OXPHO-BLUE® CREME Reviews & Ratings

I had an old spare barrel for a Model 97 Winchester that was too ugly to look at. Decided to try the OXPHO-Blue Creme on it. Followed the instructions carefully except that I used some red ScotchBrite on it for the bad discolorations. Three coats of the Oxpho-Blue and it looks great now!!

I was told that I should use the OXPHO-BLUE liquid first and then follow up with the cream. That was great advice since the finished product looked great.

If your surface is well polished and clean you will need a generous coating and let it sit for several minutes. Polish the surface well and then wipe it clean and if need be repeat until you get the depth you are looking for on your metal. I have found I needed as many as 4 or 5 applications. Clean up surface well between each application. I use 99% alcohol after I thoroughly polish the surface with a clean Paper towel and reapply the Oxpho Blueing.

Rebluing and restoring 1949 2nd addition Colt Woodsman.

Excellent product for touch-up, and for total reblue. Forgiving, and easy to work with. I highly recommend

i think this is the best blue solution there is. it is very disappointing that it takes so long to get it back in stock when it goes out of stock. i will be ordering it more often because i can not depend on brownells to get it back in stock in a timely amount of time.

I've tried them all and this product will get you a deep, bright blue finish free of blemishes. Warm the part, apply generously, let sit for a couple of minutes, wipe with a small piece of 0000 steel wool saturated with it to blend. Repeat. After two or three applications you'll have a very nice blue (rather than black) finish that holds up. Nothing I've ever tried has come close! I've been doing this for more than 50 years.

I’ve only used mass market touch up blues before but I wanted to up my game when doing a 1911 Long Slide build. For the new, virgin slide I used Oxpho Blue Creme and it is undoubtedly the finest cold blue available. I did research on the best way to do it and followed those instructions to the letter then eventually changed up a bit. I warmed the metal with a heat gun on low. After about a dozen coatings it looked great…then I did numerous more applications but I began using high heat…too hot to touch…and it made what looked good even better. I followed it up with a heavy coat of Rem Oil…what I had on hand…any good oil should do. Then I let it sit for several days in 90+ degree temperatures and it really looks spectacular. I’m under no illusions that cold blue doesn’t have the durability of traditional hot blue but Oxpho Blue Creme is awesome for its purpose. Just be patient and don’t rush things. This is a case of it being a marathon and not a sprint.

I'm building a .45 Long Slide on a Brownell's 1911 frame with a Fusion Firearms 7" slide. The slide is carbon steel and in the white. To keep cost down I wanted to try my hand at cold bluing. I read and viewed several tutorials online about cold bluing and followed the instructions and Oxpho-Blue Creme works great. Most tutorials say to give about eight coats but I went at least double that. The slide came out great...just a bit time consuming as I was being careful and didn't want to rush things. It's a dark and even blue/black. I simply gathered the materials and followed through...Acetone, Oxpho-Blue, water, 0000 steel wool. Works like a charm even for a noob at this like me. Brownell's has a winner in his product.

I really like the creme formula, stays in place and doesn't thin in spots.