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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Very impressed so far...

I left my 20 year old 870 Express Magnum in a damp case for too long after a hunting trip last fall and was later dismayed to find the receiver and barrel were covered in rust. I cleaned the rust off, but a lot of the bluing came with it and I knew that corrosion was going to be an ongoing problem. I couldn't justify spending very much refinishing an old 870 Express, so the price point of Aluma-Hyde II was the primary consideration in my "refinishing decision". I took the gun apart down to a completely stripped receiver and barrel. I used CRC Brakleen in the green can (acetone, heptane isomer and carbon dioxide propellant) to degrease. It doesn't flash off quite as well as chlorinated brake cleaner, but I think it actually works better for degreasing because it stays on the metal surface longer, YMMV. I thoroughly wetted the barrel and receiver with brakleen, then wiped both down with a clean rag, then doused both heavily, allowed them to dry, then doused them again. I let them hang for about fifteen minutes before taping any threads. I put a single piece of tape on the inside of the ejection port, another over each of the dogs, I very carefully taped off the barrel extension and I placed a tiny piece of tape on the sight bead. I spent about fifteen minutes heating both parts (they were hot to the touch through nitrile gloves) with my wife's hairdryer while shaking the can of AHII in every direction possible. The ball did not roll free through the can at first, but could be "rolled" at the bottom of the can, at the middle of the can and at the top of the can before I started to spray. I had the receiver hanging with a cardboard backstop and started a light dusting, holding the can about eight or ten inches away. This is NOT stuff that you want in your lungs, YOU NEED A RESPIRATOR. I should have had goggles, the small particles in the air got around my safety glasses and really irritated my eyes. I hit it for about thirty seconds with the hairdryer and coated again. Repeat. The next coat I started to cover, per Brownell's instructions on YouTube. Keep a bright flashlight handy for this process - it helps to find spots that you've missed or only have partial coverage. I ended up puttng about five coats on the shotgun, maybe six. I plugged three nozzles during the process, I think it's a VERY GOOD IDEA to get the $3 bag of extra nozzles. When satisfied that I had full coverage (it's tricky to get the inside of the vent rib without getting runs - requires patience and a good wrist) I let them hang for about an hour (that's how long it took for the tack to go away). I'm not patient enough to leave a refinishing project alone for 30 days so, at that point I put them on a foil lined grill heated to 300 degrees and let them bake. I checked on them every ten minutes or so and concluded that 300 is too hot (smoking! I think hot baking is what produces color darkening!) so I reduced the temperature to 250. Total bake time was about two hours. I let them cool and then inspected. Finish appeared to be completely cured; you could probably get away with less bake time - maybe an hour and a half would be sufficient. NOTE: If you bake, you need to find a way to suspend your parts in the oven or grill. The aluminum foil transferred it's texture onto the paint on the side it contacted. I was able to sand and recoat immediately due to the baking, then I just put the cured side down on the foil and baked again for an hour at 250. That time it was good to go. In summation: DEGREASE until you're satisfied that there is no oil on it at all then degrease again. Spray CAREFULLY. Use a hairdryer or heat gun. You can cure however you want, but I highly recommend baking at 250 for 90 minutes. I'm very impressed with this stuff so far, time will tell how it holds up.

AWESOME

Provided you prep properly, this is the best rattle can coating out there!

good stuff

Used it on few AR barrels w/muzzle brakes to produce even matte finish throughout. Pros: Durable, heat resistant (fired 50 rounds in a minute through AR-10), measured barrel temperature afterwards at 350 degrees. The finish stayed intact, and still is after more than a year of use. When coating I was using short bursts to produce rough and very matte finish. It looks much better than just parkerizing. Cons: Not resistant to aromatic hydrocarbons solvents such as toluene, xylene. Also not resistant to acetone. These are common ingredients in some aerosol gun cleaners. Also, this is more a pro than con, it can be easily removed with methylene chloride based paint stripper (e.g.Klean-Strip), so a botched job can be redone.

ALUMA-HYDE II OD Green

I have now used this on both synthetic stocks as well as AR-15 receivers with good results. One word of warning; If you are not patient find another product or someone to do this for you! I have let this air/sun dry which worked fine and left a very dull matte finish. I have also tried oven curing after letting the part air dry for a few hours. I kept the temp around 100~125 degrees for 12-24 hours. The finish seems to be as little harder/slicker after oven curing and also darkens a bit. It is not quite as "matte" but still looks great w/no shine and has held up great. I have found that I prefer the oven cured method which greatly reduces curing time and in my opinion looks better.

Great Product

Easy to use, durable,adheres well. A friend and have both had great success with it. My only complaint is the lack of colors available. Maybe a brown with more red in it, and a lighter,greener shade of green.

It works

Used this to refinish an AKM and it looks great and is pretty tough when it's all said and done. But be shure to keep a can of brake or carb cleaner on hand to clean out the nozzle. It clogged the second I started spraying the first piece, and kept clogging every couple minutes (even seconds) after cleaning out the nozzle. Not to mention the stuff whould spatter everywhere when it started to clog up! Be shure to prep and clean surfaces to be sprayed. I media-blasted my gun first and im happy with the finished product.

Pleased

I was very happy. I Couldn't afford others that require a investment of equipment and 4 or 5 different chemicals, but this item was very affordable, and worked great. Just remember like with any paint job, the prep work is 99 percent of the whole job. I sanded and then cleaned my slide with the recomended cleaner, then applied thin even layers untill I got full coverage and then hung to dry in my wifes oven with the light bulb on for 2 days to harden. Say no to the kid in you and don't get impatient, the bottle is right, wait at least 2 days before putting back together or you will scratch it, continues to harden up to a week after, warm dry air 90 deg.s helps, thus my wifes oven. After a week this stuff is rock hard. Looks good too.

Better than expected

I agree with the positive comments posted and don't see a negative unless it might be down the road with durability and that's the reason for 4 stars. Time will tell. I had to use 2 cans because I coated my entire sg and all accessories, with a little left over for touch up later. The matte is a perfect color for me. Get the extra nozzels! The white nozzel is a fan tip and wastes too much paint.

great but not enough

this is a great item but there isn't enough. the finish is beautful but even after a week, break cleaner will take it right off. for one barrel ok 1 can is good but if you want to do a whole gun 2 cans is in order. other than that i loved this product and would recommend it.

Patience is Worth It

I used Flat Dark Earth, Coyote, and O.D. with Bulldog Industries' Extreme Digital stencil (sold by Brownells)to camo my SOCOM 16. It came out great, even though the colors were not the shades I expected. Earth Brown is more green than brown, and the Coyote is a much lighter shade than I expected. That being said, the combination is attractive and a good match for local conditions. PATIENCE IS REQUIRED! Prep the stock and make sure it is clean -- degreaser and soap and water was all I used. I let each color cure a week, the average temperature at the time being 85-95 degrees F. Order extra spray nozzles and clean-out nozzles, and throw the one that came with the can away. It WILL be clogged. Trust me. And wear rubber gloves. Hold the can at least 18 inches from your work and use light coats. Otherwise the finish will not be completely flat. Having done this once and experiencing the bugs, I expect to use this again. If you take your time it's easy and simple to produce a very good-looking and durable result.