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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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I will continue to use this product

Excellent product

10 years and going

I used this product on my SGW upper and lower 10 years ago!!!! And im just now ordering another can just to do minor touch ups around the take down pins and the brass deflector. 2000rds+ fired

Good product, hides scratches well,

Good product it hides scratches well, deeper scratches can be hid good with primer applyed first. I have only used the semi-gloss

Good Stuff

I've only used the semi-gloss but it works well & hides light scratches well

Works like a charm!

Incredibly useful product! Make sure to degrease part thoroughly, and after painting, let the item cure for at least overnight if not 3-4 days. You will continue to feel the Aluma-Hyde get harder even over a week. Using an oven to warm the part after painting helps immensely. I usually cook at 170oF for a 1/2 hour or so. I even did some dashboard parts in my old Mercedes 190E with Aluma-Hyde matt black, and they look absolutely like new now!

Easy to work with, tough once it's dry

I used this on an abused Remington 725 I bought as a project gun that had a badly scraped and scuffed trigger guard/floor plate, a part that's made from aluminum. I sanded off the old remaining finish taking it down to bare metal and polished with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. One word of warning: Let it cure fully before you recoat once it's set for a while and I mean fully, as 2-3 weeks. Otherwise, the new coat begins to dissolve the old coat and the old coat may wrinkle. My fault that I had to redo. I got in a little too much hurry. But a little rework took care of that, and it hid a small ding in the aluminum.

Brownells Aluma Hyde II Matte Clear

I went looking for a product that would protect the camo-sprayed finish on my hunting rifle. I wanted something that would protect the finish from hard cleaners. After an extensive search I found out from other gun owners that Brownells products were the best, so I decided to try Brownells Aluma Hyde II Matte Clear. To sum it up this product does what the company says it does. My rifle is now protected and the finish looks great! [...] I highly recommend Brownells products. I will use Brownells again on my next gun project.

Awesome!

Clean, degrease and spray!. Works like a charm! Even has an instruction video on Youtube. Most of all, the stuff looks great!

Great Gun Spray on Paint

Used on a Saiga 12 - I followed Instruction very closely, and cleaned gun 5 times used break cleaner and acetone.It was a very easy application and went on as promised. I used a heat gun to heat gun prior to application and tween coats. My S12 came out looking fantastic. I let it fully cure for 2 weeks. It has held up great with much use for the past 6 mos.

Good stuff

I have used this stuff in semi-gloss black, and in matte black. The semi-gloss is my favorite by far, it seems to be more resistant to showing surface scratches, and it's holding up well on a Saiga-12 conversion that I use in 3-gun, and even rolling around in the back of my truck the only finish damage I see is on the plastic handguard and pistol grip. I used the matte black on a carry gun that was suffering from the slide rusting from IWB summer carry, it's holding up well also but the matte finish surface wear much more than the semi gloss. The only down side to the finish is the cure time, I tried to wait atleast one week before I put my pistol back into the carry circle, I ended up waiting two weeks, and it still did not have a full cure. Seems the magic number for a full 100% cure is almost a month, but once it cures it's tough! make sure you get the surface prep stuff when you order, if you don't get a good clean surface it won't stick for long. Brake cleaner did not work well for me on some test pieces, but MAF cleaner was a good substitute if all else fails.