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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Good stuff

I've used this in the past. thought I'd post a pic this time. This particualr build the stock, lower and handguard were all painted with Alumahyde Coyote. The upper & barrel were done in semi-gloss black. for color reference, the pistol grip is magpul FDE (rubberized) and the rail panels are magpul xt in black & FDE. watch the videos online, take your time and you will have a great finished product. The chips on the stock are the result of something hitting into it BEFORE it cured.

Updated Review

Well i guess i spoke too soon when i originally stated that this color looked more like a cross between Magpul's Foliage Green and FDE. It was just the poor lighting conditions. Once it FULLY dried the color is more of a mix between Magpul's Foliage Green and Olive Drab. I am attaching a pic, hopefully you can judge the color yourself. For reference the rail covers are Magpul XT in Foliage & OD, the grip is Magpul Foliage (rubberized verzion). The stock was a black PRS but painted with the Alumahyde OD paint as was the lower receiver and handguard.

Excellent Results

Previous owner of my Winchester 1200 shotgun had inscribed his SSN in the metal more that 25 years ago so I sanded it out and painted it OD green with Aluma-Hyde II. Looks so good that I'm thinking about painting the lower half of my CZ 9mm. I assembled the gun after only 24 hours and it seems very durable. I followed the instructions exactly and love the results. I'll do it again.

Matches Magpul FDE

People that say it doesnt match Magpul FDE either didnt use it right or are color blind. I sprayed my AR-10 upper and compared it to Magpul FDE furniture and its almost an exact match. I didnt sand it down either. I just degreased the anodized metal and sprayed on 3 very light coats, using a heat gun in between, and then a final heavy coat with heat gun after and it came out amazing. This is the cheapest, best looking, and most durable spray can gun finish on the market. Pro tip - when I'm done spraying I flip the can upside down and spray the paint out of the pickup tube. This let me use the can for a few days of spraying before it clogged the nozzel.

as good as Duracoat

Did my Norc 1911 and so far has held up really good. As good as Duracoat and no air brush.

Durable spray paint!

I've painted 2 AKs and an AR with this paint and am very satisfied with Aluma-Hyde II paint. When surface preparation and application steps are followed as described in the Brownells video, the result will be a professional and durable finish. Be sure to allow for complete curing of the paint. I searched youtube for pattern ideas and am pleased with the result. I get compliments every time I go to the range. Krylon doesn't even compare.

Forget about rust finger prints!

Amazing uniform finish, much better than cold bluing. The restoration of my daughter's Ruger Mk II is just superb. Just be sure to follow the instructions.

Very close match of Magpul FDE

Great stuff. Just give it time to fuly cure. A lot cheaper than Duracote etc. and sticks to about everything.

Matches Magpul FDE furniture

Have used Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote, Earth Brown, and OD Green. Coyote is the closest match to Magpul FDE furniture, the Earth brown is much dark than the Magpul stuff. The OD green is much lighter than Magpul furniture but makes a great two-tone when used with it. I'm in the process of doing a multi colored camo with all three, I hope it comes out as good as the single colors did!

Be patient

This is a great product, but you have to remember do not touch it at all until it is dry! I did a bolt handle and a floorplate. After they hung for 24hrs, I placed them on a piece of aluminum foil, on the dash of my car, and left it in the sun for a week. It was like an oven, and it baked on. Like was posted prior, once it quits smelling it is done. This stuff is addicting, I am now going to paint a barrel and rings too. I have had stuff Teflon, Gunkoted, and Cerakoted, and they wear regardless and are 10x the cost. After spraying, turn can upside down and spray to clear nozzle. Then take a qtip with acetone on it, and wipe down nozzle. I have not had a nozzle clog yet.