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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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doesn't stay on the metal

followed instructions and let sit in my spare bathroom with a heater running. after four days i can scrape the paint off with a fingernail. great big waste of time and money.

will not work most of the time

I have ordered several cans over the years and have had good and bad results the bad being the more of the 2 with this. Its good paint but the cans clog after a minute or so of use. Then you have to purchase extra nozzles and that doesn't work either. then you have to order clean out nozzles to get the paint out of the can. Bottom line is don't buy it your wasting your time with it.

A whole week...who has time for this?

Takes an entire week to dry. If you touch the part before the week, it is very soft and leaves a smudge. If you try to move the part it will smudge. Try to touch-up the bad spot? oh gotta wait another week for that also. Need to flip the part over to spray the bottom/back side? Gotta wait another week for that. Who has time for all that? Need extra shop space just waiting on all parts to dry. Seriously Brownells: need to make a formula that is ready-to-go after 24 hours. Credit where credit is due: Brownell's did refund my money, no problems, thanks.

came with broken nozzle, wouldnt spray

TOTAL GARBAGE. came from Brownells with a bad nozzle and no matter how good the product inside is,and it is good product,its TOTALLY WORTHLESS if you cant get it out of the can. Lucky i tested it on smaller project or it would have dribbled out and caused havoc on my real reason for buying it. what a let down.

Never again

I will never order this product again. I will use Krylon/Rustoleum/anything else instead. The first thing I noticed was that it clogs up the nozzle quickly. As in during the coat while spraying. Shake the can as much as you want, you will start getting an uneven spray or no spray at all in the middle of your coat. You will have to take the nozzle off to clean it during spraying. The second can I used had a faulty nozzle from the beginning. When this happened during my second coat, I tried to gently wipe it clean, only to have the prior coat come up, after drying for 48+hours in a heated room. If you decide that you just can't live without this product, order spare nozzles by the truckload, and be prepared for frustration.

Not clear!!!!

I read the instructions and bead blasted all my parts on an ar going for a bear aluminum finish mixed the can for a very long time then sprayed my parts to find that the matte clear sprayed and dryed to a color that resembled urine from someone with a uti

Absolutely SUCKS!

All of the parts I've coated were done exactly according to directions - proper degreasing, proper temp, sprayed according to instructions etc, etc. The Alumahyde II has flaked off of corners,pin locations, scratches very easily and is basically worthless. I'd use Krylon spray paint before I'd use this trash again.

I won't use again!

I did as directed and shook the can for 5 minutes and shook during use. It still spit out small chunks. Some flattened during initial drying but now I have to wait for it to cure to see exactly what I have. Then about 2/3 the way through the can the nosel broke off for no apparent reason. The parts without chunks looks ok.

Aluma Hyde Spray Can

Well in short,don't waste time money.You'll be frustrated and wind up sending firearm in to a refinish service.What I paid for spray can tools to remove sights and cleaners etc. I could have just sent it to get professionally done to begin with and not had the aggravation.I did a Rem 870 years ago with Gunkote,and it came out decent,this stuff is difficult to work with,don't bother.

give me a break.

Not only was the color completely off, but the spray head on the can doesn't even work! What a joke! [$] for a can of spray paint that doesn't even spray! Complete waste of money, thanks for nothing brownells.