best solder
best solder i know of for resoldering double barrels has high enough melting piont that barrels can be hot blued after soldering if you use care.
Would you recommend this?
Yes, I would recommend to a friend
Solder
Good product fast delivery works good and easy to use
Sweet!
This stuff was better than expected melts very quickly so be prepared.use the flux they recommend for the materials your soldering. Appears to be very strong but I haven't done any destructive testing yet. I did a rem 700 bolt handle that was way out of time. Took more time to remove original handle and clean up the factory garbage, which had less than 50% bond. But now she's good to go. Amazing when you take ten minutes to do something right. But that's half the fun of smithing.
44 high force solder
used when making a Winchester 1894 takedown. After machining a brass plate the solder was used to sweat the brass plate to the barrel. This solder is not affected by boiling water when rust bluing.
Works as it Should
First time using the product and it worked great for me. Clean metal, degrease well, apply flux with Q tip, heat to temp, apply solder, wipe with Q tip saturated in flux to tin. Do this to each part allow them to cool some and clamp them together. Reheat and let solder flow and lock the joint together. Creates a solid union without much fuss. I would use it again or recommend it to someone else. I used the recommended Comet #4 flux by the way.
Solder Repair
Used to attatch a replacement sight on a New Model Ruger Blackhawk. Solder flowed well on the fluxed surfaces using a propane torch. Took the gun to the range and shot 200 rnds of heavy loads and the sight stayed put.
Works well
I used this to repair a broken lug on the underside of a single shot shotgun. I used a MAP torch to speed the heating but propane would have worked. It is easy to work with and holds well.
Hi-Force 44 wire
flows well at low temp
reattaching ribs
The only thing that could improve this is offering it slightly wider. I run it through the rolling mill about 1/2 the time to get it a little wider. This and the Comet flux has made this job far easier than I thought possible - sort of no sweat sweating. Be ready to snug up the jig as it flows and give the part plenty of time too cool before loosening.
Requires practice
I bought the ribbon instead of the wire. In retrospect this may have been a mistake because it was difficult to determine how small of a piece I needed, place it on a warm surface, melt it by heating the metal, and spread it (tinning). I think this process would have been easier to accomplish if I had used the wire. I also discovered through trial and error that the right flux is critical, otherwise the solder will ball up and fall off. Brownell's recommends their #4 Comet flux which is a liquid. They also say you must warm each part, apply flux to them, then melt (tin) the solder onto each piece. After the parts cool you should tightly press them together and reheat the metal until the flux and solder flow, adding a thin coat of flux along the edged with a fine metal point. I found it was necessary to use an infrared thermometer to prevent overheating the solder. This required heating the parts, checking their temp, and reheating as needed, always moving the torch about or away from the parts. It does take some practice.
