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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Best Match for Magpul FDE Parts

I used Alumahyde Coyote a few years ago and it was a great match for Magpul FDE but they've changed the formula. I just sprayed a mag this weekend with the New Coyote and it's lighter greener/grayer than Magpul FDE. The New Magpul FDE version looks like it's the Old Coyote and matches real Magpul FDE parts very well. There is a sheen difference as Magpul parts are flat and the paint goes on more satin or semi-gloss. Anyway I had to try a lot of combo's of backgrounds and lighting to get a good pic of the difference. In the pic we have Magpul grip, stock, rail protectors and a Bushnell scope painted the original Coyote. The mag on the left is new Coyote and the mag on the right is Magpul FDE.

THE BEST YOU CAN GET SHORT OF A BAKED ON

I have used several colors for camo or single color coatings on firearms provided you prep the items & allow them to dry properly the finish is very nice this is my 5th can & will not be my last.

Very Impressed with this Paint

I'm a professional painter for over 20yrs. I have seen a d used just about every product out there. So many paints make claims about durability and quality and sadly much to often its complete BS. Prep work is definitely the #1 important thing for a good long lasting paint job and 2nd being good paint applied correctly. Well I wasn't expecting much more out of this Alumahyde then a little better then rustoleum. Well I was very much so surprised and very very pleased. You do need to do your prep work very well and follow the directions on how to apply and if you do you will be extremely happy with this paint. Its 1/4 the cost of Cerakote and pretty close to its equal. It's not equal but it's close. Thus paints durability really surprised me. My buffer tube which gets a ton of friction/movement from the stock constantly sliding up and down it you would thing it would chip or mark up easily. Well my tibe is 4 months old and not a single chip or scratch or anything Its looks perfect. That's impressive. The pic of the SBA3 is the buffer tube I mentioned. I just painted the SOPMOD and it came out perfect.

Overall, pretty good

After reading all the negative reviews about this stuff being hard to use, I was reluctant. But I did a test-spray on a piece of scrap, and it honestly didn't seem much different than any other rattle-can spray paint. Maybe a little bit thicker, but still just spray paint. I shook the can for 3 or 4 minutes, then put it in a bucket of hot tap water for 15 minutes or so, taking it out every 5 minutes to shake it for another minute. I used the Matte Black, so perhaps the sputtering and other weird stuff is just a problem with some of the other colors. I didn't have any problems with clumping or speckling, it went on nice and smooth. It does have a tiny amount of surface texture if you look closely, it's not perfectly smooth like normal spray paint. The original nozzle did clog after about 20 minutes, and then things started sputtering. Changed out to one of the replacement nozzles and it went back to normal. (yeah, if you buy Alumahyde, spend the three bucks for the spare nozzle pack. I didn't get the clean-out nozzle though). As to drying time, I left mine hanging overnight and it was touchable the next day. The two-week cure is a bit of a bummer, but if it makes a durable coating, I guess it's worth it. I'm hanging my parts out in the sun during the day to hopefully speed up the curing a bit - I'm none too keen to risk the wife's wrath by putting this in the oven to speed it up. I can't speak to longevity of the product yet, as I just painted my parts two days ago, but if this really is tougher than regular spray paint after it cures, then it's a good product.

Aluma-hyde 2 FDE

This epoxy paint is easy to apply and after curing it has a very strong, scratch resistant surface. You do need to shake it well and apply it in several light coats. The FDE paint color was slightly lighter than my Magpul butt stock and MDT chassis, but not by much (still better than a gloss black adapter). Overall a great product for a good price.

great product

I was hesitant to get this since a lot of the negative reviews were saying the color was off, but mine was true to color and turned out great. I used it for a camo pattern. Prepped surfaces per the standard, used "Coyote" as base coat, applied stencils, "Parkerizing Grey" for second color, then used "Matte Black" for 3rd color. Finished with a light mist of "Matte Black" to darken it up. I went against convention by only waiting a day between coats, but I did bake for 2hrs at 170* after each coat. I will let it sit for a week before re-assemble.

This stuff is great!

Just dont put it on too thick and keep shaking the can. Dont hesitate to change nozzles frequently. I always test spray on cardboard to make sure nozzle is not clogged. I use a hair dryer for about 5 minutes and leave it alone for a few days. Just wish they had more colors. Better than Cerakote any day. Nothing to clean up. Just use a new nozzle next time.

Great coverage and color match

Great color and durable. I used it for the base coat on a camo job. Make sure to buy the extra tips for multiple uses.

Aluma- Hyde matte black

Worked great on my Beretta 92 compact frame. I had dehorned the trigger guard which left raw aluminum showing. I refinished the frame in matte black which looked almost identicle to the original anodizing. Follow the instructions and you shouldn't have any issues.

TOUGH

I have used every single color. Some observations: The Matte Black is not "Flat", it's Matte. The variation between Coyote and Magpul FDE is a slight greenish for the Magpul, more Brownish for the Coyote. First, my procedure: 1) Prep with MEK or denature alcohol. I soak whatever the part I'm coating overnight in MEK. 2) If previously coated Blast with 150gr AlO2 and then the soak . 3) Air Dry or Blow dry. keep rags away. 4) The Item needs to be >80deg F to coat. Fully allow the Solvent to flash off. You can use a Blow dryer to expedite. 5) I bake mine in a large countertop Convection oven 250deg F for 3hrs. You can leave untouched by insects, etc for 30 days at 80degF.. NOTE: This 250degF limitit is crucial for the Desert Tan and the SS colors. If out go 300>degF the SS takes on a "greenish" Hue. The Desert Tan takes on a "Pinkish" Hue. The other colors are unaffected by temp. When applied as above this stuff is TOUGH!!! Don't think Krylon. Think Cerakote in a Rattle Can.