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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Works as a it should

After reading many reviews about this, I bought both sets of nozzles as a "just in case". I haven't used any of them yet. So here's the down-low that has worked for me. First, I media blast (as applicable) and clean my parts in warm water and dish soap, using an old toothbrush to get in the small areas. I DO NOT touch them after this! I use a paper towel to lay them on and a paper towel to dab them dry. Then I throw them in an old mini oven i use for this purpose and bake 'em for an hour or so to make sure it's good and dry. Afterwards, whatever you use to paint 'em so you don't touch them is up to you. I've used wire, screws, etc... Now, I shake the can while watching tv or listening to the radio for awhile to make sure it's good and mixed up and then I spray 'em. When done I turn it upside down to clear the nozzle. Now I bake it around 200-250 and go up about 100* every hour until I get to 450 (my highest Temp) for about 30 min. I have used it on a lower and an upper that didn't quite match in color as well as an old knife that needed a touch-up. It has proven fairly durable. Not Cerakote or Milspec but it'll get the job done for a good price. I recommend this stuff for a harder coat than spray paint and as a touch-up. One last thing, it is really a "MATTE" finish, which means it will have a "sheen" to it thats not quite Semi-gloss but not flat either. I say this because some have complained it's not flat. Matte is an in-between of flat and semi gloss so it will shine a little bit.

Tough finish, very satisfying results

I have used Alumahyde II (AH) on a Heritage Rough rider pistol; two WASR AK47's; and several rifle magazines. The results have been excellent. The appearance of an Alumahyde II finish is very much like parkerizing, and with similar durability. It's probably best NOT to use Alumahyde II on internal parts like the bolt. Alumahyde II is durable but will not stand up to lots of friction, it will wear away in no time. Also Alumahyde is very very thick. If it is used on internal parts that move, they are likely to stick. Although it does work nicely on magazines. I was not satisfied with the cheap looking and scratched, original finish they called "Bluing" that came on the Heritage pistol. And the WASR AK's. had been parkerized at the factory - but they still looked rather shoddy. I decided i wanted to fix the finish so I chose to use AH II.. I watched the Brownell's videos before even stripping and masking the guns; and first thing i did after I had my "plan" was to sand the scratched and uneven parkerized finish on the WASR's - (I roughed the finish, cleaned with brake cleaner and cleaned them off with compressed air). On the Heritage pistol i did strip off the old bluing down to bare metal, mostly using sand paper and a de-bluing kit solution (a waste of money if you ask me)I I did use a heat gun (maybe the most important tool for getting a good finish) as recommended. The heat gun is important not only to warm the parts, but to chase out the solvent and crud from out of the nooks and crannies! It is equally important, to heat up the can of ALumahyde itself until it to is warm enough! Alumahyde is extremely thick - and if the can is not warm it is very likely to spatter and spit over your gun and even clog up the nozzle, bringing your refinishing project to a grinding halt! For safe heating of the can I soaked it in hot water for 10 minutes, heated it up with a hair dryer (no heat gun here, didn't want any 'splosions) and shook it til my arm was numb - for over two minutes. Take care not to apply too much AH paint in one pass, or it will run! The way the gunsmith does it in the video is perfect, apply many light coats, heating with the heat gun in between coats -no more then 4 or 5 total, maximum.If you notice a run in the paint, all is not lost! Just wipe the run off quickly with a lint free cloth, and hit it with the heat gun. Even though Alumahyde II is a cold finish, I baked anyway (so I wouldn't have to leave all the parts lying around for 2 whole weeks). I set the oven for 200 degrees using an oven thermometer, removed all but one of the oven racks, attached the parts to cut off coat hanger wire (even the AK fit in the oven, with the stock removed and sideways!) and baked the parts for 4 hours. After cooling i reassembled. Even after baking, I still let it dry an additional week, the longer it dries, the harder Alumahyde gets. While probably not as hard as other baked on finishes such as Cerakote, it is still plenty hard enough! And what is more, if it gets scratched or chipped, Alumahyde is easy to touch up and usually any repair will not show! For easy retouching of small areas that have already cured, I just spray some Alumahyde into some foil and apply with a brush and this works well. In my experience, if care is taken during prep, cleaning, and heating the surface and the can of paint, good results are almost always achieved.

Great product

I used this product to refinish an AR 15, the matt black looks good, matches magpul buttstock and grip nice. I dont have equipment for the various air brush finishes, so the arosol can was my only option. This product is easy to apply, does not run, and at 12 bucks a can is very economical. Make sure you are meticulous in your prep work, get the surface clean and grease free. Shake the snot out of the can and test before apply to workpiece, if it comes out splotchy, keep shaking till it comes out smooth. I put 3 coats on within 30 minutes, then let it cure fore a few weeks. The end result seems to be quite durable, in spite of other reviews saying it can be scratched off with you fingernail. I tried and was unable to do so. It does go on thick so plan on cleaning up the holes in your reciever with appropriate drill bit, spin by hand. I would go light on the inside of your reciver and magwell. Also tape off any threaded parts, as it is to thick and you wont be able to screw parts together. Overall great product.

Works Nicely

I used this on the "furniture" of an AK-47 which had been painted over by the previous owner. It was a pain to get the paint off, but once I did, the dull black plastic was revealed to me. I went to work on finding some kind of clear spray that would leave a matte finish, and this was recommended on a gun website forum. I cleaned the plastic with some alcohol, and hung my "furniture", and I shook the can only moderately. I sprayed the parts, and noticed that there was a couple of small yellow swirls in the first coat. I let it dry and it dried clear. I did a light scuff of the first coat and shook the can vigorously the second time before spraying. I sprayed a second thin coat, let dry and it turned out good. This time, I might try the gloss for a shotgun stock I need to coat, but one thing's for sure: I'll shake the can better before applying it. It's a good product.

Great spray on finish

I degreased the parts, shook the heck out of the can, ensured the environment was between 70 and 90 degrees and simply sprayed it like spray paint. Once I was done spraying I turned the can upside down and cleared the nozzle. Dries tough as nails in about a week. If you don't like this product, you are doing it wrong.

Shake, Shake Shake!

This stuff covers well and looks great! I recently did my Remington 700 with this stuff and it turned out amazing! I read all of the reviews of how thick this stuff is and how easily the tips clog so I bought the extra tips and didn't even need them. Heres how I did it. It was a roughly 90 degree day so I left the can out in the sun for about 30 mins prior to spraying. I shook the can for a timed 5 mins before the first light dusting. After the first coat I removed the tip and put it in paint thinner and shook the can for the 10 minutes that I let the first coat flash off. I did the same for the next 3 coats and was able to get through the whole project with 1 tip. It gets close to 100 degrees in my garage so I hung all the parts in there and let them sit for a day before assembly. It was hard to the touch even with a fingernail. I assembled the gun with no issues. I would highly recommend this to anyone looking to coat something with a "no bake" solution.

great product

Read and follow directions,and it works great

Works like a charm

I read through pretty much every bad review about this product and will admit that I was a bit hesitant. But my buddy and I went ahead a bought a can to finish our 80% lowers. I roughed mine up with 100 grit sand paper and then cleaned it with brake cleaner and let it dry. I shook the snot out of the can like the instructions said and began to spray. It went on like a dream. It is in the mid 80's here today. I hung my lower in the shade on the back porch and made light passes making sure to start and stop off the lower. The first coat looks great. We will see how it holds up in the long run but for the price this can't be beat. I highly recommend this product. Just make sure to follow the directions and you'll get great results.

Best to follow directions

Can should be warmed in the sun, used a cheep lazer temp gun and got spray to 95. Also prep is very important, can't be stressed enough, how clean and oil free the part is will decide outcome of the job, you rush it and it will not turn out right, used astone as final wash and air blasted it the made sure part was warm, only had to flush out nozzle out 1 time recommend you start spray before the part to control spatter. Coating went on like a dream and I allowed it to flash off in the sun, 1 hour then baked in oven for 1 hour at 300 and shut off heat, then cool for 1 hour, stuff is amazing, chip resistance is off the charts, great product when used correctly. Five stars.

Good stuff

Used this product as an added coat of protection and for concealment purposes. Does a fine job but with rough use even when baked it will need a touch up before next hunting season. Good stuff for the money!