BROWNELLS - 5 Brass Lap For .44-.45 Caliber

used with a fine grit past gets the chamfering cut to a high polished finish.a must have tool for that professional looking job.

Using this lap with non embedding polishing compound after cutting a 11 degree forcing cone will give you a smooth surface that lead won't stick to.

The factory crown was rough and eccentric on my 10/22T, so I cut my barrel, polished the new muzzle on a disk sander perfectly smooth and flat, threaded this lap onto my brass cleaning rods (bought at W**Mart), then taped the rod with enough teflon plumber's tape every 4" to barely fit into the barrel (the tape squishes flat as it goes into the bore, so put plenty on), loaded the lap with a little cerium oxide abrasive (used to pitch lap telescope mirrors) mixed with Lucas Red #2 wheel grease (to form a paste) and then attached my cordless drill to the end of the brass rod sticking out of the barrel's breech end. Go slow, check progress often. You want to "just" polish down to the point where the muzzle's lands "almost" touch the grooves. Then use a bit of 1000 grit rouge (also called crocus) cloth wrapped around the tool instead of the abrasive paste to make a 1 or 2 thousands deep "ring" which is barely visible at your muzzle to finish the transition from the barrel lands to groove depth which, if done with care, will give you a better crown than anything money can buy. Go slow, think and shoot straight. The teflon tape around your cleaning rod should keep your bore safe. Be sure not to contaminate the bore with abrasive by only using a paste -- never powdered abrasives by themselves. This process requires hours of work to do it best, but a fine crown is critical to best accuracy if you're a paper puncher. Finish by giving your bore a Brownell's JB Borepaste treatment using first a cleaning brush loaded up for 20 strokes or so, then a cleaning patch with more JB on a tight fitting jag, clean thoughly, oil the bore, patch dry and shoot em up more like the big dollar guns.