable as Cerakote but it's pretty darn durable, much tougher than any other rattle can product I have tried, including Rustoleum and spray paint I have tried from Autozone that is made for aluminum wheels. In fact I would not be afraid to use Aluma-Hyde on raw aluminum parts, although the thicker mil coating may have to be masked or removed later from inside friction fitted parts that are not visible.

Guns, Rims, You Name It

Purchased 2 cans of this in matte black. Built a Bulgy AK-74 and then prepped and sprayed. Also built a Romy RPK and did the same. Then my cars rims were rusting terribly, and got my hands on a set of OEM rims for cheap in new cond. Prepped with 90% alcohol and let dry. Warmed can under water for 5 min. Then I sprayed the coats as Brownells vid shows and they came out beautiful. For the guns I cooked the 74 in the oven at 250 degrees for 45 min to decrease cure time, and make more durable. Put the RPK on the gas grill at the same 250 for 50 min since it was a grill so temp fluctuation. The rims I used the heat gun on for 5-10 min to cure as much as possible. So far am very very pleased. The guns and rims look fresh and have a good finish that is resistant to scratches, rust, etc. Somethings you should do to get a good coat: 1.) PREPARE ITEM BY DEGREASING WELL 2.) HAVE ACETONE IN A LITTLE CUP FOR THE NOZZLE 3.) TEST SPRAY BEFORE SPRAYING ITEM 4.) SPRAY LIGHTLY THE FIRST TWO COATS THEN HEAVY THE NEXT 2 5.) BAKE AT 250 FOR 45-50 MIN

FDE Perfect match

If you are looking to match your FDE accessories with any Magpul parts - this is definitely the best way to go. This matches the color to a tee. Easy to apply. Great and complete coverage. Be sure to prepare the surface from grease and oil - like with denatured alcohol. You will not be disappointed.

Very tough. Maybe the toughest paint.

I have tried BBQ grill paint, appliance epoxy paint, Duracoat, Durabake, and Norrels. While the bake on finishes are tough, you never really appreciate how tough this air dryed product is until you get it on your arm. It took forever to scrub off. The parts I sprayed came out great too.

Only alternative to cerakote

If you don't have the time, money, or equipment to cerakote this is the stuff. Don't listen to the other reviews about it being thick or not spraying right. The earth brown from brownells is more of an OD green then brown (which i guess is a normal issue, the sand color matched the lid perfect). Which is why i posted the picture, this color is the fist under coat. Just follow the instructions! I hung the parts outside to heat them up (95-100 degrees) and left the spray can there as well before using. Make sure you work fast and clean the tip with thinner as needed. Every couple of sprays shake the can and do a test spray. Buy extra tips from rustoleum if you don't like the fan spray or you don't want to clean the original tip. This one can will go a long way, probably be able to do 3-4 projects. Let cure for the directed amount of time before applying stencils or adding a second coat. The stuff is great!