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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Great Product

Got this to paint an AR. I like the color a lot. (That said Im color blind, however I think it is good mix of brown and green. I asked some friends who arent color blind and they agreed.) I like the finish. It goes on smooth and even, very durable and sticks to plastic (stocks, grips) just as well as it does to metal. My only complaint would be the slight shine it has. Plastic parts are flat, metal parts arent truly flat, but not bad. I ended up putting on 3 coats. From one can I painted (2) stocks, (2) grips, (1) lower, (2) uppers, (2) rails, (2) barrels, (1) scope and mount, (1) flashlight, and some other small parts. As others have said, buy extra nozzles I got the fan spray nozzles and didnt have one clog, stoppage or hiccup. Changed them out each time I painted. Follow the directions, prep work is key. (Although not in the directions, I lightly sanded metal parts with 600 grit sandpaper. I used 400 or 240 grit for plastic parts.) Disassemble and clean thoroughly. Clean and degrease and then let it sit a day or two. Degrease again. Mask off areas needed, hang parts and degrease again. Put the can in warm water for 10 minutes before shaking and using. Shake like hell and then shake some more. Once painted, I lined a large cardboard box (2x3x4) with heavy duty aluminum foil. Placed the parts in it after they were dry and put a 100W shop light over it. (Temp was around 90 in the box.) Let parts sit in there for about 72 hours, rotating them every 12 hours. Took them out and let sit for a couple more days at room temp. Great product. Much more durable than regular spray paint, (especially for lubes/solvents) and much less expensive than the alternative finishes.

Forget all negative reviews

I disagree with the instructions on here and I have painted 3 rifles with Aluma-Hyde II Magpul FDE and the color is the closest I have seen but is a shade lighter,. Here is what you do, completely strip the firearm (in my case ARs) and put latex powder free gloves on and degrease all parts very thorough then rinse with water, let parts dry then heat parts up so they are warm but not hot then dust paint on and blow dry then let set half hour then another dusting repeating the process, at coat 3 apply a medium coat completely covering parts but not too heavy for fitting issues and wait overnight preferably 24hrs, then set oven at 200F and put parts on cookie sheet and place in oven for an hour and then cool 30min then back in for an hour repeating the process 4 times then let set a week before assembling and avoid abusive use for the first month (not required just for good measure though) my only complaint is takes a long time to get rock hard and will still chip in some high wear areas.

Outstanding Product

I use the product on my air rifles that have painted surfaces. First clean your work with lacquer thinner, then apply your coats. Looks fantastic

alumahyde 2

Outstanding coverage...great firearm coating...appearance very close to chemical parker...have used both light and medium parker...and will do so again...shipping cost only downfall of a great product.

Good match to FDE and easy to use

Very good match to Magpul FDE. Not at all glossy if applied in light coats. I painted an AR15 lower and upper receivers, handguard, stock and grip with no issues on either the plastic or aluminum parts. I prepped everything with a light sanding and cleaning with acetone prior to spraying. I let it cure for 2 days, after spraying 3 light coats, with a heat lamp under it, and another week after that without touching the parts. It dried very hard and durable. The wait was the hardest part.

Magpul Gde

Used this with my latest AR pistol build. I Ann very happy with the color, it is the finish that was a little off. I sprayed flat clear on it very sparingly and was able to achieve the look I wanted. I highly recommend this to the folk HeRe that are unhappy with the glossy look.

VERY CLOSE MATCH TO MAGPUL FDE!

This is as close to magpul fde as you can get! I just painted a stripped upper and lower and I couldn't be more satisfied! I sprayed several light coats and didn't have any issues with the finish being glossy or shiny. I think if you do the proper prep work (light sanding, and degrease) you'll be very happy with the product. This is my first time using the aluma hyde so I can't comment on the durability but at this point I would definitely recommend!

It's an exact match to Magpul FDE.

I want to set the record straight about the glossy finish. If you keep on spraying layer after layer with any Alumahyde ll finish, you will eventually make it a glossy finish from having too much of it on your firearm. When using Alumahyde ll you should use the fan style nozzles when applying it. Also this stuff coats very well so there really isn't any need for spraying more than 2 to 3 coats tops on the firearm or part you are finishing with it. Also you can speed up the cure time by baking it between 185-195 degrees for 4 hours. When it reaches room temperature after you get done baking it, it will be fully cured and ready to go. Poly will even hold up at this temperature. Hope this helps you all out.

Excellent

Excellent product. Follow the instructions !! Covers nicely. Super close to Magpul's FDE. I highly recommend... Make your first coat light, wait 15 minutes and apply the second coat. I left the parts in the sun for six hours and was able to reassemble. The parts I coated were small. If you cover large parts like the butt-stock, ect., I would allow them to cure for five days before I put them to use. I will definitely use these coatings. Again, follow the instructions and make sure what you are coating is very clean and free from oil and dirt....

I like it!

I really like AH2, I've used it to refinish several synthetic shotgun stocks and a lever action that had seen better days. Some things I do when using it: 1) Degrease 2)sand blast with aluminum oxide @ 60 to 70 psi 3)Degrease again 4)I heat up the can of paint with a small space heater 5)I take a small propane torch and lightly run it length wise on the firearm about to be painted. It makes sure there is no moisture on the item. Any moisture is a no go. 6)I shake the can for a couple minutes< it should be extremely warm but not hot. 7) I then hang the part with an old coat hanger 8) I then spray next to the part to make sure the spray is even (I didnt do that one time and got a big spray of globs) then spray in quick/fast/even motions, letting the spray dry just enough to overlap your paint without it running (I didnt do that too one time and got a big nasty run that couldnt be fixed without starting over) 9) Now the hardest part, leaving it alone for 10 to 14 days. After about a week I take it off the hanger and lay it on a shelf with a large piece of cardboard on it, keeping it from touching anything hard/metal that might scratch it