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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Matches Magpul FDE Very Well

I read all the reviews saying Coyote worked better to match Magpul FDE but a few said Magpul FDE worked for them, so I decided to buy the Magpul FDE instead. I coated a black handguard and Leupold Mk 4 scope on my Mk12 "clone" to match FDE Cerakoted U/L receivers and Magpul FDE stock, Hogue grip and mags. While the non-Magpul FDE receivers look slightly darker, my eye can't tell the difference between the Aluma Hyde coated and Magpul FDE parts. I followed directions as far as thoroughly degreasing the parts, applying multiple light coats, and allowing to cure thoroughly. Having worked with epoxies, I know that temperature is critical so did not ignore this crucial step. The minimum temperature stated is 70F but directions imply that warmer is better, so I made sure that handguard, scope and paint were all well above that before painting. I have a small closet housing my water heater that typically stays around 90F with the door shut so after painting at 75F I left the painted parts suspended with coat hangars for roughly 72 hours for full cure. This rifle has been well-used and shows no chips or scratches, although it has not been on any tactical missions, just normal range use. It may not be as durable as Cerakote but it's pretty darn durable, much tougher than any other rattle can product I have tried, including Rustoleum and spray paint I have tried from Autozone that is made for aluminum wheels. In fact I would not be afraid to use Aluma-Hyde on raw aluminum parts, although the thicker mil coating may have to be masked or removed later from inside friction fitted parts that are not visible.

Guns, Rims, You Name It

Purchased 2 cans of this in matte black. Built a Bulgy AK-74 and then prepped and sprayed. Also built a Romy RPK and did the same. Then my cars rims were rusting terribly, and got my hands on a set of OEM rims for cheap in new cond. Prepped with 90% alcohol and let dry. Warmed can under water for 5 min. Then I sprayed the coats as Brownells vid shows and they came out beautiful. For the guns I cooked the 74 in the oven at 250 degrees for 45 min to decrease cure time, and make more durable. Put the RPK on the gas grill at the same 250 for 50 min since it was a grill so temp fluctuation. The rims I used the heat gun on for 5-10 min to cure as much as possible. So far am very very pleased. The guns and rims look fresh and have a good finish that is resistant to scratches, rust, etc. Somethings you should do to get a good coat: 1.) PREPARE ITEM BY DEGREASING WELL 2.) HAVE ACETONE IN A LITTLE CUP FOR THE NOZZLE 3.) TEST SPRAY BEFORE SPRAYING ITEM 4.) SPRAY LIGHTLY THE FIRST TWO COATS THEN HEAVY THE NEXT 2 5.) BAKE AT 250 FOR 45-50 MIN

FDE Perfect match

If you are looking to match your FDE accessories with any Magpul parts - this is definitely the best way to go. This matches the color to a tee. Easy to apply. Great and complete coverage. Be sure to prepare the surface from grease and oil - like with denatured alcohol. You will not be disappointed.

Very tough. Maybe the toughest paint.

I have tried BBQ grill paint, appliance epoxy paint, Duracoat, Durabake, and Norrels. While the bake on finishes are tough, you never really appreciate how tough this air dryed product is until you get it on your arm. It took forever to scrub off. The parts I sprayed came out great too.

Only alternative to cerakote

If you don't have the time, money, or equipment to cerakote this is the stuff. Don't listen to the other reviews about it being thick or not spraying right. The earth brown from brownells is more of an OD green then brown (which i guess is a normal issue, the sand color matched the lid perfect). Which is why i posted the picture, this color is the fist under coat. Just follow the instructions! I hung the parts outside to heat them up (95-100 degrees) and left the spray can there as well before using. Make sure you work fast and clean the tip with thinner as needed. Every couple of sprays shake the can and do a test spray. Buy extra tips from rustoleum if you don't like the fan spray or you don't want to clean the original tip. This one can will go a long way, probably be able to do 3-4 projects. Let cure for the directed amount of time before applying stencils or adding a second coat. The stuff is great!

S/S Gray Alumahyde

I used the SS Gray aluma-hyde on a AR pistol build. This was my first time using the aluma-hyde and overall very satisfied. I didn't find it as difficult to apply as other reviews had stated and didn't have nozzle issues as reported. I prepped well with acetone and what small issues I had were mostly due to my inexperience. I had one small area bubble on top of the rail where I applied heavier than needed. I had a chip out when installing the pivot pin, and one other mark where I got impatient and moved it before it had fully air cured. I knew this process was going to be my learning piece and and am ok with my mess ups. Doing it again I would use silicone plugs in the holes in the lower as well as the magazine release hole. Apply light coats and be patient if air curing. Other wise I'm satisfied with the outcome. So far durability appears satisfactory. After approx 100 rounds only a very small mark on the brass deflector.

Great Product for the DIY gunsmith

I read all the reviews on this product before I purchased it, and I was very nervous because of all the reviews about clogged nozzles and spray issues. SO I purchased all the replacement nozzles and clean-out nozzle. Live and learn, shake the can as directed & turn it upside down when down to clean out the nozzle and you will be fine. I sprayed my parts on an 81 degree day in my shed. The paint covered like a dream, sprayed 3 light coats and it looks like a pro did it. Now time to wait 10-14 days, might be faster as my shed when closed up is about 95 degrees in the summer and has great air circulation. I will post again once parts are cured and ready to build!

Excellent refinish at affordable cost

I changed the color of a 10/22 receiver, barrel, and trigger housing using the Coyote color. It can best be described as a lighter shade of O.D. green. Do not be dissuaded by some of the reviews that claim it is hard to use. Follow the instructions and you will have no problems at all. I like the fact that it blended well without runs if you use light even coats and steady strokes. The finished results are durable, attractive, and much less expensive than paying for a Cerakote refinisher. Unless you mistreat your rifle this finish will last for years. I sanded the finish with 1200 grit sandpaper which was wet and contained a drop of liquid dishwashing soap. It gave me a professional satin appearance on the rifle barrel and receiver. VERY PLEASED with this product.

Battleship Gray

I went in knowing that it wasn't a shiny stainless color like the name implied. Exactly what I needed. The nozzle doesn't clog as quickly as some reviews seem to say. I used mine for a total of maybe 20 min. As with any spray paint, the key to keeping a clear nozzle is to clean it out when you are done. Hold it upside down and spray until you see only propellant coming out. For the speed cure, I only baked for about an hour at 200 degrees because I was impatient and it came out fine. The hardest part of using this was probably getting the cap off. It wasn't very intuitive, and I ended up cutting the whole thing off instead. Also, attached a picture for you all below. Compare the frame color to the white "Olight" lettering on the WML.

Great for AR builds / projects!

Excellent product, just bought my third can of the matt black. I read a lot of reviews saying "how difficult" this stuff is to use..BUT I didn't have any issues with paint running, globs, clogged tips, ect. Just watch the instructional video on the Brownells site (they have some of the best informative videos on their products) and make sure your parts are properly prepped and degreased. The paint adhered great on both my sandblasted parts and those that were just degreased. I did 4 coats on my lowers and let them cure for about 2 weeks. This stuff works great and holds up to the abuse. Follow the directions and it won't let you down.