EXPRESS BLUE #1 Reviews & Ratings

Bought this to restore a 1944 P38. This product is so easy to use, and the result was surprisingly good for a first time ever trying to rust blue anything.

Mark Lee's works! Absolutely the most beautiful results I've seen, and so easy to do, just takes a little time..... but much less than the other guys products. Follow directions, prep surface to 320, degrease degrease degrease then wear rubber gloves when applying and use distilled water when you boil. Your firearm will look as good or better than the day it was made.

I used this product to blue some steel rods, similar to bluing a gun barrel. Brownells has a great selection of bluing products. I easily compared them and chose the one that was right for me. The Mark Lee Express Blue #1 worked very well for this application. It was a relatively easy process and it resulted in a very uniform and durable finish. I plan to use it for a variety of other applications.

The product works best using the instructions online at the markleesupplies.com which are not the same as the instructions supplied with the product. Both sets of instructions work but the online set has some better tips, & delivers a quicker process. Best results are achieved with a 400 grit sanded steel finish well-cleaned surface. The first application (3 coats, heated with a torch or heat gun before and after each coat, then boiled two minutes) is most critical for a good start. Several iterations can be done in a few hours time to deliver the desired color density. Ive used it on three firearms. And I like the ease over hot dip blue processes.

This is my first experance with Mark Lee Express Blue. I have been using the Classic Rust Blue. There is no compairison time wise. The deep blue that it gives the metal is great. I had a high polish on the metal used Brownells White wheel compound. I couldn't believe how it was as deep of blue, almost black and still had the high polish shine showing. Can't say how durable it is but the carding wheel had no affect on it even using a fair amount on pressure.

When used according to the instructions this product produces an attractive, durable finish. Because of the requirement to boil the parts during the process for me it's use is restricted to handguns and parts- rifle and shotgun barrels are too big for me to boil. I have had my best, most consistent results sanding to no higher than 280grit, and instead of a torch I use a toaster oven set to 225 degrees to heat the parts. It takes longer, but the end result is worth it. I've also found that Dawn dishwashing liquid does an excellent job cleaning and degreasing the parts. Highly recommended.

Great. So much easier and faster that slow rust. I needed about 5-6 cycles, which I could complete in about 30 min per cycle of heat, apply x2, boil, polish. I did have privilege of using my cerakote oven to heat the metal.

This is for home smiths who want drop dead gorgeous steel and durability who can't afford or don't want to deal with hot blue equipment. I'll never go back to cold blues except for touch-up work. Used it on a couple of Winchester .22's (Models 67 & 74) family heirlooms in need of tlc. Took a full 8 hours to do BUT it was faster than other slow rust blue solutions. I'm absolutely amazed at the finish quality. Looks better than factory hot blues imo. Tips: Finish your metal up to 400 grit, any higher and your wasting your time. The better your metal work, the better the finish. Thoroughly de-grease your parts. Use Distilled water Use a torch to heat the metal, a heat gun will not do for rifle barrels. Get the 2 or 4 row carding wheel Brownell's sells and the carding "toothbrush". they work better than steel wool and gives a better polish to the finish.

My RIA 1911 tactical came parked but was looking pretty bad on the frame. Frame looked green/brown after many years. I stripped it (320 sandpaper made easy work!). About 6 hours of work and i have a beautiful 1911 again. Nice, deep black. VERY simple process. Not too different from doing cold blue CORRECTLY but this will stay! Finished the pistol off with bone grips.

I have always wanted a way to get a good old fashioned rust blue finish, but most processes require a lot of time and are very temperamental. I used Express Blue #1 to blue some parts for a Winchester 1890 restoration. I didn't expect much, but I was very surprised to see what a nice finish it created, and in a much faster time. It's still not easy. You need get prepared with the right setup and you have to follow the directions, but it's very doable. I used a carding wheel and brush from Brownells between coats and I recommend it over steel wool. It does a better job, is less messy, and is easier to use. I cure the finish in CLP (see picture. The results look great.