CLASSIC RUST BLUE Reviews & Ratings

I've used several bottles of this to good effect, primarily in rebluing antique and C&R rimfire rifles. A few lessons learned: 1. be patient and let the brown rust fully develop before boiling or steaming - rushing the process results in more applications, more time, and more money. 2. neutralize the surface after the final carding. A quick wipedown with a rag with some water and baking soda will keep any residual product from forming additional brown oxides on the surface later. Skip this step at your own peril and the risk of your finished product. 3. rust bluing doesn't work on all steel - I've found that some early, cast steel receivers don't take rust bluing and will streak. Additionally steels with alternative surface coatings tend to resist rust bluing (charcoal-blued and color case hardened receivers don't like to rust blue, they need to be annealed and polished first) 4. it isn't necessary to strip and polish out the receivers. if you have a rifle with a consistent surface finish you can get away with cleaning it well (acetone is your friend), converting by steaming or boiling, then applying the bluing chemicals. bluing is additive, so it'll apply right over the original finish. I've applied over both rust blued and hot-salt blued finishes with good results. 5. the finish will be a satin-sheen - don't expect a high polish like you'd find on a caustic salt or charcoal blued part. 6. one bottle goes a long way. figure that with careful applications you can do 5-10 rifles with one bottle. I use the cheap, disposable cotton pads to apply the chemicals (ask your wife, she has some in her makeup drawer...). 7. wear gloves. if in doubt give the part a wipedown with acetone between applications to remove any oils. remember: gloves can get oil on them too... Overall the product works great. I have other products I prefer, but the price on Brownells is hard to beat, and it gives a consistent finish that blends well.

I'm starting out and trying this for business purposes. I have the Great Model 8 Barrel Service Tool Co. The tools are made from 4140PH. Doing my testing and research, I diluted the solution 1:1 and it works beautifully with my home made damp box. I have used it straight out of the bottle on smaller parts and other mild steel, works like a charm. I recommend this to anyone trying out rust bluing. It's fun learning something new.

I've been using Brownells Oxpho Blue Creme for bluing work...slides and even an entire pistol. It's the finest cold blue on the market but as with all cold blues...lacks durability compared to factory blue. I decided to up my game and try rust bluing...this is truly a superior product. It's not at all difficult to do but it is time consuming and you have to be meticulous in following the procedure. It does an incredible job of bluing. The first coat was a bit alarming to see all the rust forming...the instructions said it would...but following coats made for a beatify finish. I lost count of all the rounds I made of coating...boiling...carding...polishing with 0000 steel wool...but the end result was worth it. I followed it up with a slathering of Brownells Water Displacing Oil and let it cure for about 48 hours. I cannot recommend this product enough. If I can do it as ham handed as I can be then anyone should be able to.

I have been using Pilkington's rust blue for years, but it has become hard to find, and rather expensive when it does come available. I decided to give Brownell's rust blue a chance and here is what I found. it is more aggressive than Pilkington's. I use a humidiy box, and you definitley do not need to let it rust as long. In fact I would recommend at half as long. It gives a better first rust to get things started out evenly, and works well throughout. Using a minimum of coats I got a rather black finish with a gray tone to it, but as I add coats it turns more black with a blue tint. Overall it is a good replacement and in many ways better than anything I have used in the past.

Always good service with these folks have called them in the past about something 1911 talked with the gun tech and they treated me like they new me my whole life nice people so would I recommend yes sir

It’s my favorite bluing. Last a long time and the process is very simple. You can put it on blue that’s on the metal currently. You don’t have to polish the metal before the blue. You don’t have to work with creeping burning hot salt.

I have used the product exclusively for years now and found it to be easy to use, following instructions, with excellent results on most steel. Steel metallurgy is different in various steels. Some take bluing much more readily that others and that is a matter of the steel and not the bluing solution.

I needed some rust blue for a project, and after looking at reveiws I bought this because it was also in stock. I've used mark lee rust blue several times. This was about the same.....until I got to the 4th coating, and beyond. Gave an even dark blue that I could not attain with Lee. Brownells is now my go too rust blue!

Follow the instructions and it works great. I've done a number of firearms and haven't had one over rust yet. I have found that seven applications tends to be enough to give professional look.

Let me start off by saying that I am currently still using this product on my first rust bluing job (pistol). I am into my 5th application and I must say this so easy to use. Follow the directions and keep everything clean and you should have no issues. A carding brush is highly recommended for serrations and checkering, otherwise, fine steel wool that has been degreased works best.