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ALUMA-HYDE® II

ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.






INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary
Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.
What Reviewers Are Saying
Application Process
70%
Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.
Durability
65%
The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.
Color Match
60%
Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.
Nozzle and Clogging Issues
55%
Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.
Value for Money
75%
Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.
Customer Photos & Videos
2
aluma hide black color
I shake very well the can and paint came out as a texture spray instead of spray paint.
2
bubbles
The good - the color is good and the finish is tough (that's where the two stars come from). The instructional video series is great. The bad - the spray texture is unpredictable. It randomly sputters and throws out bubbles and crazy chunks despite my shaking it for 5 minutes and spraying in 70 degree weather. Photo evidence attached.
2
not terrible, but it's a letdown
The coating seems to hold up well, which is a plus. The big downside however is that it does not come out evenly. I followed the directions AND Brownell's/Caleb's video on how to get the best results from this coating and it still came out looking like rhino lining, and it's THICK. This is supposedly due to inadequate mixing of the talc in the liquid, but I shook the can for a LONG time and when I thought it was enough I shook it some more. It still did not come out evenly. I even did a test spray prior and foam came out of the nozzle for a couple seconds, which should tell you how much I attempted to shake/mix the can.
2
Not Coyote
I am disappointed. When it came back in stock I ordered a can. It os a light green/grey. It is not Coyote Brown at all. I thought it was mislabeled. They sent me another, it is green does not match my Coyote or FDE equipment.
2
I followed the directions - but it went on like truck-bed liner!
I used this on a Raven MP-25 that I picked up just to work on as a fun project. I followed the directions closely and I was very surprised when the result I got was very close to a truck-bed liner but scaled down for a firearm. My surface prep was overboard. As described in the directions, I shook the can before and during the application. I also maintained the prescribed distance away from the firearm. I was expecting a smooth, uniform finish, but what I got was a very rough, textured finish. On the positive side; I baked the finish as described in the directions, and it's tough! I ended up flattening out the texture a little with some light sanding. The only things I can think of that could account for my experience are, was the can old, or was the Florida humidity too much?
2
Not ideal for AR Builds
Goes on way to thick. Don’t apply anywhere you don’t want it. Very hard to remove.
2
Terrible spray
I ordered this paint to restore an old shotgun, read the instructions followed the video on Brownell's website. Shook the can in a paint mixer for 20 min then shook in my hand for another 5 min. First spray was on paper right off the bat a stream of goo then a nice mist. Sprayed the shotgun next and was doing well then stream of goo from out of can big blob on the barrel. I cleaned the nozzle like instructed and tried again smooth at first then goo. Complete waste of time. This product is worthless wish I could return all the cans but now stuck with them. Don't buy!!
2
Matte Black
Well thought this stuff would make covering a firearm pretty simple. Shook the can in a small paint shaker for 30 minutes. First spray was a stream of black goo thank goodness I pointed it at some cardboard. Tried to spray a short barrel and halfway through the first pass another stream of black heavy spray. If you don't mind blemishes in your finishes it great. Not great for consistent quality for customers. I'm going to try the gloss black once it ever comes in and see if it works better.
2
Colors
I have used this item to paint a lot of things. The colors don't match the lid and name on the can coyote is a light green and so on. So I started using cerhecote and just spraying the right color you are expecting
2
Clogs up
Use 1 time. Now worthless. Either no propellant left or clogged up inside. Tried everything but now got a whole wasted can. Love it when it worked.