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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Good stuff, but doesn't match Magpul FDE

I bought a little $35 Black and Decker toaster oven to heat this to 300 for an hour. It came out beautiful and really is impressive. It doesn't match Magpul FDE in the slightest though. I wish I would have known it didn't match, but I got it to work just fine. I am not one of those posers who think my gun needs to match, so I just painted it to break up the lines a little more and it looks great. It seems pretty durable so far and I can't complain other than the color, but FDE is known for being hard to match, so there is that. Bottom line, quality coating, but no color match to FDE.

not the same color as cap

great product overall but dont go by the cap color, i sprayed this color and coyote brown next to each other and you cant tell them apart, had i known that i wouldnt have purchased both colors. they both are the color of the coyote brown cap!!

DISAPPOINTED Not a True Magpul FDE

When I found this paint I was really excited. I had a black stock and lower that I wanted to match with a FDE upper. Had previously tried some tan rustoleoum but it was too light. So after prepping and painting. I was really disappointed that it seemed to be the same light tan when compared to the upper and legit magpul fde mags. Would not recommend if you're trying to match MAGPUL FDE parts/accessories. What a bummer....

Good when it works

I ordered two cans of this the paint. The first can worked great. The second can didn't work. The paint would sputter out a little. I tried cleaning the nozzle and tried other nozzles but nothing worked.

Much lighter than the color of the cap

Much lighter lighter than the color of the cap, spraying matte clear over it makes it look like semi gloss.

Color nothing like the cap

Looks like battleship gray, no tan or green added.

Results may vary

I bought 1/2 a dozen colors + black and clearcoat, then I cut some strips of aluminum foil and sprayed them, heres how it went. Sprayed on bare foil it took all of the shine off of the foil without any changes in color. When I sprayed it over o.d. green it darkened the color, and made it look like semi gloss. I like the green better with the clear over it. When I sprayed it over ss gray it slightly darkened the gray, but no noticeable gloss. I sprayed it over coyote and again the color slightly darkened and had a semi gloss look. I sprayed it on desert tan and there was no noticeable change. I sprayed it on earth brown and there was no noticeable change in color, but again looked like semi gloss. Last, I sprayed wolf gray and the gray came out of the can with a slight gloss, but the clear did not change it. Of all of the aluma Hyde that I used, only the black actually matched the color of the cap on the can. I have used the black and o.d.green on previous projects, its a good durable coating but you want to spray it on some test material before you commit it to your gun, because the color of the product doesnt match the cap.

Nothing like mag pull coyote

Looks like a mix of tan and gray. Spraying matte clear over it makes it look like semi gloss.

Not quite Magpul FDE.

This is not a perfect match to Magpul FDE. It is a shade lighter, and it has kind of a weird metallic sheen to it under some lighting conditions. Also, this stuff takes forever to cure, so be patient when using it. Its a cheaper alternative to Cerakote, but if I had to do it again, I would just pay my local shop to Cerakote my gun.

Not even close to the color on the cap

The product itself is great, holds up well and is easy to use. However the color on the cap is not even close to what come out of the can. The actual paint is so much lighter and even a different tone.