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ALUMA-HYDE® II

ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.






INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary
Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.
What Reviewers Are Saying
Application Process
70%
Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.
Durability
65%
The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.
Color Match
60%
Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.
Nozzle and Clogging Issues
55%
Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.
Value for Money
75%
Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.
5
Alumahyde 2 applications
Great stuff! Have used this product many times and always gives me a great looking and tough finish. Prep is everything.
5
Good stuff
Matte black was exactly as I expected. Worked great with single medium coat. Be sure to use cleanout nozzle when finished, then put on regular nozzle and clear it also.
5
Quality!
I purchased several colors of this for various projects and achieved GREAT results! Thanks! Will Brownells bring these back?
5
Aluma Hyde 2
I have used this on many things made of aluminum tin ect. I have found that if you heat up water to boiling pull it off the heat set can in it for a couple minutes dry can well and shake TF out of it . Keep 10-12” from what you are spraying and it will lay on consistently. I not only do firearms with this product. I do countless motorcycle parts that I want. Blacked out 91% alcohol is what I used to clean the parts off with before spraying.
5
Great option opposed to regular spray paint.
Went on smooth . The can is higher pressure than your regular rattle can paint. Easy to put on too heavy. Although i haven't tested durability. Dropped parts and minor bumps did nothing to finish. Excellent on polymers and stuff lioe magazine. Very flat if prepped properly.
5
Great Paint
I painted a new carbon steel barrel without sand blasting. I just thouroughly wiped it down with TCE degreeser before painting. It was 65 degrees out, which the instructions say is the minimum temperature to paint. WARNING: The first glob of paint that comes out is a mess, so don't immediately start spraying the object. I had to wipe it down with TCE and start over. I did several light coats, hanging the barrel vertically, and it turned out great. The finish is semi-flat, and kind of looks as if I bead blasted the metal, but I didn't. I let it dry for about an hour, and then put it in my kitchen oven at 195 for three hours, as instructed. Keep in mind it says you don't have to bake it, but I figured it couldn't hurt. It didn't stink too bad, but I had the stove fan on full blast. I hung it with bailing wire from the two threaded ends, and when I removed it the next day, I accidently was reckless with a sharp end of the bailing wire, but it didn't even scratch the paint. When I installed the barrel, I used leather in the barrel vice, and torqued to 45. I had no slippage, but the process left no marks on the paint. I could not be happier, especially for the price. I didn't want to spend too much, but I'm happier with this Brownell's Aluma-hyde than I was with some Duracote that I used before. I can't speak for solvent resistance, but that wasn't important for my application. Mine also came with an extra nozzle, which I didn't need.
5
The Good Stuff
This is likely the toughest paint you can get for guns. It sticks, it cures and it's seriously permanent. This epoxy paint is the good stuff.
5
Toughest spray can
Pick your favorite color, follow Caleb’s video clips and paint away. Durable for a spray can finish against normal gun cleaning agents and oils. Turned at least 4 of my stainless guns a bit more subtle for hunting. Tape off what you don’t want covered and go for it. My only gripe is color differences of the actual paint aren’t as dramatic as the caps between FFE, ODG, & Coyote Brown. Desert Sand is very light. Good quality finish if you follow instructions.
5
Gun paint
It should be great. I have not used it yet.
5
Stainless steel gray
This product makes you paint like a pro. Follow the instructions and bake this thing 3 1/2 hours at 195. You can’t go wrong it’s solid didn’t clog up one bit three coats 20 minutes apart and this is my end result. Feels like it’s the metal. No runs very easy to spray and clear. Looks like o bought the gun this way