CERAKOTE - CERAKOTE AIR-DRY CERAMIC COATINGS

I have never done any sort of application like this on a firearm, but always wanted to try. I applied it to a bead blasted Savage rifle that has tons of surface rust on it. I used a spray pen style application. Beauty of it, no dilution needed! I shook it per the instructions, poured into the hopper, did a few test sprays to see where it was going and started applying. I applied this to all the components of the trigger group, bolt (minus the exterior), and rifle. I was super pleased with the application. As long as you do your part, it wont run. I applied it a touch heavy on my magazine, so the bolt drags on it. But, after 50 rounds or so through the gun, it still drags. Which means the material is sticking and doing exactly what it's supposed to do. I did notice after application I went light in some spots, and it's very hard to tell when applying. Being my first time, I thought I did very well and couldn't ask for more from the product. Very happy with it and will be getting more.

Simple easy to use. I used Perval paint sprayers for mine, and worked wonderfully. You don't need expensive air brush or paint sprayers to use this. Make sure you prep you item properly first, shake the bottle of Cerakote well ahead of time, and have fun.

Some time ago i send a government .380 to rebluing, but the armorer was not good and give it a brown color that not fit frame, i bought this product and after a little sanding and detailing painted with airbrush. The result is awesome. Beautiful in a word. I do recomend it very plenty.

I just finished my third rifle with this product. I have a little background in painting cars and motorcycles. I have been using an airbrush and it works very well for the application. I have also done a Valdada and Trijicon scope. I have used flat dark earth, black,OD green and now the sniper grey. The real trick is the same as all good paint jobs preparation. You have to disassemble everything. I did two AR's a 223 and a 308. It takes at least two to three hours to prep an AR for coating. I use acetone for cleaning. The best way is to put in a bucket or pan and use a new paintbrush to clean it then clean it again. Then blast or sand EVERYTHING. Then before painting wipe down with alcohol. You can paint it quickly because the stuff doesn't run easily. I lay it on pretty heavy for a thicker finish. I also bake on the air dry when possible. I wait about an hour then bake it at 170 for 1\2 hour then another couple hours at 200. If you are able to do this step you can put it right back together as soon as it's cool. I have had unbelievable results. Everything looks as is it came from the factory with the finish already applied. So far ( about a year I have not had any trouble at all with durability. This stuff looks good and is very tough. Just remember prep, prep,prep and you will have a job you will be proud of.

I have coated 3 guns with the air dry version and had to redo one that I used an air brush on which splattered the coating. Once I got a touch up gun all went well. Two coats are better than one and must be applied wet, dry it will not stick to itself. It is very thin .001 and like bluing the metal must be well prepared then sand blasted. But when the two coats set up, it is a very tough coating and becomes a semi gloss. Two coats wet is how you go from a flat to a semi gloss.