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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Dont recommend

Bought dark parkerizing gray to refinish m16a1 clone and sar-3 ak. Refinished sar-3 and allowed recommended curing time and the final color wasnt the dark gray as advertised but closer to ranger green. Also the paint felt soft,cheap, and flaked/chipped with assembly. Dont purchase this product.

Defective!

This is my second can. First was good, no problems at all. Second can was defective. I started spraying my project and almost immediately the can started shooting splotches, or big drips of paint. Thinking I hadnt shaken it enough, I re-shook and tried another part. Same problem, only this time the can clogged completely within seconds. I am now waiting for this can to be replaced (on back order), but I have plenty to keep me busy since I have to re-strip my project and start over. Brownells needs to have a serious talk with their paint supplier.

Not the color it's supposed to be!

I prepped the gun according to directions. I shook the can not once but multiple times! Room temperature was above 70 degrees. Cleared the nozzle for about 5 seconds. After application the dark grey was muted OD green! Multiple layers were applied after shaking the can vigorously for up to five minutes. Still OD green. Does not stick consistently! I will have to remove it and find another coloring method!

Not Pleased

Followed all directions and watched You tube videos. Very disappointed. Nozzle clogged very quickly and paint came out in spurts. Cleaned it 3 times and it did the same thing. This product ruined the UZI I was building. I have never been more disappointed in a product from Brownells. You should provide the correct nozzle to properly apply this product.

Junk!

Well, I have tried this several times, sanding off the old attempt and onto another attempt, I even followed the instructions and would have been nice if I knew beforehand that I would have needed more spray nozzles. I even baked this and when installing a set of Warren Tactical sights on my 1911 project for school, with the slide installed in a vise using non-marking vise jaws, polymer vise jaws, the finish came off the slide when removing the sights. I also can pick it off with my fingernail. Now I am going to either have pay more out to get this slide done the way I want it. Now it looks tacky with shiny metal showing.

not again

Not clear, turns metal darker color. After two weeks attracts dirt, handprints, etc. Colored products may be different but unlikely to use again. Make sure it's what you want as it's much harder to remove than apply.

not coyote

this color is not coyote, painted a ar-9 lower to match magpul coyote pieces on upper and lower, not even remotely close, looks like an od green , brownells needs to do some serious quality control,put disclaimers on the color, i scoured the internet looking for ANY coyote colors that matched the color of brownells coyote and nothing came close, ended up using a torch and burned this color off my lower, a raw billet looks better than having this color mismatched to the magpul coyote on this rifle, it is a good quality paint although not a match to anything, so unless you are painting everything , look for some other way to get a coyote color , definitely not this

Disappointed

I was excited about reviving this paint hoping that I finally found something that would match my Magpul furniture, but I was disappointed once I started painting and noticed it does not match. The cost was high, but I was willing to pay the price if it would match, not the case.

Magpul FDE...NOT

This Magpul FDE is about as far out of the FDE color range as you can get. Looks more like muddy ODG. Even after following shake and temperature instructions the paint would not spray consistantly. Sometimes just starts spraying blobs. It ruined my project...wound up throwing a set of Colt 6 hole handguards and the paint away! Less frustating! Brownells paint line sucks and they should stop selling it! Absolute garbage in my opinion and could not recommend to anyone. Either live with black or pay for cerkoting because this stuff it junk!

Way too green

Color is way off......unless you are a martian