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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Aluma Hyde ll

I love this product! Easy to use, extremely durable, will use again!

by DOUGLAS YATES on August 01, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 1

Good stuff

I have used this paint on multiple firearms. The results on all projects were great. The last job, a multi-color camo scheme, was fantastic. I baked the parts for 3 hours at 195 degrees between color applications. The paint is as durable as I could ever expect. Only con is the unavailability of nozzles. They are one time use, in my opinion. The paint is thick and it dries quick. For large projects, you'll want multiple.

by Andy on July 24, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 3

Ignore the bad reviews, this stuff is great

Not sure how some people are managing to get bad results with this stuff. My can didn't have a shaker ball so I just shook the can for a few extra minutes and the gun turned out looking awesome. I missed some spots, but that was due to my own negligence NOT the Aluma-Hyde's fault. Buy this stuff if they have the color you want; just make sure you clean all surfaces, check youtube for general practices when using any type of spray paint, shake the hell out of the can, and hold the can a couple inches closer than you might think (just make sure you keep the spray moving across the parts and don't hold in one place). It's not difficult, I think people here are expecting a $15 can of spray paint to look like a $500 cerakote job. If you have real expectations and do you part, you'll be plenty happy with the result.

by Bill on July 12, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 1

Renewal of old firearm

Several years ago I bought an old savage rifle that looked like it'd been carried around in the back of a pickup truck for a few years no bluing left no covering of any kind of other than bare metal. I waited for a 90 plus degree day. Taped up the trigger and sprayed the action and barrel. Looks like new to this day

Covection toaster oven is made for this stuff, just don't tell my wife.

I had a reliable inexpensive Taurus PT-709 slim, that I carried appendix carry in the summer under my T-Shirts that rusted the slide from sweat. I replaced that with a new PT-709 Slim and used Magpul FDE on the slide, let it hang dry in the garage for a few days, then baked it in the table top convection oven. Been carrying it off and on for 3 years now and the coating is hard as a nail and not a scratch or sign of rust on the slide. I am contemplating doing an old Colt Officers ACP Lightweight slide as well as it could use a new finish just from age. Take your time with light coats over a few days, dry cure it, don't be in a hurry. Then when the finish is nice and even, bake it on in low heat. Worked for me.

1st time painting Gun slide, barrel & frame

I wanted to give some texture to my barrel, so I sanded the entire barrel with 320 grit. The slide is my first one ever purchased and it’s been blued, then cleaned and buffed to a mirror finish, then blued again. The frame was my 1st P80 and back then I could only get a Tan color? I decided to practice, I cleaned all 3 items, hung from a line & with a wire attached, I sprayed 3. Coats on all. So far I’m impressed!!This was the Matt black. I’ve ordered the Wolf Gray and shiny black for my next build. Great product!

by Franz Cowhig on June 15, 2023

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Was this review helpful? 8

Good advice

Another recommendation is to go visit a body or paint shop and see if you can watch the technique that they use to paint parts. You don’t just hold the nozzle down the whole entire time and move the Cannes around. There is a method to the madness. Once you get it, try it on cardboard outside in an area of dirt or something you don’t mind getting messy practice a few times and you’ll have this down. I’ve painted everything from my old firearms to my collector car. And by trade I’m an airline pilot, so it’s not even my job just watch take your time, and be smooth, and like Brownell‘s recommends, paint the part right through the end and onto a junk piece for overflow, and then turning the Cannes upside down and spraying it out after Will clear your nozzle. Best of luck.

Positive Review

After watching the Brownell's video on what NOT do do with this product, I actually found the results excellent. I shook the can for 5 minutes, got my pieces set up, shook it again for a few more minutes and sprayed. I followed the directions on prep and application and I have no complaints. I was really concerned about how others reviewed their outcomes, but, I was extremely pleased with my results.

Coyote and Stainless Steel

Good coverage. I had a gloss black one. Cant even pick it out of the upper that came already painted. I also only use these on blem raw uppers and handguards. Make it a point to clean the surface and make even passes with the spray. Lastly, let it fully cure

Good stuff I used the FDE and good match to magpul.

Perfect result looks professional. Like all paint cans soak the can in hot water for 10 minute about 80deg water then shake it well at least 5 minutes. I put the can on my harbor freight rock tumbler base and let it roll for a good 10 minutes or you can tape the cap onto the can and put it inside your ammo tumbler and let it stir away. Most important as with all paint cans is heat it up before shaking it will is the key to a good paint job out a can