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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Better Watch Out

Followed Instructions exactly, heated paint, heated weapon, shook for several minuets, ball went around the bottom of the can per instructions, weapon was absolutely clean. The can started to spatter after about 10 seconds causing a poor finish, cleaned nozzle with thinner, started to spray and the can spattered again after several minutes of shaking again. Finally finished job with plans to refinish. Put gun in 90 degree oven after 24 hours, put gun in the sun per instructions. This is the part to watch out for: If you put the firearm on any surface the paint will creep and duplicate the surface even after two (2) days of curing. I would suggest that the firearm be hung until the paint cures before the finish is allowed to touch any surface. In general I was not happy with the product and would again say, Watch Out if you use the product.

Nothing like a TAN

Product is all it's cracked up to be, minus the color. It's more of a green/gray. Nothing near a TAN or FDE. Based on the color name. I would not recommend this to anyone looking for an FDE color.

Magpul FDE? Uh, not!

Should be called GDT. Glossy Dark Tan. Almost FDE but not quite right. Doesn't match my Magpul furniture. The worse part is that it's somewhere between full blown gloss and semi-gloss. I painted a mil spec stock and it covered well, looks like it's going to be durable but, it's glossy and looks completely out of place on the rifle. I thought maybe as it cured it would flatten out a bit but all it's done after two day is get shinier. What's with that? I can deal with the slightly off color but gloss I can't deal with. Tomorrow I'll use some ScotchBrite lightly on it to see if it will dull out. If not I'll put another coat on from two feet away and see if it makes a difference. Maybe a rougher surface will make it appear flat like the name implies it should be.

This can sage green

Uhhh this can sage green not coyote. Been using this stuff for years

Seems Durable, but Terrible Applicator

Haven't really had the product on long enough to say whethe it is durable or not, but need to give warning to others. You NEED to purchase extra spray heads. My spray head clogged up with 3/4 of a can left. Was stuck waiting for replacement heads from Brownells.

"Earth Brown"?

Seems to be good paint, but DON'T go by the color of the cap on the can. The cap is a chocolate brown. The paint is like a gray/green-tan color. No similarity to the cap.

Good paint, useless nozzles

I have bought 2 cans of this. The first one I used to paint a muzzle brake and it went fine. I followed the directions on cleaning the nozzle but a few days later when I went to paint the barrel the nozzle was completely clogged. I ordered a package of the blow out nozzles but they were out of the nozzles needed for Aluma Hyde II. I needed to finish the gun for a customer so I ordered a second can but when it arrived the nozzle was already clogged, not a single drop of paint ever came out of the nozzle. To finish the project, I used the blow out nozzle to put paint into one of my airbrush gun's bottles and was able to finish. I won't be buying this product in an aerosol can again. I noticed that in comments from buyer's of the replacement nozzles that they were no more successful than the ones that came with the cans. I generally have been happy with Brownell's products but this is one that needs to go back to the drawing board.

Not really Matte

Applies great, tough smooth finish, and would look great if i was going for a semi gloss look. Reflects light like a mirror. Just wanted protection for first layers without the super shiny finish. Absolutely not matte.

Not what I expected

I bough the dark parkerizing grey, it's not at all grey, it's green. I understand that nothing replaces parkerizing but green?

Not Good

A painted a blued rifle with this product. Steel wool all the metal so that it was pretty much better and thoroughly wiped it down with acetone.

by MATTHEW C. on March 06, 2026

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