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ALUMA-HYDE® II

ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.






INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary
Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.
What Reviewers Are Saying
Application Process
70%
Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.
Durability
65%
The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.
Color Match
60%
Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.
Nozzle and Clogging Issues
55%
Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.
Value for Money
75%
Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.
Customer Photos & Videos
5
Great finish
Yes, shake til the ball rattles and shake more. I also let the can stand for one minute so any air in the paint would “lift out”. Not sure that’s a thing but it works for automotive aerosol finishes. Less splatter on the finish. It does NOT match the Aero Precision OD green but I just painted the upper and lower also. Cleaned my nozzle with lacquer thinner and compressed air. Used the blow out nozzle to flush out pick up tube. Painted one AR . Feels like half a can of paint left. Worth the money
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Works well
Its not your typical spray paint, but if you follow the instructions and videos, it works great. A darker brown, and darker green would be nice.
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Works great
Got this because the color of the gas block was different than the parkerizing on the rest of the gun. Sprayed the upper, barrel and lower. Looks brand new. Seems to be a tough coating
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Works great on polymer!
Did both a Glock frame and a p80 frame both black to a flat dark Earth. This stuff hardens up great and the baking temperature is low enough whereas it won't distort your polymer that is critical if you need to get it too hot that Glock frame will melt. This stuff cures it around 6 hours at 105. Fully cures in a week. Fully matte finish looks very factory. You can't even distinguish the factory finish from the alumahide. The Glock slide turned out great as well and I get a lot of compliments. I use the strike industries red frame kit. It's got the red pins and it looks great.
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Great !!!!
Matches better then any other fde spray paint I’ve used
5
Great match on My FDE Magpul furniture
After thoroughly testing Aluma-Hyde II in Magpul Flat Dark Earth (FDE), I can confidently say this is one of the best firearm coatings on the market—especially for those looking for chemical resistance and a color match that blends seamlessly with factory Magpul parts. **Color Match & Application:** I applied two coats of Magpul FDE over properly prepped aluminum and synthetic surfaces, following the manufacturer’s heat treatment directions (light bake in a 150F oven for 1–2 hours). The color match after curing was excellent—virtually identical to Magpul’s factory FDE. Under natural lighting and indoors, the tone is consistent and matte, with no odd shifts in hue or gloss. For anyone doing a build with Magpul furniture, this paint will blend in beautifully. **Surface Prep & Spray Quality:** Aluma-Hyde II does require careful prep for best results. I degreased, scuffed lightly with a Scotch-Brite pad, and thoroughly cleaned the surface beforehand. The Clean Out Nozzle system worked well—definitely use it before each application. It helped ensure a clean, clog-free spray and a fine, even coat with no sputtering or clumps. I let the first coat flash for about 30 minutes before applying the second. **Durability & Resistance:** The main selling point of Aluma-Hyde II is its solvent resistance, and it delivers. After a full week of curing, I exposed the finish to several aggressive bore solvents—including those that normally soften or stain other finishes. No damage, no clouding, no peeling. This makes it ideal for high-maintenance platforms like AR-15s where frequent cleaning is part of the routine. The epoxy base provides a hard, chip-resistant finish that adheres tightly to both metal and synthetic components. Curing Time & Heat Treatment: While it does dry to the touch in minutes, don’t rush it. Full cure really does take 5–7 days. The optional low-temp heat treatment helps speed the process and enhances hardness. After the heat cure and a few days of rest, the coating felt dry, solid, and resistant to fingernail scratches or edge wear. **Final Verdict:** If you’re doing a home gun coating project and want a factory-quality FDE that matches Magpul parts, Aluma-Hyde II is hard to beat. It takes a little patience with prep and curing, but the end result is a tough, chemical-resistant finish that looks great and lasts. Highly recommended for DIY gunsmiths and serious shooters alike.
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Great Product
The key to this paint working out well for you is to shake it really well (45 min.), spray close and DO NOT put on too much paint (DO NOT GET IN A HURRY)... If you rush it, the paint will run... I rushed it and had to sand it down and use OO Steel wool & Acetone... After I repainted it, it came out GREAT !!!... I definitely recommend this paint !!!...
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Work's great.
Works great and looks great as long as you follow the directions. Just painted one with Wolf Gray and parkerizing Gray.
Would you recommend this? Yes, I would recommend to a friend
5
Looking forward to it
I still haven’t received the product. You can do better than this with the shipping.
5
A different use
I used this to repaint my 30 year old 6x10 utility trailer. It took 4 cans of dark gray to give it a stealthy missed look. Along with a new set of tires and rims, my wife even liked how it came out. The Aluma-Hyde II should be much more durable than regular rattle can paint.