Fall Build Fest Continues - 15% OFF GUN PARTS THIS WEEK
Use Code: PARTS15

1-DAY FLASH SALE - 10% Off Fusion Firearms Competition 1911s! Use Code: FUSION10

ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

View Product

Write a review

Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

Sort by Filter by rating

Not brown... not close to the cap color

I would rate this 1 star in terms of color expectation. Literally held the FDE and Earth Brown cans together. They (the caps) are a perfect contrast. BUT when Earth Brown comes out... it is so close to FDE that only my wife can tell the difference. It takes DAYS for this epoxy paint to dry. It is very durable and so, without sandblasting, I am stuck with it. This paint gets 5 stars for spray quality, adhesion, testing my patience (takes more than a week to dry), and durability. Average of Three stars.

Cap color doesn't match

The actual color is a light sand color, no dark brown whatsoever, it's a decent coating and holding up so far, but the colors are extremely misrepresented.

not so great

did not get to finish what I was doing tip got plugged after the third spray tried to unplug it but no doing

ODG Color true to cap

I'm not an arts & crafts person but here's what I learned. You MUST buy extra tips and shake the daylights out of this product. I sprayed in 90 degree weather and my finish came out a little rough. I wasn't expecting professional results anyway. Attached pics: OD green, Coyote, Magpul FDE, & Earth Brown (very little difference between Coyote & FDE).

Not cerakote but it works

I like this product I have been using all the colors for awhile. If you prep right it works. Its reasonably durable. Guys its not cerakote dont be confused this is a diy product not a pro product. I wish there were more colors. A lighter grey, lighter green, robins egg blue would be great.

Works but has a shine

I clear all my camo patterns the only downfall of this is its not truely matte its got a shine to it. Also it darkens the colors a bit.

Not resistant to all solvents

I have used Aluma-Hyde for many years and I like the finish. Like others have reported, you can get a bad can......and if you get a good one, and only use half, don't expect to be able to use the rest of it - even after replacing the nozzle. I accept that, still like this product, and will probably use it again. But there are two things (I have discovered unfortunately by experience) that will eat this coating: Tetra Gun grease and Locktite thread adhesive. Be very careful to avoid coming in contact with these two things, and the coating will be great.

Durable! Not Quite Magpul FDE though

I applied Aluma-Hyde II to a black AR receiver. I scuffed the receiver up as best I could with a green scotchbrite pad (doesn't really cut into the anodizing). I applied 4 light coats and got 100% coverage. I oven cured it to cut down on the shine. It looks good and it's nice paint but it doesn't match colors with a Cerakote FDE. Even Magpul FDE doesn't match. It came out looking more grey or light tan than FDE. If the color doesn't darken when it reaches "full cure" at 2 or so weeks, I'm going to be disappointed.

Not a match!

Wasted $2.59 for replacement nozzles...... didn't even need them. 3 stars because it's not magpul FDE. It is a shade lighter. Other than that it's an OK paint. Should of listened to the reviews on the "coyota" color. Might of been a better match to fde.....

Aluma Hyde 2 as touch-up paint

I put together an Aero Precision M4E1 in FDE cerakote. Quality gun and very accurate, but if you use a gun it will get scratched. AP does not offer a touch-up kit and they should, so it is a pig in a poke to find a color match on the open market. The AH2 Magpul FDE was a much better match than the AH2 Coyote, but it was still a couple shades lighter and glossier than the OEM FDE cerakote finish. You can see the difference about two feet away. Either you like the two tone or use the Coyote (ODG, Gray, etc.) and go camo. Easy to use, just follow the Brownell video. I put the AR upper two feet from a wall heater for a week and it was good to go. All in all, I think next time I will go back to an anodized black and touch-up with Aluma Black. Cerakote just doesn't impress me that much.