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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Great product

Have used this for years, will and does stand up to most normal use. I've never had a problem myself.

Amazing product!

People need to learn how to read the instructions. I used this on bare aluminum and it turned out amazing! I shook the can for 2 minutes, then shook it again! It is a thick powder like spray, goes on smooth, I thought I made a run, but with the curing it flattened out! :) For prep, I scrubbed with Eagle 1 mag wheel cleaner that etches, worked great. Let air dry for 2 hours in garage that was 100* Sprayed at night, 1 coat, then a second 30 minutes later. Let air dry over night and popped them in the oven in the morning for 3 hours at 200* Pics attached of stock and grip that were raw aluminum. Great results!

Perfect color match to BCM Wolf Gray

SBA3 in "stealth gray", BCM Gunfighter pistol grip and trigger guard in Wolf Gray, upper, lower and handguard painted with Wolf Gray Alumahyde II. About as perfect a color match as you can get between plastic and metal. Started with black anodized parts, scuffed them with Scotchbrite, cleaned heck out of them with brake cleaner, hung them, painted them with 4 coats each, left them hanging in a hot Florida steel shed for two weeks, they're cured nicely now.

Fast low-cost refresh

I used this to do a refresh of an old Universal M1 carbine. After 4 coats I cured it in the barbecue. Came out with what seems to be a tough even finish. The dark gray park color complements the rifle very nicely, that gray color having a slight tint of green. Definitely looks better and more authentic than anything that ever left the Universal factory. AH2 does like to clog the nozzle; having extras on hand is a good plan.

Amazing results, very impressed.

I did a lot of research before attempting this camouflage paint pattern. It was very easy. I did it in my garage with a makeshift paint booth. Here are the steps I took. 1. Degrease with brake cleaner 2. Red scotch bright pads to scruff the surface 3. Lightly sand with 320 grit sand paper 4. Rinse with water 5. Heat in oven to remove water and bring remaining oils if there are any. 6. Wipe down with IPA 7. Heat in oven to get parts warm 8. Paint. I sprayed about 12-15 inches from the part. 9. Bake in oven at 195F for 4 hours 10. Most important step for a great finish. I used steel wool grade 0000(after full cure). This helped blend the two colors together and to get rid of any ridges from the paint and stencils. If I didnt not do this step I think I would not like the texture. The texture was rough before this. Also, make sure to buy extra tips. It helps. The colors I used are OD green and Matte black.

Good product

Used the FDE to paint my .300 black out. Using many thin coats paint tip coved well and evenly with no drips or runs. Headed parts in oven then painted, then left in 90* sun for two days. Everything looks good . Handling parts ok but waiting for part to cure fully before hydrodiping. Really good product will buy more and already recommended to many at gun shows.

Great color for UZI

Very good color for an UZI. I shook the can 2 minutes at a time for 30 minutes. Ambient temp was 88 degrees. Almost immediately the nozzle clogged. I sprayed CRC Brakleen into a plastic cup and put the nozzle completely into the liquid. Shook it around. Put back on the can and the spray came out really good. As soon as the nozzle started to clog, put it into Brakleen. It makes a huge difference in opening up the nozzle. This color applied much smoother than I expected. Very few droplets once I cleaned the nozzle.

Follow up to color scheme

All Alumi-Hyde epoxy. Buffer tube stainless steel, upper/ lower desert tan, hand guard wolf gray.

This stuff should be more popular

I have used this on so many things. It's far better than I expected. One can lasts so long that it makes the 13 dollar price such a great deal. I even use this on plastic. I find it better than other spray paint because it dries so fast and doesn't scratch off. Pretty good color selection as I have used the OD green, Coyote, parkerizing grey, dark parkerizing grey and black. It would be nice if they carried this in even more colors.

Nice dark gray

This wolf gray will spray on looking like the Aluma-hyde stainless steel epoxy. No worries as it will darken while drying, I used Wolf Gray along with Desert Tan to color an ar15 similar to the Maxium PDX.