Fall Build Fest Continues - 15% OFF GUN PARTS THIS WEEK
Use Code: PARTS15

1-DAY FLASH SALE - 10% Off Fusion Firearms Competition 1911s! Use Code: FUSION10

ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

View Product

Write a review

Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

Sort by Filter by rating

Quality Pennies On The Dollar

Project: Colt / Umarex M4 Ops 20 Round 22 LR Magazines and Rail Hand Guards (black plastic polymer parts). Application: Used 1 (one) can of FDE color to match the other FDE furniture installed. Coverage: The 1 can was enough for 4 magazines and a set of hand guard rails. Process: Disassembled the magazines (screws, springs, plungers, floor plates,etc). Washed magazine shell halves and hand guards in hot water & Dawn dish soap. Rinsed and let air dry overnight. Masked off the magazines feed ramp block then applied 4 light coats to all parts with 1 hour (changed to new nozzle after each coat). Let air dry for a couple of hours then baked at 150 deg F for 2 more hrs. Further left to cure for another week prior to magazine reassembly. Result: Achieved 95% color match to the Magpul molded parts (painted parts slightly lighter in color). Tough as nails finish acquired at a much less cost when compared to other alternatives such as Cerakote. Will use Alum-Hyde again.

Absolutely Awesome!!!

I bought a can of this about a month ago to Paint a CVC helmet. This helmet before Painting looked absolutely horrible. I prepd the helmet very well and then followed the directions for paintimg (which I suggest everyone does as it's not the same as a $3 can of krylon) you need to follow the directions to get the proper coating and wear resistance this paint offers. And it is awesome and amazingly tough!

Great finish!

I used this to paint different parts on a rifle. The finish is very nice. It seems durable. Prep and cure it correctly. It won't last forever but I think it will wear well!

Excellent finish

AlumaHyde is super easy to use if you just take some care in your preparation and make sure that you warm and SHAKETY SHAKE++ the cans prior to application, and clean the nozzles with mineral spirits and an air compressor IMMEDIATELY after. If you lightly sandblast your parts before spraying, it creates the closest finish to parkerizing that I have ever seen without actually parkerizing. I would recommend the regular "Grey parkerize" if you just want grey, as the "Dark grey parkerize" isn't any darker that I can see, it just has a slight green tint to it like you would see with WWII American MILSURP guns. I completely refinished two firearms and magazines with each color, and both turned out fantastic, but the pure grey VS grey-green is something to be aware of. I will definitely buy more cans in more colors for my refinishing needs.

Works well IF you follow directions

At first I was hesitant to try Aluma-Hyde due to erratic reviews. Thinking the less favorable ones may be due to user error I tried it. It worked very well. However, like most paint products the final result is only as good as surface and material prep, not to mention proper drying. A clean, contaminant free surface is essential. I got excellent results with Brownell's degreaser. Application directions are also key. 3-4 light coats, with a "flash dry" using a heat gun between coats followed by 3.5 hours at 195 degrees. A convection oven worked great. I leave it to cure a few more days at room temperature. With proper drying and curing the finish is durable. Is it cerakote? No. Better than spray paint? Absolutely. My only suggestion to Brownells is to make the directions even clearer and bolder. Would likely save a number of negative reviews. Then again, some people don't read them and then complain when things go bad.

Nice

Decided to try this on a mag body first. 2 light base 10 min apart then a final med coat to finish. Turned out great. Mbus fde (left) compared to black pmag coated with aluma hyde in magpul fde (right)

Best paint from a can period!

I am not a guy who goes and posts reviews normally, but this product far exceeded my expectations. I have professional auto body painting experience, and used many other "spray bombs." I followed the in instructions and cleaned the parts well, made sure to mix the paint well and sprayed the items with 2 coats with approximately 5-10 minutes time between. (temp was 75-80 and low humidity). I left the parts hanging on wire (bent coat hangers) to flash up for about an hour. I then placed the hanging in the oven for 3 1/2 hours @ 195 degrees. Amazing, covered a 12" handguard, 2 grips, magazines, etc, and still have paint left. Not an exact match as the injected molded Magpul parts but very close, and surprisingly durable.

Awesome Product

I love this stuff! I thought it was going to be a paint substance but its not its like a plastic coating. I tried scratching it with my finger nail to see how durable it is and expected it to show some kind of scratch but there was no scratch at all. It felt very durable, seems like its going last a long time.

Perfect

Most perfect specialty paint I've ever used. Spray was perfect, coverage was perfect, very smooth even finish. Instantly self leveling. Looks great. Very easy to use. Don't know about longevity but rifle will seldom be used. Great product.

Pretty:)

Sometimes you just cannot find that FDE part for your FDE Firearm!! I love my 7.62x51 rifles I have my black one for longer range and more precision ammo. I have an FDE lightweight one for trail and it's more personal defense against bears and cougars. So They eat different ammo. Alumahyde is great for magazines especially since few companies besides Lancer offer FDE 308 mags. It is extremely tough the color match is great. It's not that soft easily scratched rattle can paint you get off the shelf. To speed cure I use a convection oven at 195 degrees or it is 14 days. Polymer magazines withstand speed curing with ease.