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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Nice

Decided to try this on a mag body first. 2 light base 10 min apart then a final med coat to finish. Turned out great. Mbus fde (left) compared to black pmag coated with aluma hyde in magpul fde (right)

Best paint from a can period!

I am not a guy who goes and posts reviews normally, but this product far exceeded my expectations. I have professional auto body painting experience, and used many other "spray bombs." I followed the in instructions and cleaned the parts well, made sure to mix the paint well and sprayed the items with 2 coats with approximately 5-10 minutes time between. (temp was 75-80 and low humidity). I left the parts hanging on wire (bent coat hangers) to flash up for about an hour. I then placed the hanging in the oven for 3 1/2 hours @ 195 degrees. Amazing, covered a 12" handguard, 2 grips, magazines, etc, and still have paint left. Not an exact match as the injected molded Magpul parts but very close, and surprisingly durable.

Awesome Product

I love this stuff! I thought it was going to be a paint substance but its not its like a plastic coating. I tried scratching it with my finger nail to see how durable it is and expected it to show some kind of scratch but there was no scratch at all. It felt very durable, seems like its going last a long time.

Perfect

Most perfect specialty paint I've ever used. Spray was perfect, coverage was perfect, very smooth even finish. Instantly self leveling. Looks great. Very easy to use. Don't know about longevity but rifle will seldom be used. Great product.

Pretty:)

Sometimes you just cannot find that FDE part for your FDE Firearm!! I love my 7.62x51 rifles I have my black one for longer range and more precision ammo. I have an FDE lightweight one for trail and it's more personal defense against bears and cougars. So They eat different ammo. Alumahyde is great for magazines especially since few companies besides Lancer offer FDE 308 mags. It is extremely tough the color match is great. It's not that soft easily scratched rattle can paint you get off the shelf. To speed cure I use a convection oven at 195 degrees or it is 14 days. Polymer magazines withstand speed curing with ease.

tough and somewhat self lubricating.

This stuff is much tougher than any rattle can enamels or acrylic. The Surface is slick after full cure. I put it on a worn charging handle. If it is an item that can take 195 degrees pop it in the oven at 3 hours 30 minutes otherwise it's a 14 day full cure. I baked my charging handle and it looked like new and I noticed it glides quieter and smoother and the Alumahyde has not started to wear even during or after cleaning.

Great product!

I used Flat Black, Magpul FDE and OD Green Aluma-Hyde II to paint a tiger-stripe camo pattern on my Micro-Roni. I was concerned because other products did not wear as well or required that their product be baked on (not a good idea to put polymer parts in the oven). Aluma-Hyde will cure completely without baking, is longer lasting than other spray-on products and is easy to use! I am very happy with the results and I'm trying to figure out what to do for my next project!

Tips for your Aluma-Hyde journey

First off, this stuff is great. Seems like most people are struggling in the application or remove. 1. The can clogs very easily. Get an eye dropper and a bottle of paint thinner. When the can goes dead or sputters, remove the nozzle and drop some paint thinner into the port of the can itself. Start spraying (some should come out), then redo the paint thinner one more time. It won't clog again for the rest of your spray. It will clog the next time you use it, but repeat the process. People are claiming the cans lose aerosol, but this trick will bring cans back to life, I promise it's just clogged at the tip of the can. 2. Some nozzles are unsaveable. Buy spare tips from Brownells. These have a larger port than regular rattle cans, so don't try the standard replacement ones from the store. 3. When you want to remove Aluma-Hyde, search YT for a video about removing it. Basically, you put Kwik-strip paint stripper on it, wait for it to bubble, then it wipes off like wet paper. Scrub it with warm water and soap. No sanding, filing, or sandblasting. It should take less than 20 minutes. Careful using paint stripper on plastic parts. I've only removed this from metal parts, so YMMV. This stuff goes on easy, it's tough, and it's not permanent if you don't want it to be. Good luck everyone. Brownells, you should put these tips in your description.

Good Adhesion, Great Customer Service

The color match is near perfect. It was easy to apply if you've ever spray painted anything in your life until it started clogging. I nearly finished the entire gun. I emailed customer support on the weekend and they responded the following Monday. After explaining my situation they informed me that they would send me a new can to finish my gun. Make sure you wear a mask in a well ventilated space, this stuff is thick and gets everywhere but atomizes pretty quickly so the dust that settles can be wiped off any surfaces that get dirty. I spent time prepping prior with isopropyl and heated up all metal parts to about 200 to cook off any residual oil, then some steel wool and another wipe down with alcohol on a microfiber cloth. Be diligent with prep. I did bake it after paint at 220 for 3 hours and that hardened it up pretty quickly. It's been a week and I've been getting great compliments and it seems pretty hard. Went on to bare aluminum.

Dries fast and smooth

This can of paint sprays on thick at first, but give it a few minutes, and the finish smoothens out and it becomes dry enough to touch after 15-20 mins. Not bad for something that is a fraction of the cost of Duracoat aerosol. Only gripe i can think of for this product, is that I wish Brownells expanded their color palette and made more colors to choose from. Otherwise, this stuff is good to go in my books.